Looking for Torque Build Input
So, the first real question I have is, what would you look for in a cam? This is my first GM engine build, though I've built and ported a handful of Mazda rotaries in the past, and a couple of Volvo redblocks, though those all had a very different set of priorities.
Tentatively, I'm thinking something around 12:1 or 12.5:1 static compression, if that'll help the cam choice.
Thoughts?
you can go 11;1 if you want to bump up the compression over stock some on a 383. You will want to keep your quench about 35. There are off the shelf cams like the LPE211/219 as noted but also the Crane 227 is regarded as a VERY good TQ cam for the LT1
Your B body has iron heads so swapping over to LT1 aluminum or aftermarket heads that are ported is 1/2 the power/TQ equation
You should look into Lloyd Elliott (Elliott Portworks) H/C package. He is highly regarded and one of his packages would be what you are looking for.
Agree you will need/want more gear in the Roady. 3:42, IMHO, with a 2200-2400 stall would be a great street package. What I had in my B body when it was a automatic. With the kind of power/TQ the 383 will make your stock, likely tired, 4L60E will need rebuilding with better parts or it will shiat the bed under the 383 power
With a small cam you "may" get away with the stock 24 lb injectors but 30 lb would be better. Stock TB will be fine or you could get a 52mm
Whatever cam you do get you will need a PCM tune to allow the motor to not only run/idle right but take advantage of the higher rev the cam will allow and more HP the motor will make. For the type of motor you describe a mail order will be fine. moehorsepower.com would be one source for that

you can go 11;1 if you want to bump up the compression over stock some on a 383. You will want to keep your quench about 35. There are off the shelf cams like the LPE211/219 as noted but also the Crane 227 is regarded as a VERY good TQ cam for the LT1
Your B body has iron heads so swapping over to LT1 aluminum or aftermarket heads that are ported is 1/2 the power/TQ equation
You should look into Lloyd Elliott (Elliott Portworks) H/C package. He is highly regarded and one of his packages would be what you are looking for.
Agree you will need/want more gear in the Roady. 3:42, IMHO, with a 2200-2400 stall would be a great street package. What I had in my B body when it was a automatic. With the kind of power/TQ the 383 will make your stock, likely tired, 4L60E will need rebuilding with better parts or it will shiat the bed under the 383 power
With a small cam you "may" get away with the stock 24 lb injectors but 30 lb would be better. Stock TB will be fine or you could get a 52mm
Whatever cam you do get you will need a PCM tune to allow the motor to not only run/idle right but take advantage of the higher rev the cam will allow and more HP the motor will make. For the type of motor you describe a mail order will be fine. moehorsepower.com would be one source for that
I'm going to hold off on more gear until after the engine and transmission, since there's a 4L80 hiding in the garage, behind the eternal Volvo project from Hell...
I was anticipating an injector upgrade, and the PCM tune was a given. The computer is only as good as the data it's programmed with, and adding 33 extra cubes, along with more cam and a 4L80 is just asking for trouble otherwise.
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So, the first real question I have is, what would you look for in a cam? This is my first GM engine build, though I've built and ported a handful of Mazda rotaries in the past, and a couple of Volvo redblocks, though those all had a very different set of priorities.
Tentatively, I'm thinking something around 12:1 or 12.5:1 static compression, if that'll help the cam choice.
Thoughts?
If it were my car, and I had your goals; this is what I'd do:
383ci, stock compression (about 10.5:1), fairly low duration cam, 3.42 gears, stock torque converter or aftermarket with no more than 2400 stall. Cam specs that I would go with:
220*/232*, 111* + 4* LSA, about .570"/.570" lift.
IVO = 3* …….. IVC = 37* ……. EVO = 51* ……. EVC = 1* ….. 4* Overlap.
This is a cam that will hit hard off throttle but will still carry RPMs to 6000 RPMs.
Plenty of low RPM torque means towing will be no problem....at all.
Strong revving for the occasional 'get you in trouble' highway blast.
Low overlap means it'll be streetable as hell and easy to tune.
Stockish compression means it can be tuned for any grade fuel you want (regular to premium)....with no problem.
3.42 gears for additional torque multiplication.
Low stall TC....because you won't need a higher stall, and you won't want the tranny heat generated by a higher stall TC when you're towing....especially if you're going up an incline (hill/mountain).
This is what I'd do....you do what you want.
Best of luck!
KW
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If it were my car, and I had your goals; this is what I'd do:
383ci, stock compression (about 10.5:1), fairly low duration cam, 3.42 gears, stock torque converter or aftermarket with no more than 2400 stall. Cam specs that I would go with:
220*/232*, 111* + 4* LSA, about .570"/.570" lift.
