No rear breaks on my 96SS
11-16-2018, 05:26 PM
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No rear breaks on my 96SS Hello There !
Here is the story. I installed C5 Vette Front calipers on my 96SS and 2 years ago and installed stainless lines in the front and kept the stock rear breaks. During that time I pulled the rear calipers off painted them red. Installed slotted rear rotors as well. The calipers and hoses on the rear were all original. When I bleed the system I had no issues on the front. On the rear I could barely get the any movement of fluid or pedal movement when pumping and bleeding but after several attempts I was able to get clear fluid out. A few months ago when I took the car down to install the mods I decided to install stainless lines. I swapped the lines and the same issue was present. Very little bleeding on the rear. The next day i see a puddle of break fluid on the ground and i realized I had the incorrect washer gasket in there. Fixed that but now I'm unable to bleed the rear breaks completely. I when under the hood and disconnected the line from the Valve, Break Pressure modulator and that line is 100% dry. I wanted to take the unit off and open it to see if the gear driving the oil has come loose but I don't have the right wrenches to pull the other 2 lines and I just ordered them. Since that happened my car has the emergency BREAK light on. Does any one has any experience on this? Any ideas on the best way to power bleed the pressure module (after I see if the gear is loose) and then power bleed all the way to the rear?
Any advise will be welcome.
Here is the story. I installed C5 Vette Front calipers on my 96SS and 2 years ago and installed stainless lines in the front and kept the stock rear breaks. During that time I pulled the rear calipers off painted them red. Installed slotted rear rotors as well. The calipers and hoses on the rear were all original. When I bleed the system I had no issues on the front. On the rear I could barely get the any movement of fluid or pedal movement when pumping and bleeding but after several attempts I was able to get clear fluid out. A few months ago when I took the car down to install the mods I decided to install stainless lines. I swapped the lines and the same issue was present. Very little bleeding on the rear. The next day i see a puddle of break fluid on the ground and i realized I had the incorrect washer gasket in there. Fixed that but now I'm unable to bleed the rear breaks completely. I when under the hood and disconnected the line from the Valve, Break Pressure modulator and that line is 100% dry. I wanted to take the unit off and open it to see if the gear driving the oil has come loose but I don't have the right wrenches to pull the other 2 lines and I just ordered them. Since that happened my car has the emergency BREAK light on. Does any one has any experience on this? Any ideas on the best way to power bleed the pressure module (after I see if the gear is loose) and then power bleed all the way to the rear?
Any advise will be welcome.
11-18-2018, 09:34 AM
#2
Village Troll 
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More than likely your ABS module now has air in it. You can do it the backwoods way by using a Motive power bleeder, then take the car out and slam on the brakes a few times, or take your car to a shop and have them use a tool which actuates all the valves within the module to bleed it out. Also, quite possible your master cylinder needs to be taken off and bench bled.
11-18-2018, 11:37 AM
#3
TECH Addict
A good OBD2 Scanner can actuate the ABS Module (bleed) for you. But, even if you have air in the ABS module, you should still get brake fluid to flow when pumping the brakes. Do you not have fluid flow from both rear brakes, or just one side? If just one side, then check the line from the splitter to that side (on the axle IIRC). If both, then start disconnecting the brake lines from the splitter forward until you find fluid flow.
11-18-2018, 01:04 PM
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A good OBD2 Scanner can actuate the ABS Module (bleed) for you. But, even if you have air in the ABS module, you should still get brake fluid to flow when pumping the brakes. Do you not have fluid flow from both rear brakes, or just one side? If just one side, then check the line from the splitter to that side (on the axle IIRC). If both, then start disconnecting the brake lines from the splitter forward until you find fluid flow.
11-19-2018, 09:09 AM
#5
Village Troll
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As stated, get yourself a power bleeder and try to bleed fluid through the module first, then your back brakes, do the stop test and see if your module actuates. If it were me, I'd just ditch the whole thing in place of a proportioning valve. We don't need no stinking ABS!
11-19-2018, 04:54 PM
#6
TECH Addict
I'd disconnect both lines going from the master cylinder to the ABS module and make sure the fluid is getting to the ABS module first. If so, I'd replace the ABS module (a proportioning valve is a good idea like SS RRR said). If one of the lines from the master isn't feeding, check the master cylinder.