Block Filler and Engine Temps
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 270
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Block Filler and Engine Temps Hello,
I'm trying to stabilize my EL Te-Juan block to handle up 1,000hp boosted. Aside from the obvious engine reinforcement I'm interested in filling the block 50%. Just curious if any of you that ran block filler had engine cooling problems after having the procedure done. Don't want to make a 1/4 Track star I still want to be able to take the car on trips. What are your thoughts and experiences on using this stuff?
Your fellow friend and Opti owner in arms, Heatmaker
I'm trying to stabilize my EL Te-Juan block to handle up 1,000hp boosted. Aside from the obvious engine reinforcement I'm interested in filling the block 50%. Just curious if any of you that ran block filler had engine cooling problems after having the procedure done. Don't want to make a 1/4 Track star I still want to be able to take the car on trips. What are your thoughts and experiences on using this stuff?
Your fellow friend and Opti owner in arms, Heatmaker
Last edited by Heatmaker; Oct 8, 2017 at 08:48 PM.
Hello,
I'm trying to stabilize my EL Te-Juan black to handle up 1,000hp boosted. Aside from the obvious engine reinforcement I'm interested in filling the block 50%. Just curious if any of you that ran block filler had engine cooling problems after having the procedure done. Don't want to make a 1/4 Track star I still want to be able to take the car on trips. What are your thoughts and experiences on using this stuff?
Your fellow friend and Opti owner in arms, Heatmaker
I'm trying to stabilize my EL Te-Juan black to handle up 1,000hp boosted. Aside from the obvious engine reinforcement I'm interested in filling the block 50%. Just curious if any of you that ran block filler had engine cooling problems after having the procedure done. Don't want to make a 1/4 Track star I still want to be able to take the car on trips. What are your thoughts and experiences on using this stuff?
Your fellow friend and Opti owner in arms, Heatmaker
Driving it any more than that, and you'll be a real 'heatmaker'.....
KW
You could run a half fill on the street if you had a good cooling system, some let the mix set for a long time then they will machine it. Hardblok is sets pretty quickly thou.
If I had to run a big power car on the street it would probably be an E85 car since it would run cooler than regular gas.
If I had to run a big power car on the street it would probably be an E85 car since it would run cooler than regular gas.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
I run a half fill. Coolant is always good but an Oil cooler is a must
I am only pushing 1,200 engine HP or so
I Just changed from E98 to C23. It got rid of a few issues we were having
I am only pushing 1,200 engine HP or so
I Just changed from E98 to C23. It got rid of a few issues we were having
Everything I have read about half fills on LT1s says they are fine on the street. LT1 cooling setup is great but 160 t-stat, tune for fans, and an EWP help since the EWP flow is not dependant on RPM like the stock setup so wont cause idle temp issues.
Haven't ran it yet, but my block on the stand is half filled and will be ran with a stock rad+fan with just EWP, passive oil cooler, and 160 tstat. Was assured it would be fine from others who have ran half fills on the street.
Haven't ran it yet, but my block on the stand is half filled and will be ran with a stock rad+fan with just EWP, passive oil cooler, and 160 tstat. Was assured it would be fine from others who have ran half fills on the street.
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Everything I have read about half fills on LT1s says they are fine on the street. LT1 cooling setup is great but 160 t-stat, tune for fans, and an EWP help since the EWP flow is not dependant on RPM like the stock setup so wont cause idle temp issues.
Haven't ran it yet, but my block on the stand is half filled and will be ran with a stock rad+fan with just EWP, passive oil cooler, and 160 tstat. Was assured it would be fine from others who have ran half fills on the street.
Haven't ran it yet, but my block on the stand is half filled and will be ran with a stock rad+fan with just EWP, passive oil cooler, and 160 tstat. Was assured it would be fine from others who have ran half fills on the street.
KW
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
The only problem I had (and I feel like an electric pump and a 160 'stat is a must) was that mine still moved around. Every freshen up, I put the torque plate back on, and the dial bore gauge moved around a lot. Took well over a thou to clean the cylinders each time it was down for a freshen up. You end up needing bigger pistons pretty quick.
