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I kept the back tires on the ground but if I had it to do again I would get the back tires on either rims or build the 2" x 4" block. Power tools are not necessary to remove anything but make the job easier. Also the lower you can get the k-member to the ground the more clearance you will have to pull it out from underneath the car so removing the tires is what I did. I did not remove the bolts for the engine or trans k-members until I had everything blocked up and positioned on the two 1000 lbs wheel dollies I had ratchet strapped together. I'd be happy to post up some pictures if you want them.
I kept the back tires on the ground but if I had it to do again I would get the back tires on either rims or build the 2" x 4" block. Power tools are not necessary to remove anything but make the job easier. Also the lower you can get the k-member to the ground the more clearance you will have to pull it out from underneath the car so removing the tires is what I did. I did not remove the bolts for the engine or trans k-members until I had everything blocked up and positioned on the two 1000 lbs wheel dollies I had ratchet strapped together. I'd be happy to post up some pictures if you want them.
I would love pics. What did you use to get the k member bolts out once on the dolly? It is awfully close to the ground at that point. I’d take em in a text too if you wanted
It's much easier once the tires are out of the way. Here's some pictures and hopefully they will help you. Jacked up the car on all fours to disconnect everything that needed to be removed except the k-member bolts.
Once everything was disconnected I started jacking it up little by little inches at a time. I did have to remove the front skid pad and disconnect the A/C compressor but could have been avoided if the back tires had been off the ground.
Time for the engine hoist. I'd already set up my connection point using tow straps. Once again inches at a time using the floor jacks and then the engine hoist. I suppose you could use the engine hoist to support all the weight but I didn't and don't recommend it. Once I had the car high enough I removed the hoist and positioned it on the side to help support the car in case the floor jacks and jack stands would give which would have done nothing to save the car but luckily the jacks and stands did their job.
I used two floor jacks on each side with wooden blocks and two sets of jack stands on each side. Call me paranoid but I still wasn't comfortable as it was windy the week I tackled this. Had the blocks right there loaned to me by a friend but decided not to use them as the looked to be too small for my taste. I did end up buying some tall stands for some added protection though.
Yup. Good bye savings account. I gotta say thanks to all here and previous write ups. I only made two mistakes. Stripped a brake line fitting using a flare wrench and misread directions for a guy who didn’t want to keep his freon. I wanted to keep mine but alas I removed the bolt on the back of the compressor and poof.
Ok I am stuck. I cannot get the legs to my hoist under the K member to lift it up. Tried jacking each side and installing a leg but not go. Just not enough clearance. I could try taking off the wheels on the long end I suppose....any ideas would be super. Thanks.
Nevermind, I got it. Had to turn the dolly parallel to the K-Member. Finally feeling overwhelmed today. Lots of parts lying around. Lots of gaskets to be resealed and hoping it is done right. 😳
It can get frustrating at times and that's when you should walk away. When you get into a hurry that's when bad things happen so take your time.
You got that right and that is what I did finally. Is there any part of this process anyone recommend I not do as a first timer. I have basic skills but have never done a cam, head gasket, etc. i get the concepts but I’d had to put it back in and have something amiss because I messed it up from being green.
Your not working on an LS so my experience with swapping cams on LT engines is zero. On the LT's I'm pretty sure you just have to pull the intake to gain access to the lifters unlike the LS where you must pull the heads to get to them. You will have to remove the rocker arms, pushrods, harmonic balancer, timing cover and timing chain. If it where me I'd go ahead and remove the spark plugs making it easier to turn the motor over by hand as I'd want to get my timing gears set dot-dot before removing the cam. Just be sure to bag and tag everything so they go back in the way they came out and taking pictures can help too. Set the valves using the EOIC method and once you get to zero lash just tighten another 1/4 turn and your good.
Thanks. Tagging and bagging and photos are in full swing. New cam and work to the heads are already in the works
Yes, label all bags and take lots of pictures. I'm trying to reassemble a car from 5 years ago right now... I was a little hasty with some of the parts just getting chucked into bins.
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