IVO = 3* …….. IVC = 37* ……. EVO = 51* ……. EVC = 1* ….. 4* Overlap.
This is a cam that will hit hard off throttle but will still carry RPMs to 6000 RPMs.
Plenty of low RPM torque means towing will be no problem....at all.
Strong revving for the occasional 'get you in trouble' highway blast.
Low overlap means it'll be streetable as hell and easy to tune.
Stockish compression means it can be tuned for any grade fuel you want (regular to premium)....with no problem.
3.42 gears for additional torque multiplication.
Low stall TC....because you won't need a higher stall, and you won't want the tranny heat generated by a higher stall TC when you're towing....especially if you're going up an incline (hill/mountain).
This is what I'd do....you do what you want.
Best of luck!
KW
The specs on your cam are very close to what I run in my Express van. With the 1.7 rockers its 218/228 @ 0.050", .578/.578, 110 LSA +4°. Makes peak HP right at 6K. With Rhoads lifters it idles and drives like the stock cam on the bottom end. The torque curve is flatter and the lifters seem to fully restore the lift and duration around 3,000-3,500 rpm. I did alot of research on how they work and modeled them on a couple of engine building software programs. I tried what I learned with the software. I currently have them set to give full lift/duration decrease on the intake valve and half on the exhaust valve. As the engine revs up the intake lobe is slower to restore than the exhaust lobe. Since they work off bleeding away pressure the cam becomes asymetrical closing both the intake and exhaust valves sooner. The Intake closing point and LSA actually change at idle as well. In Park/Neutral I pull 22 in/hg of vacuum at 650 rpm. 24 in/hg @ 2,000 rpm.
The lifters make the cam like having a cam specing 198/214 @ 0.050, .548/.563, 114lsa, +6° around idle.
Unloaded I shift at 6,200, loaded it shifts at 5,200 in Tow/Haul mode. One should be able to program the LT1 PCM for Tow/Haul using the performance mode shifting tables.
My 6" rods lower the dynamic compression ratio a bit.
Last edited by Fast355; Sep 29, 2019 at 10:36 PM.
My car makes tons of torque with this cam even under 2500 rpm. I can roll on roast my 315 rear tires in 2nd gear so the torque is great and the engine pulls great right up to 5800-6000rpm. I wouldn't go with any smaller of a cam ! If anything a step up would be nice.
I am also a torque fan. I even went with 1 5/8 headers instead of 1 3/4 headers to try and keep low end torque.
My car makes tons of torque with this cam even under 2500 rpm. I can roll on roast my 315 rear tires in 2nd gear so the torque is great and the engine pulls great right up to 5800-6000rpm. I wouldn't go with any smaller of a cam ! If anything a step up would be nice.
I am also a torque fan. I even went with 1 5/8 headers instead of 1 3/4 headers to try and keep low end torque.
recently to a Bootlegger 232/244 that is more like 236/248 with the 1.7 rockers. Ended up with 0.627" lift on both sides. The torque still comes on strong in the low-midrange with the Rhoads lifters and it makes a massive torque number with the dual plane PFI intake and thorley tri-ys. I had considered a XFI 292 rather than the Bootlegger. From the looks of the software model I am glad I choose the Bootlegger grind. Model shows about 540 ft/lbs @ 4,400 and 530 hp @ 5,700. I have the rev limit set at 6,200 rpm and shift WOT in the 6,100 rpm range. Light blue/red curves are the results of the current cam/rocker combination negating the Rhoads effect under 4,000 rpm. I am not sure why the model is showing such an extreme drop-off after peak with the 1.7 ratio rockers though. The ports had not stalled even at .700 on the flow bench. I feel in reality the torque curve with 1.7s probably still has the same curve on the top-end with a similar increase all the way to redline. With the 5.13 rear gear and the 2,800 rpm stalled 4L85E this setup hits hard. I was running 70 mph on the open highway the other day and some crap box of a BMW 328I tried to keep me from passing him. After speeding up to about 75 mph and being paced, I shoved the pedal to the floor. The trans dropped to 3rd, brought the engine a little over 4,000 rpm and I was at 100 mph and 5,500 rpm in about the distance it took to overtake said 328I. A few miles down the road, accelerating from a slow down here is this BMW again. He floors it from about 40 mph. I floored it again and put a bus length on him by 70 mph. 6,200 lbs Express van moves out with this little hotrod of a 383. It is pulling about 440-450 gms/sec through the MAF at 5,500. From lower speeds it pulls harder than my girlfriends Infiniti Q50 twin turbo 3.0L which impresses me because its a red sport 400 with 400 hp and 350 tq and very quick.
Last edited by Fast355; Jan 10, 2020 at 11:22 AM.








