LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Easiest Way to Remove Rear End

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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 08:27 PM
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Question Easiest Way to Remove Rear End

I'm trying to put in a new fuel tank, but unfortunately the welded-in panhard bar relocation brackets are preventing the new tank from going in without really tweaking on the neck. The old one came out because the neck was already tweaked, and a lot of brute force was used.

I looked at a Chilton's Manual on removing the rear, and it seemed to have a bunch or stuff I'm removing that I would hope not to. I was hoping to just disconnect the driveshaft and the suspension bits and either disconnect the rear brake lines at the distribution point (time to replace the fluid anyway) and drop the whole thing with the wheels still on, or remove the rear brakes if that would be easier. Any help here. Sucks I have to do this but doesn't seem to be another way.
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 10:05 PM
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Start with Jack Stands under the frame just ahead of the lower control arm front mount and then take a hydraulic jack and put it underneath the center of the pumpkin jack it up to take stress off of it. disconnect the driveshaft, torque arm disconnect the calipers and brake lines attatched to the rearend. Unbolt the shocks and pop the springs out.
Should take 1 hour with all tools available

Most times if you just disconnect the shocks and torque arm the rear end will drop a lot more to help you move the tank into a better position

Last edited by 96lt1m6; Sep 23, 2017 at 12:03 AM.
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Old Sep 23, 2017 | 01:31 AM
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You don't have to remove the rear end to pull/install the tank, just drop it down pretty far. The shocks, sway bar links, panhard rod and support, and springs all come out. Unbolt the brake line bracket from the body and just let it droop, you don't have to break the lines at all. Just jack up the body pretty high, take off the rear wheels, and let the rear end drop almost to the ground, the LCA's and torque arm can stay connected. I like to put the front on Rhino ramps and some 3 ton stands under the body in the back. I've done it a couple times like this.
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Old Sep 24, 2017 | 12:29 AM
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Like I stated, there have have been modifications to the suspension (welded-in panhard bar relocation brackets) that cut out just enough clearance to keep the tank from going in. I've already disconnected everything and the rear is at full-droop.

Originally Posted by Spartan7
You don't have to remove the rear end to pull/install the tank, just drop it down pretty far. The shocks, sway bar links, panhard rod and support, and springs all come out. Unbolt the brake line bracket from the body and just let it droop, you don't have to break the lines at all. Just jack up the body pretty high, take off the rear wheels, and let the rear end drop almost to the ground, the LCA's and torque arm can stay connected. I like to put the front on Rhino ramps and some 3 ton stands under the body in the back. I've done it a couple times like this.
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 10:57 AM
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I pulled my entire rearend out last week in 1 hour straight up. Don't mess around, get the junk out of the way.
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 11:37 AM
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I've always disconnected everything but the LCA's and then lower it with a jack on the pumpkin. Never took out the tank though. Life is too short. Trap door FTMFW.
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 05:24 PM
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Yeah, I just ended up pulling everything. Seemed to take longer trying to figure out how to save steps. haha
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