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do people ever have to use a washer between the stud and guide plate?:
Not normally. If you need a longer RR stud you just get ones longer.......like the ones that came with the TF heads. You would need to get taller valve covers though
Usually this is because of longer valve stems and or for springs with installed heights above stock
Not normally. If you need a longer RR stud you just get ones longer.......like the ones that came with the TF heads. You would need to get taller valve covers though
Usually this is because of longer valve stems and or for springs with installed heights above stock
I was thinking more to give the stud some surface area since it wont have as much guide plate material to press down on if i grind the holes bigger
finally got all the rockers adjusted with new 7.250" pushrods so they look like this:
all except for one. cylinder #2 exhaust looks like this:
No matter how far left or right I move the guide plate, it only ever rubs on that spot. The only difference is where contact is made on the roller tip. So what you see is where I settled. I adjusted so the roller tip is at least making contact in the middle:
That's not the only bit of f*ckery I've been dealing with. If you look in the first pic and the next pic, I had to grind the stud holes to the point that my guide plates are now making contact with the head bolts. That's as low as I can move the guide plates and luckily my pushrods haven't been popping off the lifters any more so it looks like it might work. Also most cylinders have a rocker that isn't 100% as centered as I would like due to pushrod clearance to the head. Look at how close the pushrod gets:
Ideally I would have moved the pushrod over more but the head is in the way. So I just pressed the pushrod against the head, then moved it back as slight as I could so it wasn't touching anymore. I haven't contacted Lloyd or Trick Flow yet, the email I send is going to be detailed and thorough so I'm gonna have to set aside some time. For now this is the best I could do. Later today I'll see how it runs.
I dunno man. I have TrickFlow Genx195's and Comp ProMag's and they were pretty much bolt on and go right outta the box. TF guidelplates and all. You had the correct head-pins in the block, right?
I dunno man. I have TrickFlow Genx195's and Comp ProMag's and they were pretty much bolt on and go right outta the box. TF guidelplates and all. You had the correct head-pins in the block, right?
there were only one set of pins in the block and one set of holes in the heads.
when I first started the car, the valve train was whisper quiet. as the car warmed up a ticking noise gradually got louder. this is nothing new so all the rocker arm adjusting I did hasn't affected the ticking. I'm wondering if this is due to the fast ramp speed on the cam. might be lifter tick I keep reading about.
what IS new, now the car will sputter and miss if I give it a lot of gas. I can rev in neutral and cruise around fine but once the engine is under high load, everything goes to crap.
edit: okay I guess it's not totally new. Ever since the new cam 2 winters ago the car has done this below about 2-2500rpm. I figured it was a tuning issue and I just haven't taken the time to work it out since I never get heavy on the gas under those rpm's. Now it's happening in the mid range too. Not sure if it's the same thing or something new. I'll clean out all the connections I messed with and make sure they're tight (pretty much just the coil packs and their harnesses) then eyeball the rockers. This doesn't seem like something the valve train could cause does it? Unless I have valves that aren't opening or something?
From this side of the internet...sounds like multiple issues possibly.
Tune, 24X...both
Once the motor is at operating temp all the various metals in all the parts expand differently and sometimes a "tick" becomes audible. Could be valve train (lifter).
Ideally valve lash is done on a motor at operating temp...
went driving last night then adjusted lash immediately after shutting the engine off. most of the poly locks ended up right back to where they were. a few were different. none of the guide plates had moved or anything. also when I reconnected everything I gooped up the coil harness connectors and both ends of the spark plug wires with dielectric grease. went driving today and it was all good, must have had a spark plug boot not pushed in all the way. anyway here's some comparison videos of cold start vs nice and hot after some "spirited" driving. Mind you, the ticking is only noticeable at idle and low load cruising.
the 2nd video sounds louder "clacking" sound. Both are really noisy motor sound, the hotter motor even more
IDK what is making the "clatter" (read louder than a "tick") sound. Valve train, bottom end but form the POV of the video it sounds like valve train.
