LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

XS Performance, SSAutochrome, LPP headers

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Old Feb 29, 2020 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Vicious95Z28
I prefer my wires under the headers. 13 years that way and never burned the first wire yet.
Was gonna say the same thing.
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Old Feb 29, 2020 | 06:30 PM
  #22  
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None of it is heat damage except the connector, which under/over will give no better clearance right there.

The arcing at the mount isnt heat either, but fudged wire insulation i missed. Fiberglass sleeves dont help when melting plastic drips behind it...
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Old Mar 1, 2020 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Shownomercy
Was gonna say the same thing.
Do you still have the plug wire rails bolted to the block? It’s easy to route them in the stock locations doing it this way (myself included), but I’m thinking there are those who don’t have them anymore than those who do?
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Old Mar 1, 2020 | 09:48 AM
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When you say connector do you mean the boot? That pic of the boot looks like it's partially burned, so is the wire in the first pic of post 19, that white powder looks like charred silicone. Either way, I think I have thermal wrap on one wire that I ran way back in the day and I partially did that as an anti-chaff. My wires are just out of the box MSD wires accept for one that I made up with that thermal insulation. Running the wires under the headers honestly just gave me more room to route the wires out of the way of anything that could potentially damage a wire, that's why I mentioned it brotha. Just from your pics it does appear that you have heat damage.

Last edited by Vicious95Z28; Mar 1, 2020 at 09:55 AM.
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Old Mar 1, 2020 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
Do you still have the plug wire rails bolted to the block? It’s easy to route them in the stock locations doing it this way (myself included), but I’m thinking there are those who don’t have them anymore than those who do?
I don't have mine anymore man, my 8.5mm wires just didn't fit in any I'd the factory wire routing stuff anymore but I really didn't even need it. My wire lengths were really good and allowed all my wires to tuck in out of the way of everything and they're grouped close together with one another.
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Old Mar 1, 2020 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
Do you still have the plug wire rails bolted to the block? It’s easy to route them in the stock locations doing it this way (myself included), but I’m thinking there are those who don’t have them anymore than those who do?
No, never have. Coil packs are inside car now, so wires run low to firewall. Even with the BBK mids, I never burnt a wire with em running under the headers up to front.

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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 12:30 PM
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First pic of post #19 is charring on both sides of the separator thingy. Im assuming it was arcing on both sides because the damn separator itself is melting. Advertised as "well not melt fade blah blah", but Im sure that just means from residual heat....Its weird, that has to be it because none of the other separators show any signs at all of heat damage. The last picture of that post is where melted plastic had dripped down and hit the wire. It didnt stick, but I guess did enough damage to cause the arc? Or the white residue is just from being charred by the melted plastic and there was no arcing there.

The boot/connector/spark plug end of the wire is damn near touching the primary. This is cylinder 6. Even if I route underneath, its still going to be an issue , as its so close regardless which way its rotated. Im wondering if it was arcing to the bolt that holds the separator down and thats what caused it to melt?

I do not have the OE clips that were bolted to the block. Previos owners broke them. The base was still there when I did work before, but not the hinged part that snaps them shut. But also, like Vicious stated, 8.5mm dont like those very much. Easy to fudge them up, did that on my previous 96, gotta be extra mindful when snapping them closed or youll pinch the insulation, which causes them to arc. Kinda bullshit, any little nick, not even through the outer insulation, results in arcing once heated.

Im not against routing underneath, just kinda like the looks of over the top, and I can do all but 2 of them without jacking up the car. Can probably do those last 2 with a bent wrench without a jack, but dont have one yet. Going under, I would need to get a lift to properly route and tuck them neatly. I dont bend as well as I used to, and working off the ground just blows. Alot of stuff its fine, but getting up in cramped areas from underneath, while on your back, having to hold a half sit up, while twisting this way, reaching that way, then doing whatever you need while up in there....Just aint easy at 6'2", 200lbs, slipped and collapsed discs, woe is me!!!

Havent ordered the replacements yet, still contemplating on over or under. Going to pick up some other parts this weekend from some guy off the facepages. LS1 rack and shaft, front brakes and brackets, and debating whether or not to get his rear end as well.

Decision time.
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 03:07 PM
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From: Jackstandican
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Originally Posted by Shownomercy
No, never have. Coil packs are inside car now, so wires run low to firewall. Even with the BBK mids, I never burnt a wire with em running under the headers up to front.
Life is far more easier for me with them.
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by demonsmokr
First pic of post #19 is charring on both sides of the separator thingy. Im assuming it was arcing on both sides because the damn separator itself is melting. Advertised as "well not melt fade blah blah", but Im sure that just means from residual heat....Its weird, that has to be it because none of the other separators show any signs at all of heat damage. The last picture of that post is where melted plastic had dripped down and hit the wire. It didnt stick, but I guess did enough damage to cause the arc? Or the white residue is just from being charred by the melted plastic and there was no arcing there.

The boot/connector/spark plug end of the wire is damn near touching the primary. This is cylinder 6. Even if I route underneath, its still going to be an issue , as its so close regardless which way its rotated. Im wondering if it was arcing to the bolt that holds the separator down and thats what caused it to melt?

