Gains going solid roller?
To turn your own personal engine into 500-lap life engine would be useless, and it is. A solid roller can do that if you let. You don't NEED to let it, but it could. And if you did it to win a race, that is important for a career, maybe it was worth it.
As usual I am showing both sides, of course if there are two sides and I am using both you can disagree with either side and still be learning. The "left" side of graph shows short-life engines used for racing that are dismantled whether they fail or not at each race, or even during a race, etc... and on the "right" side is the ultra-long life 1,000,000 mile engine whos owner either had to do nothing with the perfect oem hydraulic lifter or apparently needed to adjust the valvetrain every 50k-(X)90k because solid roller. It gives us experimental data for statistically relevant calculations, if we can figure out some useful comparison equations.
As usual I am showing both sides, of course if there are two sides and I am using both you can disagree with either side and still be learning. The "left" side of graph shows short-life engines used for racing that are dismantled whether they fail or not at each race, or even during a race, etc... and on the "right" side is the ultra-long life 1,000,000 mile engine whos owner either had to do nothing with the perfect oem hydraulic lifter or apparently needed to adjust the valvetrain every 50k-(X)90k because solid roller. It gives us experimental data for statistically relevant calculations, if we can figure out some useful comparison equations.
Hello, I am planning my first LSx swap (personal use). Basically I've read through all the sloppy mechanics stuff and checked out quite a few build threads over the past couple years, and I am ready to start collecting parts.
First step is identifications. I took some pictures and made labels to help this go smoothly. Once I know what "I need to make sure I get and how to get it" I can move on to actually finding a donor vehicle/engine.
Attachment 591015
The first thing I noted was that the junkyard had a bunch of these, presumably 5.3's (Is it always a 5.3?) with the engine exposed like this, where I could easily pull the harness out. Is my guess accurate? That is, would the harness be cake to come out considering the condition of an engine like this? It looks like it, at first.
Attachment 591016
This picture is just to clarify terminology. Are the labels accurate? Are those the "good coils" everyone loves to use for boost? I am guessing not.
Attachment 591017
So this one is where it gets messy. I want to verify that is in fact the ECU for the engine. Also, is that the trans computer with it? And finally, it looks like the ECU harness is integrated to the fuse box. How do I deal with that? Will I need to remove the entire fuse box with the engine harness?
Attachment 591018
This is a picture of the A/C compressor I saw on the trucks. It is mounted low, and looks "small" to me. is this the smallest compressor they make for LSx engine? Also is this the same or similar location as the F-body uses? Or GTO? I wll not be using Truck accessories for my swap, only F-body and GTO items will work. But if the compressor is "small" I might be able to re-use the truck version and just move it. Or something. Thoughts?
Attachment 591019
This appears to be the OBD port inside the truck, as part of the factory chassis harness. Can I cut it out and re-wire it to the engine harness, or will I need to pull the chassis harness out, or how will I deal with this? I want to use HP tuner so I need this port I think.
Final thoughts: It looks like a GEN3 engine is the way to go (low cost and easy electronics, and no DoD), if I can find one from a truck with the 13mm header bolts and rear camshaft sensor I will take everything after I check under the valve cover and do a compression test, then grab a spare longblock if I can find it as well.
First step is identifications. I took some pictures and made labels to help this go smoothly. Once I know what "I need to make sure I get and how to get it" I can move on to actually finding a donor vehicle/engine.
Attachment 591015
The first thing I noted was that the junkyard had a bunch of these, presumably 5.3's (Is it always a 5.3?) with the engine exposed like this, where I could easily pull the harness out. Is my guess accurate? That is, would the harness be cake to come out considering the condition of an engine like this? It looks like it, at first.
Attachment 591016
This picture is just to clarify terminology. Are the labels accurate? Are those the "good coils" everyone loves to use for boost? I am guessing not.
Attachment 591017
So this one is where it gets messy. I want to verify that is in fact the ECU for the engine. Also, is that the trans computer with it? And finally, it looks like the ECU harness is integrated to the fuse box. How do I deal with that? Will I need to remove the entire fuse box with the engine harness?
Attachment 591018
This is a picture of the A/C compressor I saw on the trucks. It is mounted low, and looks "small" to me. is this the smallest compressor they make for LSx engine? Also is this the same or similar location as the F-body uses? Or GTO? I wll not be using Truck accessories for my swap, only F-body and GTO items will work. But if the compressor is "small" I might be able to re-use the truck version and just move it. Or something. Thoughts?
Attachment 591019
This appears to be the OBD port inside the truck, as part of the factory chassis harness. Can I cut it out and re-wire it to the engine harness, or will I need to pull the chassis harness out, or how will I deal with this? I want to use HP tuner so I need this port I think.
Final thoughts: It looks like a GEN3 engine is the way to go (low cost and easy electronics, and no DoD), if I can find one from a truck with the 13mm header bolts and rear camshaft sensor I will take everything after I check under the valve cover and do a compression test, then grab a spare longblock if I can find it as well.
About my post that shows me going to a junkyard with no clue what I am doing -> Then suddenly 3month later I have a running, driving, boosting LS conversion.
It was setup like this on purpose. I see now you are too stupid to realize the implication so I will rub your nose in it for being a bad dog. The implied theme here is thrice that:
1. You don't need to know anything about LS engines to initially evaluate, swap, tune, wire, and work on LS engines.
2. Detailed LS swaps including Turbos, 4l80e, and so forth can be done in a matter of months (It took me three months more or less) even by somebody with no prior knowledge, no air tools, and no lift.
