I Have an issue that I cannot figure out and I’m guessing it’s something stupid I’m overlooking but I’m stumped. I Swapped my built LT1 from a 94 auto car into a 96 Manual car. I Installed a Built T56 (Texas Speed Built It), new chromoly flywheel, New Clutch (Zoom HP700). I also installed the Tick Adjustable Master Cylinder. When everything is installed I cannot get the clutch to disengage fully.. The only thing I can visually see is the fork contacts the housing of the clutch. With the pedal adjusted to the max throw the clutch will still not fully disengage. After 3000 RPM it Redlines and clutch slips when driving. It will also slip if you dump the clutch when sitting. I have removed the transmission multiple times with no luck. I have bled the master cylinder multiple times to make sure it is bled correctly. I have replaced the clutch fork/pivot. I have removed the clutch assembly and checked for issues and reinstalled (Used ARP flywheel bolts). I have even tried shaving down the pivot 1/8 of an inch to give it more throw and still no luck. I have tried to include all the details I can but if more information is needed please let me know. Any information that could help me get this resolved would be greatly appreciated!

 

Fully engage or disengage, or both? Did you bench bleed the slave cylinder? They can be finicky. If it's not fully engaging then most likely some sort of adjustment issue. Never heard of shaving the pivot point for the clutch fork I take it?

 

sounds like a bad slave or slave isn't bled fully

 

I have bled the slave by hand and with a vacuum bleeder multiple times. i can push the push rod on the slave back in but it is very tough. I am not sure what kind of resistance I should have there? Is that normal? I am not sure if it an engagement or disengagement issue or both. I will explain it the best i can. The car will sit and idle fine without moving. When you press the clutch pedal in and shift in to gear it seems normal. But once you start driving the clutch will began to slip after take off around 3k then it will also slip if you dump the clutch and give it gas. The pivot for the fork is what i shaved down. Thank you for the help!

 

So it reads as though the clutch is not fully clamping onto the flywheel, which could be an adjustment issue. Really hard to diagnose without taking a look. Dumb question, but did you ensure the clutch was installed the right way?

 

I'm confused by your first post. Is the clutch not disengaging (releasing), or is it slipping? Or a combination of the two? If you're having slipping issues, the only way that can be related to the hydraulics is if it's somehow pushing on the fork, causing the clutch to never fully engage. Did you torque the pressure plate bolts properly?

 

[QUOTE=Spartan7;20025537. Did you torque the pressure plate bolts properly?[/QUOTE]

^^^^…...you did go 22 Ft lbs and ARE using the CORRECT PP bolt for the LT1?

but then you say the clutch slips when you hammer it and/or dump it which would indicate your clutch is not fully engaging either (so like Spartan I am confused some as it is not disengaging nor engaging). You will rapidly (read likely already) glaze that Zoom Kevlar face clutch (you never want to slip a new clutch, especially a Kevlar one if that is what you have)

Since you swapped everything including a adjustable MC (now may be adjusted way to far) and then shaved the T stud down (put a washer back under it now that you will have to trim the sides on to fit)

….did you measure the thickness of the new FW confirming it was not to "thick" pushing your stack height closer to TO bearing?