LT1 383 Stroker Set Up
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Teching In
Joined: Oct 2018
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From: Dallas Texas
LT1 383 Stroker Set Up I am building a 383 from my 95 Z28. I have had the block machined .030 over and splayed 4 bolt mains installed. I am using a Scat forged crank Wiseco forged pistons and forged 4340 I beam rods. The heads are stock LT1 ported and polished 643 cast#. I do not want to go back into the bottom end again but am hoping to add a procharger later. That being said, will i have to change pistons later to a more dished piston or is there a way to set this up now for the addition of a SC later. Later will probably be a year or two. I have not decided on a cam yet I still have to de shroud the valves and flow the heads. Grateful for any input and thanks in advance.
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If you are going SC later...than you will need to build the motor now with a cam and make the compression ratio lower than what a NA motor would have. You either build a NA motor or power adder motor. The later will not perform like a NA motor until you get the SC and then tune for it.
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your head chamber size and head gasket thickness are part of the compression factor. The lower the compression the more boost you can run. If the motor has say 11.1 you will likely need to stay around 6 psi on boost since you really don't want to go much past 12.xx on street gas motors.
fueling is another factor. Often a larger or tandem external FP is used along with larger injectors for SC over a NA build.
So basically they are 2 very different builds. I would build for what the end result is desired as you will be replacing some expensive internal parts to swap from a NA build to a SC build
fueling is another factor. Often a larger or tandem external FP is used along with larger injectors for SC over a NA build.
So basically they are 2 very different builds. I would build for what the end result is desired as you will be replacing some expensive internal parts to swap from a NA build to a SC build
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 11
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From: Dallas Texas
Ya i was looking at bigger injectors maybe 30 or 40 Lbs/Hr and if i need to i will get a bigger pump. The cam is not a big problem either if i need to change that out later its not a huge deal but the pistons are. I am going with forged but not sure if I can use 10.5:1 once I get the SC. I am lookin at about 56cc chambers once the valve de shrouding is done. I thought maybe when I get the SC I could just change heads to a larger cc chamber and leave the pistons as is.
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There are several factors that determine compression ratio. Discuss with a qualified engine builder and/or someone like Lloyd Elliot about a head/cam package tailored for SC build.
"Maybe" you can do a build where you just swap out head gasket for a thicker one and larger injectors unless your tuner can tame the larger ones for the NA use first
There may be a formula build to doing a NA build that will later be a SC. How much pistons are in/out of hole after block decking, head gasket thickness, head chamber size, injector and fueling, piston type...all have a factor in any build be it NA or power adder. Point is they are generally build specific directions so in your case building now for future SC add on may mean your NA configuration is not performance optimum....but will be when you add SC. Tune will certainly be different for either
"Maybe" you can do a build where you just swap out head gasket for a thicker one and larger injectors unless your tuner can tame the larger ones for the NA use first
There may be a formula build to doing a NA build that will later be a SC. How much pistons are in/out of hole after block decking, head gasket thickness, head chamber size, injector and fueling, piston type...all have a factor in any build be it NA or power adder. Point is they are generally build specific directions so in your case building now for future SC add on may mean your NA configuration is not performance optimum....but will be when you add SC. Tune will certainly be different for either
FWIW I have a boost ready 383 with your exact rotating assembly (except I have a cast scat crank) in my car and have been driving it n/a for 4 years now. the thing is a torque monster and really fun to drive on the street. is it the optimal n/a setup? definitely not, probably makes around 380whp where a properly setup n/a 383 should make 420+ but it will be perfect once I install the turbo kit I have sitting in boxes in my basement (hopefully this winter finally). I would say build it for boost now, get it tuned n/a and drive it until you are ready to add the super charger that way you don't have to open the motor back up a year from now.
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Or.....you can (later on) by a set of aftermarket heads (like AFR) and go with a larger combustion chamber to lower the compression ratio.
These are the additional costs you incur in order to get your build right.....when you piece-mill the build.
KW
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Unless you need this car on the road asap, I would personally wait, accumulate parts and build the FI version once.
As stated before, trying to half way things, will never ever net you a solid performer.
As stated before, trying to half way things, will never ever net you a solid performer.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 11
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From: Dallas Texas
I am just going to build it for NA since i don't have the additional funds for the SC. Not what I would consider half assing lol. Spent a ton already on having the block machined to a 4 bolt splayed mains and forged rotating assy. But no one ever said building engines was cheap. I still need to get a cam and finish the heads. Looking to get 450 to 500 HP but we will see. Thanks again for the input.