LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Ditching the Opti with LS computer

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Old 10-09-2018, 04:08 PM
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Default Ditching the Opti with LS computer

A buddy/member...95mysticta, shared this vid with me.....thought I pass it on for discussion.

Old 10-09-2018, 05:31 PM
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I always thought the way you get rid of the opti spark was to sell the car, get a 98 up f body? let someone else have those problems.


so is he still using the optispark for the ignition wires? so does this computer just plug directly in?
Old 10-09-2018, 06:05 PM
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Still uses lt1 coil and module with the optispark only used as a cap and rotor. The optical sensor is no longer used anymore! More tuning options with the 0411 LS PCM which is a problem for most of us and no longer relying on a mail order tune!

Parts needed are 0411 PCM
LS harness to pcm connector
98-02 Fbody PCM tray.
Old 10-10-2018, 08:02 AM
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Is there any info as to how he hooked it all up? The video is very light on facts...
Old 10-10-2018, 11:47 AM
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He has every step of the swap in individual videos on his page.

also has the pinout charts for a m6 car on his fb page.
Old 10-10-2018, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 95mysticta
Still uses lt1 coil and module with the optispark only used as a cap and rotor. The optical sensor is no longer used anymore! More tuning options with the 0411 LS PCM which is a problem for most of us and no longer relying on a mail order tune!

Parts needed are 0411 PCM
LS harness to pcm connector
98-02 Fbody PCM tray.
also ....
intake modified for rear distributor,
distributor from a vortec truck,
OdbII front timing cover,
crankshaft position sensor,
Correct crankshaft balancer hub,
probably more...

for all of that, I'd just as soon have a torqhead.
i guess if you are starting with the obdii lt1 you are ahead a little bit, but this still seems like more trouble than it's worth.

​​​​​​so if I get this correctly you end up with 2 distributors?



Last edited by fbody_brian; 10-12-2018 at 02:32 PM.
Old 10-10-2018, 04:43 PM
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He installed the rear distributor and as you see in the video he disconnects it and does nothing. So after all that he could have just used the opti as a cap and rotor and be done with it.

As stated in the video for 96-97 cars. If you have a 93-95 year yes you will have to change out the timing cover along with the reluctor wheel and hub. Those parts can be bought dirt cheap many people have stock piles of lt1 parts they cant give away

For us 96-97 cars the swap can be done with the purchase of a 0411 pcm with connectors and pcm tray. Harness repin isnt hard just time consuming. So for $100 bucks and my time I can now run a faster more tuner friendly pcm and delete the optical sensor. Now all you have to worry about is the icm or coil which anyone can change without having to pull the water pump.
Old 10-10-2018, 07:46 PM
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You just need to figure out the repin for us guys that have Lady-o-matics lol
Old 10-12-2018, 10:03 AM
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This tread caught my eye, since I've been considering a 24X conversion, but can't justify it due to cost, especially since I have a working setup with Jet DST. This method is WAY cheaper (411 PCM, PCM tray, and HPTuners), but I wonder, what are you giving up by using the Vortech operating system in the 411 PCM? He said it won't work with the evap and EGR systems, but performance wise, would this cripple the engine potential?
Old 10-12-2018, 02:05 PM
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Just curious, if it's not using the optical sensor from the opti, and it's not using the rear distributor, what's used for the cam sensor?
how does it know when to fire injectors?
Old 10-12-2018, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by fbody_brian
Just curious, if it's not using the optical sensor from the opti, and it's not using the rear distributor, what's used for the cam sensor?
how does it know when to fire injectors?
The crank sensor and reluctor wheel of some aftermarket company is my guess.

Without the cam sensor in the back, it will start like **** though.
Old 10-12-2018, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Shownomercy
The crank sensor and reluctor wheel of some aftermarket company is my guess.

Without the cam sensor in the back, it will start like **** though.
Yeah
I'm not sure I buy it.
there's no way for the computer to know what stroke it's on with just a crankshaft position sensor.
the pcm has a 50% chance of getting it wrong.

if it's using the 1x signal from the vortec distributor, I can see it working, but that's not what is being represented here. If it's somehow using the opti for cam position, then you are still using the opti, which is also not what is being represented here. It would not be ditching the opti at all, just upgrading the pcm.

Great if it works right, but the information here is suspect....

​​
Old 10-12-2018, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Shownomercy
The crank sensor and reluctor wheel of some aftermarket company is my guess.

Without the cam sensor in the back, it will start like **** though.
I'd suspect that too but the video shows the guy disconnecting the rear distributor and it starting the same as it did with it.
Old 10-12-2018, 04:04 PM
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Also should know it's not running a LS coil on plug tune. It's running a vortec 350 tune with a distributor. I think I might try and find myself a spare 96-97 6spd harness and give it shot over the winter.
Old 10-13-2018, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 95mysticta
I'd suspect that too but the video shows the guy disconnecting the rear distributor and it starting the same as it did with it.
Oh it will start, but he got lucky with it being mechanical where the PCM thought it would be. Next time may be a lovely extended crank and backfires
Old 01-01-2019, 05:58 PM
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I'm going to do the conversion on my 94 Z28 6 speed. I have the 24X crank reluctor, coils, harness, 411 PCM, connectors, and HP Tuners, and the coil and cam sensor harness from one of the harnesses I've got. I'm going to use the EFI connection kit they have for the conversion. The way this works is the front of the cam is where the cam reluctor is installed, and the cam sensor is installed in the front cover (where the opti drive would be), and the crank sensor is in the bottom of the front cover like on a Vortec 350. I haven't decided if I'm going to use an electric coolant pump or mechanical, but that's not a biggie to me. I think I'm going with the LT4 hot cam, but upgrade the valve train components. Currently my cam has a bad lifter I believe, so if I have to R & R the camshaft, I'll be there anyway, so the upgrade is the next logical step. The ability to tune is reason enough.
Old 01-02-2019, 09:35 AM
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TorqHead 24 x is the ONLY way to go. Bite the billet, do it once, do it right and be done with ignition for life.

The Works Kit out the door is like $1700 shipped, if you ship it to a performance shop like I did, it’s aeon s $1500 give a take a bit.
Old 01-04-2019, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by blk97z28
TorqHead 24 x is the ONLY way to go. Bite the billet, do it once, do it right and be done with ignition for life.

The Works Kit out the door is like $1700 shipped, if you ship it to a performance shop like I did, it’s aeon s $1500 give a take a bit.
If I was spending that coin, it would be a holley kit or MS gold box etc.

But, to each their own.
Old 01-06-2019, 10:32 AM
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That TorqHead is extremely tempting, but the way the crank sensor is setup with the external reluctor concerns me a little. There are several small bolts that hold the crank sensor mount and the reluctor on. The EFI connection uses the same GM crank sensor, but it's boss is machined into the timing cover like GM designed it, and the reluctor is protected from road debris since it is also behind the timing cover. The cam reluctor is machined into the cam gear, and the cam sensor boss is also machined into the cover, like a LS2 and newer. The repin of the PCM is pretty easy if you've ever done one, and I already have the red and blue connectors. I have a base tune for the PCM, a OBD II port, coils, coil harness and wires .
The TorqHead is a turn key setup too, and could be done in a couple of hours, so I'm honestly on the fence. Ease of installation, or make everything look factory GM.............first world problems!!

It will also depend on the cam and lifter condition when I find out what is making the tapping noise......




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