Solid roller guys come in please
Solid roller guys come in please I've placed my order with Lloyd for a set of ported 21 degree Trick Flow's and I'm having him prepare them for 1.55 springs for a future solid roller. I had mentioned wanting head studs but Lloyd advised me that I'd have to remove the two inner springs on each head in order to Torque the nut for the studs because of clearance issues and then reinstall the springs after torquing.
I'm curious if any of you SR guys have run into this and if you found any ways to improvise? Lloyd said that using ARP bolts would be sufficient but I'd personally still prefer studs. If any of you guys have any insight please lmk.
Thanks, James.
I'm curious if any of you SR guys have run into this and if you found any ways to improvise? Lloyd said that using ARP bolts would be sufficient but I'd personally still prefer studs. If any of you guys have any insight please lmk.
Thanks, James.
Clearance is very tight, especially on the center head bolts. In my application, studs were not feasible so I ran ARP bolts and needed to turn down the OD of the thick washers in order to fit it between the valve springs. Also, I had to look for the thinnest wall socket I could find in order to fit it properly on the bolt head. I used Manley #221424 springs, #23649 titanium retainers, #42337 spring seats.
So you didn't actually have to remove the spring though? If I decide on studs will I have interference with the spring and the nut when I attemp putting the spring back on?
I'm positive that I did not need to remove the springs in order to drop in the head bolts on my application. Some of the washers needed to be turned down on the OD in order to clear the springs but the flange on the bolt head was fully supported. The springs I used were 1.640" OD and that exacerbated the clearance problem. I used the Manley spring "locators" rather than the "cup" because the cup added to the lateral clearance problems. The ARP head bolts needed a 1/2 socket to fit the head. I tried several different deep-wall sockets and found that a Snap-On 1/2" socket, 3/8" drive was a few thousandths thinner than any other quality tool. The prospect of splitting the side out of a socket under 70# of torque was not very appealing so I stuck with premium quality sockets and I didn't turn them down on the OD for extra clearance. I don't know what the dimensions are on the nuts for ARP studs. If they call for a 1/2" socket, you should be OK but sometimes things don't turn out exactly the way one expects.
For what it's worth, I used the bolts instead of studs because the motor was subject to tear-down on demand and I was never sure that I could pull the head off underneath the windshield cowl when using studs. A 4th gen F-body isn't the easiest car to work around.
Good luck,
c
For what it's worth, I used the bolts instead of studs because the motor was subject to tear-down on demand and I was never sure that I could pull the head off underneath the windshield cowl when using studs. A 4th gen F-body isn't the easiest car to work around.
Good luck,
c
I ran 1.55 springs. As stated, had to grind on the ARP washer on both sides. I had a thin wall socket, so it was no great shakes. It was the very first bolt I would take out when removing the heads. I wouldn't even worry about studs unless running crazy amounts of cylinder pressure with a P/A.
I do intend to spray it, I just want to feel secure in spending my dime where it counts. I'm fairly picky about what I put in and on the car and for whatever silly reason studs give me the warm fuzzy feeling we're all looking for when purchasing parts for our toys. I've never really been one to cheap out where it counts and I want what I feel like will take care of me best when I'm running the car. Thanks guys.
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Spoke with an ARP tech guy today about the issue as Lloyd recommended and the tech guy advised me to use the stud kit with 12pt nuts. I placed my order so hopefully there isn't an issue. Thanks everyone.