My main caps walked around a LOT. I would certainly start with a 2 bolt block, to put your splayed steel bolt 4 bolt steel caps on. The outside main cap bolts on a factory 4 bolt block, are in the wrong place, making the main webs weaker. Cracking the main webs is easy if your making any power, and make a lot of runs. Hillbilly halftracking, as I call it, (aka 1/8th mile racing) is easier on parts. Likely why the nitrous "10.5 shootout cars" around here won't run 1/4 mile. If your track only runs 1/8th mile you can get away with more (or less). The LT4 block ain't much for making power. The LT4 block I had did not sonic test any thicker than the four 2 bolt blocks I had tested. I really like my GM Bowtie block. Nothing ever moves. Lost my reverse cooling, but it runs at least as cool as the filled LT1 blocks, only faster.
My main caps walked around a LOT. I would certainly start with a 2 bolt block, to put your splayed steel bolt 4 bolt steel caps on. The outside main cap bolts on a factory 4 bolt block, are in the wrong place, making the main webs weaker. Cracking the main webs is easy if your making any power, and make a lot of runs. Hillbilly halftracking, as I call it, (aka 1/8th mile racing) is easier on parts. Likely why the nitrous "10.5 shootout cars" around here won't run 1/4 mile. If your track only runs 1/8th mile you can get away with more (or less). The LT4 block ain't much for making power. The LT4 block I had did not sonic test any thicker than the four 2 bolt blocks I had tested. I really like my GM Bowtie block. Nothing ever moves. Lost my reverse cooling, but it runs at least as cool as the filled LT1 blocks, only faster.
. 
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2015
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https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-tech-performance/2227136-ltx-bowtie-block.html
gotta be one of these hiding in someone's garage out there somewhere but I figured if anyone had one it would have been mr ed wright😎....so you mentioned losing reverse cooling but using a gm bowtie block. Is this on your lt1 drag car ? Can you elaborate on this and maybe shed light on your head/intake choice using a race prepped block half fill
gotta be one of these hiding in someone's garage out there somewhere but I figured if anyone had one it would have been mr ed wright😎....so you mentioned losing reverse cooling but using a gm bowtie block. Is this on your lt1 drag car ? Can you elaborate on this and maybe shed light on your head/intake choice using a race prepped block half fill
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-tech-performance/2227136-ltx-bowtie-block.html
gotta be one of these hiding in someone's garage out there somewhere but I figured if anyone had one it would have been mr ed wright😎....so you mentioned losing reverse cooling but using a gm bowtie block. Is this on your lt1 drag car ? Can you elaborate on this and maybe shed light on your head/intake choice using a race prepped block half fill
gotta be one of these hiding in someone's garage out there somewhere but I figured if anyone had one it would have been mr ed wright😎....so you mentioned losing reverse cooling but using a gm bowtie block. Is this on your lt1 drag car ? Can you elaborate on this and maybe shed light on your head/intake choice using a race prepped block half fill
Only one I have heard of being built(beside Tim Allen,s) is Bradeys
In the final analysis, LT1 blocks are not really up the challenge of serious racing. Split cylinder walls are very possible on any bore over .030" unfilled. My two-bolt main cap blocks always showed signs of instability when disassembled after 7000+ RPM drag racing. Corvette four-bolt cap blocks are more stable but Ed has pointed out the potential weakness with that approach. Filling the block doesn't resolve all the flex in the cylinder walls in my experience and Ed touched on that as well. They are simply cast too thin.
There are a number of very quick cars competing in Stock and Super Stock LT1 combinations with adapted traditional bow-tie blocks in accordance with rules that were changed eight or nine years ago. They are modified to accommodate the water flow requirements of LT1 heads and they have enough meat in the cylinder walls with siamese bores to remain stable at high RPM. I suspect that they would be subject to the same limitations as any other block when exposed to boost or laughing gas. My grandpa used to say that you can break anything if you have a big enough hammer and sometimes blowers can swing a heavy sledge.
