LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

wiring a bench LT1 cable ODB1

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Old Sep 6, 2019 | 11:41 AM
  #1  
rrwebster's Avatar
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From: Lake Wales, Florida
Angry wiring a bench LT1 cable ODB1

I've found a few schematics, I found a couple that match... I'm not getting anywhere. I am using tunercat, I have used it for years but recently it stopped working. I have a n fresh new install of the program. I have several PCM's and I had several Cars, now the only car I have is a 94 camaro that has no engine. have a fresh install of the CATS tuner, I don't currently have a functioning vehicle.

Current connections:

Blue connector:
pin 1 Ground
Pin 3 12V
pin 20 goes to ODB1 connector pin B
pin 30 Serial data

Black Connector

Pin 6 ground
pin 30 12v
pin 31 12v

ODB1 12 pin

Pin A Ground
Pin b goes to Blue Connector pin 20
Pin M serial Data (mine is orange????)

I've found conflicting info on different schematics from different sites

The Above I have used Shbox as the MASTER.


Any assistance on getting me something I can flash with again would be VERY much appriciated!
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Old Sep 6, 2019 | 12:17 PM
  #2  
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My old web site:

https://web.archive.org/web/20070222...m/techinfo.htm

(paste below)

For the ground wire, I made the first jump from D1 (Blue 1) to C32 (Gray 32), about an 8 inch piece of wire. Next, we jump from C32 to A18 (Red 18) using about 4 inches of wire. Next we loop from A18 to A2 (the adjacent pin) with a loop of about 1.5" of wire. From there, we go to the ground terminal of the power supply.

For the +12V wire, my first terminal is at B15 (Black 15). From there, I jump with about 1.5" of wire over to B31 (the adjacent pin), and from there about 1.5" of wire to B30 (right next door!), and then have about a 4 inch piece of wire jumping to D3 (Blue 3). From D3 I jump to the positive terminal of the power supply.

Now for the ALDL Interface. You need at least two wires - ground (Pin 1 on my converters), and serial data (Pin 5 on my converter, D30 (Blue 30) on the PCM. You may need to provide 12V, but most converters were shipped with port power option enabled, and all desktops should support the port power option.

(end paste)

I seem to recall that only two of the connectors are really required (blue and black?). My benchtop had 3 connectors on it though (this was many years ago)
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Old Sep 6, 2019 | 02:25 PM
  #3  
rrwebster's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Camaroholic
My old web site:

https://web.archive.org/web/20070222...m/techinfo.htm

(paste below)

For the ground wire, I made the first jump from D1 (Blue 1) to C32 (Gray 32), about an 8 inch piece of wire. Next, we jump from C32 to A18 (Red 18) using about 4 inches of wire. Next we loop from A18 to A2 (the adjacent pin) with a loop of about 1.5" of wire. From there, we go to the ground terminal of the power supply.

For the +12V wire, my first terminal is at B15 (Black 15). From there, I jump with about 1.5" of wire over to B31 (the adjacent pin), and from there about 1.5" of wire to B30 (right next door!), and then have about a 4 inch piece of wire jumping to D3 (Blue 3). From D3 I jump to the positive terminal of the power supply.

Now for the ALDL Interface. You need at least two wires - ground (Pin 1 on my converters), and serial data (Pin 5 on my converter, D30 (Blue 30) on the PCM. You may need to provide 12V, but most converters were shipped with port power option enabled, and all desktops should support the port power option.

(end paste)

I seem to recall that only two of the connectors are really required (blue and black?). My benchtop had 3 connectors on it though (this was many years ago)

would it make any difference i all the ground came together? instead of stringing? I added the ones that you had that I didn't and there was no change. However your pin 5 for Data... not sure what to do... tried with "M" tried with "5" (there is no "5") so I counted... it's confusing that the odb1 port has different color wires from car to car...

yes, most of the schematics I came across only use Black and blue.

thank you for your answers
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Old Sep 6, 2019 | 05:22 PM
  #4  
rrwebster's Avatar
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I got is it working thank you
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Old Sep 6, 2019 | 06:21 PM
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From: Waco, TX
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Sorry, just got back. The pin 5 is for the AKM, TTS, or Tunercat ALDL converter (that's the pin we used). That goes to M on the OBD1 connector. Glad you got it working.
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