I do not have the OE clips that were bolted to the block. Previos owners broke them. The base was still there when I did work before, but not the hinged part that snaps them shut. But also, like Vicious stated, 8.5mm dont like those very much. Easy to fudge them up, did that on my previous 96, gotta be extra mindful when snapping them closed or youll pinch the insulation, which causes them to arc. Kinda bullshit, any little nick, not even through the outer insulation, results in arcing once heated.

Im not against routing underneath, just kinda like the looks of over the top, and I can do all but 2 of them without jacking up the car. Can probably do those last 2 with a bent wrench without a jack, but dont have one yet. Going under, I would need to get a lift to properly route and tuck them neatly. I dont bend as well as I used to, and working off the ground just blows. Alot of stuff its fine, but getting up in cramped areas from underneath, while on your back, having to hold a half sit up, while twisting this way, reaching that way, then doing whatever you need while up in there....Just aint easy at 6'2", 200lbs, slipped and collapsed discs, woe is me!!!

Havent ordered the replacements yet, still contemplating on over or under. Going to pick up some other parts this weekend from some guy off the facepages. LS1 rack and shaft, front brakes and brackets, and debating whether or not to get his rear end as well.

Decision time.
So, I just looked at my car, I can wrap my fingers all the way around the #6 primary tube and not touch the plug boot, my ends are the 90* Super Conducter ends. This is also with TFS 21* heads as well. I'm not sure how much difference there may be in the plug position between these and the stock heads but even with the stock heads I never had a problem. Looking at the #4 & 6 tubes right side by side Kooks actually angled #6 upwards a bit so there's plenty of room there.

I wanted to think that you can get ceramic plug boots or something but I've honestly never tried those. Another thing is that from the factory GM had metal covers over the plug boots.

Depending on the style of the boot you use maybe you can find some of these and slip them over your boots. You can use a little bit of header wrap there on the close tubes too keep from burning up plug wires as well. I think you can even get short reach plugs so you still have options brotha.

Last edited by Vicious95Z28; Mar 3, 2020 at 05:44 PM.
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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 07:54 AM
  #30  
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Been busy. Havent messed with it again yet. New wires should show up today, but Im working late. So will be tomorrow when I get back to it. Do those metal covers slip over MSD plug ends? I dont have mine anymore, but dont mind getting new ones. This car didnt have them at all when I got it. My other 96 did, but I want to say I tossed them because they didnt fit. But that was 5 or 6 years ago now.

http://www.taylorvertex.com/product-...=220066&sID=76

This is what I found with a quick search, still looking. Didnt see anything on MSD's site, but I wasnt looking for these when I was there. Ill poke around some more. I gotta get under and see whats going on with #6, I could be wrong, but I dont think theres room regardless which way it turns. But, this time, I did all the wires from up top, only a few plugs from below. So I didnt really take a proper look when I was did it. Tomorrow, Ill see whats going on. Got the roll your own kit, try to make'em better. Might even just wrap the top of each primary. That would pretty much solve that issue altogether. As well as use the fiber sleeves I already have.
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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by demonsmokr
Been busy. Havent messed with it again yet. New wires should show up today, but Im working late. So will be tomorrow when I get back to it. Do those metal covers slip over MSD plug ends? I dont have mine anymore, but dont mind getting new ones. This car didnt have them at all when I got it. My other 96 did, but I want to say I tossed them because they didnt fit. But that was 5 or 6 years ago now.

http://www.taylorvertex.com/product-...=220066&sID=76

This is what I found with a quick search, still looking. Didnt see anything on MSD's site, but I wasnt looking for these when I was there. Ill poke around some more. I gotta get under and see whats going on with #6, I could be wrong, but I dont think theres room regardless which way it turns. But, this time, I did all the wires from up top, only a few plugs from below. So I didnt really take a proper look when I was did it. Tomorrow, Ill see whats going on. Got the roll your own kit, try to make'em better. Might even just wrap the top of each primary. That would pretty much solve that issue altogether. As well as use the fiber sleeves I already have.
Hey man, I can check a little later but they might work with a little persuasion. My MSD boots are kinda thick so it'll likely be a tight fit. I never used mine and could only find this one so I honestly probably tossed them along with the old wires.
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Old Mar 10, 2020 | 10:04 PM
  #32  
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Maybe the third dipstick tube will be the charm...

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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 09:23 AM
  #33  
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Finally!!!!!!

I caved and towed firechicken to my buddy"s shop. Got it on the lift, loosened passenger header, damn dipstick tube literally fell right in.

Then, drove it around, still had a miss. Those wires I got from the guy here, were knicked alll over the place. He has a really dark bay, and was able to see the wires arcing. So, swapped all wires, got the MSD roll your own kit, got 10mm wire holders, wrapped wires with few wraps of electrical tape. Today, im wrapping the top of the primaries, not much, just enough to prevent wires from ever getting burned.

Im ready to swap in a BMW v8 after all this nonsense.
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