Now that I've proven these two, Please keep throwing around my amazing series of events that makes me look like an incredible mechanic/electrician and gives others hope for their own swaps. Also, please stop spreading bad advice like a disease. If you keep trashing me I will simply copy/paste some of your quotes and make you look like an idiot with ur own words, tool. You have less right to be here than most and unlike most I will not be using moderators to counter your idiocy, I will be using your own brain to disembowel your mind.
Your are truly delusional lol
How many races have you won? How many trophies on your shelf? I'll admit I only have three wins but I ran upfront most races and I built my own stuff..... How about you?
I've been around racing for decades and know what it takes to win.
How many races have you won? How many trophies on your shelf? I'll admit I only have three wins but I ran upfront most races and I built my own stuff..... How about you?
I've been around racing for decades and know what it takes to win.
Last edited by LLLosingit; Nov 11, 2017 at 10:41 AM.
Not important to prove thingies on the interwebs.
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I typically run solid flat tappet and solid roller cams in the majority of my 500+ HP BBC. Setting valve lash is a breeze and rarely do I have to make adjustments to the valve-train. Keep in mind, most of the systems include stud girdles, Crower or Comp roller rocker arms, etc. These engines and components see on average, about 10,000 miles a year of street-duty, auto-crossing and quarter-mile action.
Most of my customers have me regularly check and inspect the power-plants for any anomalies and lash adjustments. With the right valve-train components, actual re-adjustments are damn near eliminated, after initial valve lash setting on engine test stand.
Most gains would be in the form of increased RPM, if all else is equal.
I typically run solid flat tappet and solid roller cams in the majority of my 500+ HP BBC. Setting valve lash is a breeze and rarely do I have to make adjustments to the valve-train. Keep in mind, most of the systems include stud girdles, Crower or Comp roller rocker arms, etc. These engines and components see on average, about 10,000 miles a year of street-duty, auto-crossing and quarter-mile action.
Most of my customers have me regularly check and inspect the power-plants for any anomalies and lash adjustments. With the right valve-train components, actual re-adjustments are damn near eliminated, after initial valve lash setting on engine test stand.
Most gains would be in the form of increased RPM, if all else is equal.
Last edited by sixt9er; Nov 13, 2017 at 10:44 PM.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 321
Likes: 88
From: Fort Wayne, IN
Thanks. That was with baby 185cc runners and heavy valves. I will make some GoPro vids of the AFR Mamo ported 210's with light 8mm valves when it gets done. Hydraulic works great but you can't match the performance of solid when it comes to aggressive high rpm combinations. No pumping loss, lighter valvetrain and the valve events are dead accurate.
Thanks. That was with baby 185cc runners and heavy valves. I will make some GoPro vids of the AFR Mamo ported 210's with light 8mm valves when it gets done. Hydraulic works great but you can't match the performance of solid when it comes to aggressive high rpm combinations. No pumping loss, lighter valvetrain and the valve events are dead accurate.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 321
Likes: 88
From: Fort Wayne, IN
That is pretty much the same change that I did last year. Same cam I have now, but I went from small ported 185cc runners and unported LT1 intake to 55cc AFR 210 with the Comp porting swapped with Nextek beehives and LE ported LT4 intake. Made a HUGE difference on the top end, thus another reason that I am considering a solid roller swap, to get even more out of the top end. I think I may go with EFI Connection 24x or 58x swap first though, for the better tuning ability, better ignition, and the higher RPM capability.
Those are the same chamber size heads Tony is doing for me. He is going to knock them down to 54cc and try to get as close to 13:1 compression with e85 as possible. Glad to hear the head change made a big difference. I figured I would be in for a noticeable difference past 5krpm.
Last edited by CamOnlyJabroni; Nov 14, 2017 at 03:34 PM.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 321
Likes: 88
From: Fort Wayne, IN
Finally got a chance to get a little quick highway roll vid, started at 3500 like in the above vid. Took off in 3rd but spun when I first took off.
https://youtu.be/GND0uil5Xzk
https://youtu.be/GND0uil5Xzk
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,802
Likes: 332
From: Wilmington, De
I know I originally started this thread a while back, however things have changed, so I’m revisiting this. Had a Manley Nextec valve spring break and dropped a valve which took out the #1 piston, bent the rod, rocker arm, and cracked the cylinder wall. So now I’m rebuilding the 383 with a new block, higher compression pistons, going from 12.4 to now 13.8:1. So now that I need new springs, lifters, and a rocker arm anyway, would the gains going for a streetable, say low lash solid roller be worth it now?
I know I originally started this thread a while back, however things have changed, so I’m revisiting this. Had a Manley Nextec valve spring break and dropped a valve which took out the #1 piston, bent the rod, rocker arm, and cracked the cylinder wall. So now I’m rebuilding the 383 with a new block, higher compression pistons, going from 12.4 to now 13.8:1. So now that I need new springs, lifters, and a rocker arm anyway, would the gains going for a streetable, say low lash solid roller be worth it now?
Did you ever get it dynoed or get some good times out of it?
I just found this thread. I'm about to be running an almost identical setup to your old one. I remember having a conversation with Lloyd about going beehive instead of doubles. He talked me out of them due to breakage issues at higher pressures.
Did you ever get it dynoed or get some good times out of it?
Did you ever get it dynoed or get some good times out of it?
I know I originally started this thread a while back, however things have changed, so I’m revisiting this. Had a Manley Nextec valve spring break and dropped a valve which took out the #1 piston, bent the rod, rocker arm, and cracked the cylinder wall. So now I’m rebuilding the 383 with a new block, higher compression pistons, going from 12.4 to now 13.8:1. So now that I need new springs, lifters, and a rocker arm anyway, would the gains going for a streetable, say low lash solid roller be worth it now?