LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

UGH! SO close!!

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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 08:29 PM
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Default UGH! SO close!!

Hey guys, I'm so close to the 12s its not even funny lol. Today during an open track day at my local strip i ran a 13.02... I'm CC503 Cam only with drag radials. I know that my stock heads are choking this cam. I'm on a budget with this weekend warrior and was wanting your guys opinion on what to do next to break 12.9. I have shorty headers, stock stall, and stock 1.5r heads. What would be the one mod that would push this car to 12s. Heads is the obvious choice, but would long tubes be a better budget choice? Better Stall? Sorry for the long post! Thanks in advanced!
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 08:41 PM
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Gears. You need gearing to complement the cam change. I think a lot of people go to a 3.73 for auto with that cam.
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 08:43 PM
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Ok, i was thinking about those as well. I was wishing I would have done them instead when i did the 3.42s lol
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 94_LT1_TransAm
Heads is the obvious choice, but would long tubes be a better budget choice? Better Stall? Sorry for the long post! Thanks in advanced!
Stall is the obvious choice. 12.5's with a different converter
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 08:58 PM
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Converter and **** can the shorties
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 09:01 PM
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Bigger stall and 1.6rr and you would be deep in the 12s
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Old Mar 19, 2018 | 09:55 AM
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From: Jackstandican
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Originally Posted by 94_LT1_TransAm
Ok, i was thinking about those as well. I was wishing I would have done them instead when i did the 3.42s lol
Nah. I'd listen to what's been posted and do a stall first. I run a manual therefore I have no business commenting on what's best for auto drivetrains.
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Old Mar 19, 2018 | 09:58 AM
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Ok cool, stall it is. Thanks guys! The drive for 12s is on lol
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Old Mar 19, 2018 | 10:09 AM
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Not just any stall, the Yank SS3600.
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 07:36 PM
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You need tweaking not a bunch of bolt-ons.

Clean your car out, remove any unnecessary crap, like the spare tire, etc.
Air up the front tires to 45lbs. Record the air in the rear tires. After a launch, does it spin? If not add a few lbs of air. You want the most amount of pressure in the tire that still gives you a good launch. Most guys take them way down, too low, and after the 60-foot mark they're driving with practically flat tires. Ever try pushing a car with low air in 2 of its tires? It help you hook up running low pressure, but also robs power the rest of the way down the track.
Foot brake it, and record the exact rpm you launch at, and write it onto each timeslip. After 5 or so runs you'll find out what your car likes best. Some cars 60-foot best coming off of an idle, while others respond better at 2000 or so. No way to know until you try it.
Bring a bag of ice with you and a towel. Lay the towel on top of the intake and set the bag of ice on top of that. The towel will soak up all of the water. It will give you a much cooler intake charge and will eliminate heat soak between runs.
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Old Mar 21, 2018 | 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by joelster
You need tweaking not a bunch of bolt-ons.

Clean your car out, remove any unnecessary crap, like the spare tire, etc.
Air up the front tires to 45lbs. Record the air in the rear tires. After a launch, does it spin? If not add a few lbs of air. You want the most amount of pressure in the tire that still gives you a good launch. Most guys take them way down, too low, and after the 60-foot mark they're driving with practically flat tires. Ever try pushing a car with low air in 2 of its tires? It help you hook up running low pressure, but also robs power the rest of the way down the track.
Foot brake it, and record the exact rpm you launch at, and write it onto each timeslip. After 5 or so runs you'll find out what your car likes best. Some cars 60-foot best coming off of an idle, while others respond better at 2000 or so. No way to know until you try it.
Bring a bag of ice with you and a towel. Lay the towel on top of the intake and set the bag of ice on top of that. The towel will soak up all of the water. It will give you a much cooler intake charge and will eliminate heat soak between runs.
This is some real good advice, with how close you are it's going to be about the details now, and getting consistent. Yes, a new converter will help out and get you in your power band. Some other things I thought of, are you letting the trans shift, or are you shifting, what are your RPM's you shift at? My brothers big block wagon picked up speed and got faster by kind of flashing the converter at the line instead of leaving on top of it and extending his shift points out from like 5500 to 6k. Every car and set up is different, it's finding what works best for you and yours that will get you the results you're after.
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Old Mar 21, 2018 | 07:52 AM
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What was your trap speed?
run in cooler weather- guaranteed 12.9 or faster
373 gear is perfect for auto
Stall can gain .5 second
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Old Mar 21, 2018 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by biketopia
This is some real good advice, with how close you are it's going to be about the details now, and getting consistent. Yes, a new converter will help out and get you in your power band. Some other things I thought of, are you letting the trans shift, or are you shifting, what are your RPM's you shift at? My brothers big block wagon picked up speed and got faster by kind of flashing the converter at the line instead of leaving on top of it and extending his shift points out from like 5500 to 6k. Every car and set up is different, it's finding what works best for you and yours that will get you the results you're after.
joelster I definitely will try that next time I go to the track, "Bring a bag of ice with you and a towel. Lay the towel on top of the intake and set the bag of ice on top of that. The towel will soak up all of the water. It will give you a much cooler intake charge and will eliminate heat soak between runs." are you only using this after runs or during? sorry for the confusion, I've seen people do this after runs but never during lol.

I will sometimes shift on my own or let the car do it on its own. the limiter is set to 6100 and it hits the limiter on the nose during shifts [right when its about to hit the limiter, if not one pop, it shifts.] I already have some weight reduction started. no sub box [while racing], back seat, passenger air bag.

Trap speed is unknown since the test n tune event didn't have the 1/4 mile mph... only et
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Old Mar 21, 2018 | 05:26 PM
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You need to bump up the shift points to at least 6300-6400 with that cam.
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Old Mar 21, 2018 | 05:54 PM
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Wouldn't that be pushing the limits on the stock bottom end?
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Old Mar 22, 2018 | 12:34 PM
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So they say, but if you don't push the limits you're stuck with a 13.0 cammed car and won't see the full benefits of that cam. That's understandable. As stated the converter will help a lot as well as the small tweaks. The exhaust from those headers back is also important.
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