RR are not hitting anything inside valve covers, right?
i agree it's more like a clatter. the first video sounded totally quiet IRL but the second one really is that loud. I don't think it's bottom end. as far as I know the RR aren't hitting anything but I only say that because the valve covers and RR don't have any obvious marks on them.
on a side note, could my poorly aligned rockers and slightly too short pushrods have had an effect on my dyno numbers?
i agree it's more like a clatter. the first video sounded totally quiet IRL but the second one really is that loud. I don't think it's bottom end. as far as I know the RR aren't hitting anything but I only say that because the valve covers and RR don't have any obvious marks on them.
on a side note, could my poorly aligned rockers and slightly too short pushrods have had an effect on my dyno numbers?
motor does not sound right making that kind of "clatter" noise
IDK how those coils are mounted and if how they are attached to VC the RR are hitting something inside valve covers....but if there are no witness marks on RR or VC...weird. I also don't see any signs of RR hitting the spring retainers
yes poor valve train geometry will affect HP output. I suspect that amount of clatter noise is seen as knock and timing is being pulled. You have scan ability to see what timing is, knock count??
It's really hard to tell with that audio what's going on. I'd run it for a bit and pay real close attention to your PR cups, trunnions, valve tips and roller bearings on the rockers.
motor does not sound right making that kind of "clatter" noise
IDK how those coils are mounted and if how they are attached to VC the RR are hitting something inside valve covers....but if there are no witness marks on RR or VC...weird. I also don't see any signs of RR hitting the spring retainers
yes poor valve train geometry will affect HP output. I suspect that amount of clatter noise is seen as knock and timing is being pulled. You have scan ability to see what timing is, knock count??
coils are mounted with EFI Connections coil bracket. they just sit on the valve covers and the valve cover bolts go through the bracket and hold them in place. I was data logging with hptuners during my dyno session and no timing was pulled at any point.
Originally Posted by SS RRR
It's really hard to tell with that audio what's going on. I'd run it for a bit and pay real close attention to your PR cups, trunnions, valve tips and roller bearings on the rockers.
i think i need to figure out a way to run the engine with the valve covers off
i think i need to figure out a way to run the engine with the valve covers off
Take the covers off and turn the key. It'll run just fine and probably will not spray oil everywhere, either. I like to set lash on a hot, running engine. You'll have to get some longer plug leads and prop the coils up on top of the engine, but el-cheapo leads can be had for like $40
"on a side note, could my poorly aligned rockers and slightly too short pushrods have had an effect on my dyno numbers?"
Absolutely
Originally Posted by atlantadan
Take the covers off and turn the key. It'll run just fine and probably will not spray oil everywhere, either. I like to set lash on a hot, running engine. You'll have to get some longer plug leads and prop the coils up on top of the engine, but el-cheapo leads can be had for like $40
didn't think about just setting the coils on the intake and buying some cheap long wires, I'll give it a shot
Finally got around to running the engine with the valve cover off. I only did the driver's side for now since it's the easiest. I managed to rig up my old opti wires so I avoided buying anything new for this. I adjusted the rockers again, this time according to method 1 on shoebox's site for adjusting with the engine running. It didn't seem to make a difference. The rockers don't seem to be making any noise really. I think it's either coming from the pushrods tapping the guide plates, or the lifters.
And now the passenger side. I was waiting for my TorqHead alternator to show up before doing this. (On a side note, where has this thing been the last 24 years? C'mon GM.)
So far the break down is this: no noise for about a minute after cold start. Then the noise starts to appear gradually, hitting max noise level after just a few minutes. Noise is most noticeable at idle and at 1800-2200 rpm otherwise you can't really hear it. More or less engine load doesn't change anything and it sounds exactly the same on both sides.
I did some reading and it sounds like people complain of increased noise after installing cams with a fast ramp speed. Lloyd did mention that's what this cam has. So I'm pretty confident a lot of the noise is lifters. Then other people were talking about how stronger springs can slam the valves closed harder causing noise. Could I be hearing a combo of those two things?
05-11-2018, 06:24 PM