Good luck,
c
There are a number of very quick cars competing in Stock and Super Stock LT1 combinations with adapted traditional bow-tie blocks in accordance with rules that were changed eight or nine years ago. They are modified to accommodate the water flow requirements of LT1 heads and they have enough meat in the cylinder walls with siamese bores to remain stable at high RPM. I suspect that they would be subject to the same limitations as any other block when exposed to boost or laughing gas. My grandpa used to say that you can break anything if you have a big enough hammer and sometimes blowers can swing a heavy sledge.
Good luck,
c
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
Some years ago people would be so proud of their LT1's. They would boast about their track times, their setups, the dyno numbers they put down.... and now.. now it's like the LT1 is some feeble old granny that can barely make it to the mailbox to get her social security checks. What happened to the LT1 pride?
I'm trying to hold on to my LT1 got too much money and time invested in it but I swear every time I read the comments I'm like welp might as well as just order that 19260093 and part out the LT4 stuff there's no point in continuing.
But then I think... if I was an LSX guy what would be my biggest fear... and it would be an LT1 guy hitting the same numbers I am.
I'm trying to hold on to my LT1 got too much money and time invested in it but I swear every time I read the comments I'm like welp might as well as just order that 19260093 and part out the LT4 stuff there's no point in continuing.
But then I think... if I was an LSX guy what would be my biggest fear... and it would be an LT1 guy hitting the same numbers I am.
Last edited by Heatmaker; Oct 16, 2017 at 04:07 PM.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 853
Likes: 32
From: Kernersville, NC
My main caps walked around a LOT. I would certainly start with a 2 bolt block, to put your splayed steel bolt 4 bolt steel caps on. The outside main cap bolts on a factory 4 bolt block, are in the wrong place, making the main webs weaker. Cracking the main webs is easy if your making any power, and make a lot of runs. Hillbilly halftracking, as I call it, (aka 1/8th mile racing) is easier on parts. Likely why the nitrous "10.5 shootout cars" around here won't run 1/4 mile. If your track only runs 1/8th mile you can get away with more (or less). The LT4 block ain't much for making power. The LT4 block I had did not sonic test any thicker than the four 2 bolt blocks I had tested. I really like my GM Bowtie block. Nothing ever moves. Lost my reverse cooling, but it runs at least as cool as the filled LT1 blocks, only faster.
In the final analysis, LT1 blocks are not really up the challenge of serious racing. Split cylinder walls are very possible on any bore over .030" unfilled. My two-bolt main cap blocks always showed signs of instability when disassembled after 7000+ RPM drag racing. Corvette four-bolt cap blocks are more stable but Ed has pointed out the potential weakness with that approach. Filling the block doesn't resolve all the flex in the cylinder walls in my experience and Ed touched on that as well. They are simply cast too thin.
Some years ago people would be so proud of their LT1's. They would boast about their track times, their setups, the dyno numbers they put down.... and now.. now it's like the LT1 is some feeble old granny that can barely make it to the mailbox to get her social security checks. What happened to the LT1 pride?
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
Some years ago people would be so proud of their LT1's. They would boast about their track times, their setups, the dyno numbers they put down.... and now.. now it's like the LT1 is some feeble old granny that can barely make it to the mailbox to get her social security checks. What happened to the LT1 pride?
I'm trying to hold on to my LT1 got too much money and time invested in it but I swear every time I read the comments I'm like welp might as well as just order that 19260093 and part out the LT4 stuff there's no point in continuing.
But then I think... if I was an LSX guy what would be my biggest fear... and it would be an LT1 guy hitting the same numbers I am.
I'm trying to hold on to my LT1 got too much money and time invested in it but I swear every time I read the comments I'm like welp might as well as just order that 19260093 and part out the LT4 stuff there's no point in continuing.
But then I think... if I was an LSX guy what would be my biggest fear... and it would be an LT1 guy hitting the same numbers I am.
