LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Boosted LT1 runs hot

Old Oct 5, 2018 | 08:54 AM
  #21  
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Those A/F ratios at cruise is fine, doesn't matter if its NA, supercharged or turbo, the engine is at a no load condition so the pcm is going to go to stoich, the A/F is going to fluctuate some, never stay at exactly one setting like say 14.0 due to wind drag, hills ect. Like said, if it heats up at highway speeds then it points to a coolant flow. But now that you have said it already had a blown head gasket and bad radiator, maybe some gunk flowed thru the new one, have you tried flushing out the system.
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 11:29 AM
  #22  
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I don't have any of the OE plastic up front and have a 4in core blocking the rad, no issues with overheating.

I would look into the cooling system as pointed out and perhaps check for warped heads causing leaks. Did the previous owner ever look into this running hot condition?
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 01:23 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Shownomercy
I don't have any of the OE plastic up front and have a 4in core blocking the rad, no issues with overheating.

I would look into the cooling system as pointed out and perhaps check for warped heads causing leaks. Did the previous owner ever look into this running hot condition?
I don't know if the PO had or tried to address this issue but after buying the car with two blown head gaskets I have to wonder. I have replaced both head gaskets and the heads were checked and are both good. No warpage. No cracks. I am not losing coolant. I originally replaced the radiator with a new stock unit. So I have now had two new radiators. I'm going to attempt to locate the missing plastics I need and see if this helps. Appreciate all the responses from everyone and add anything else anyone comes up with. Also, holler out if you happen to have the pieces I need and would be willing to sell them. I'll keep everyone up to date.
Thank You
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 04:16 PM
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At one time I was supercharged and it would get hot at stop lights, I wedged in a 10" fan, wired up to the stock fans and no more heating issues. but I know you say yours is at speed.
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 06:26 PM
  #25  
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Thanks for the pic ACE1252. From that I was able to identify what I needed (all of it) on ebay.
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 06:48 PM
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I had a friend,, (lol) who installed shiny new pair of fans and had the same problem, they were wired backwards... So rotation was pushing air forward, it worked fine until the car got over 60 or so..
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 08:50 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead
I had a friend,, (lol) who installed shiny new pair of fans and had the same problem, they were wired backwards... So rotation was pushing air forward, it worked fine until the car got over 60 or so..
That would be a really good gotcha.
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Old Oct 8, 2018 | 01:31 PM
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Seeing as the thermostat is new as you've said, and you don't think it's the radiator/heads, I'd look into the power the EWP is getting and the fan operation.

Biggest things that help cooling IMO are the plastics that actually channel the air, a quality radiator and knowing your EWP is getting solid voltage, run it through a relay don't just direct wire it.

I built a head cam D1SC Camaro (made 630whp), left in all stock plastics, installed a Dewitts radiator, made a custom shroud with 2 12" fans for a slim install for more room for piping, Meziere pump and installed a 160*. Car still has 100% AC and the guy loves riding around in 4th at 3500rpms...he's never seen over 190* even on a 100* day...
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