Stock LT1 cam options
Yes, the converter keeps the engine in its power bang by keeping the rpm higher so yes essentially it helps with shift recovery as well as launch and low speed torque transfer.
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 992
Likes: 173
From: Euless, TX
For those worried about losing "low-end" with a F-car cam and a S10 converter. DON'T! I had a F-car LT1 cam with 1.6 roller rockers in a Vortec 350 in a 99 2wd Suburban with a G80 3.73 and a 4.3 S10 converter. Ported lower intake, Volant CAI, long tube headers, dual 2.25" exhaust with a H-pipe. Tuned the black box with HP tuners. It would haze the tires most of the way through 1st gear. 0-80 mph it was a monster for what it was. Ran a 9.10 @ 76 mph 1/8 mile at ~5,500 lbs. It would lug down to 1,000 rpm smoothly in overdrive with the converter locked pulling hills around town.
I also had a 96 LT4 cam in my Express van with 1.6 rockers, shorty headers and a 4.3 S10 converter. It pulled hills in OD better than it did with the stock cam and exhaust manifolds.
I also had a 96 LT4 cam in my Express van with 1.6 rockers, shorty headers and a 4.3 S10 converter. It pulled hills in OD better than it did with the stock cam and exhaust manifolds.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
From: Capital region, NY
Well I ended up getting the engine in the car and running. BUT my luck struck again and I have lower oil pressure and what sounds like a main bearing knock. It only really knocks after you rev it and the rpms are like 1,200 or so. It's around 40psi cold and drops to like 5-10psi once warmed up idling. Rev the car and the pressure comes back up to around 40. That is using 10w-40 as I wanted a thicker oil to try after using 5w-30 and hearing the knock. I was thinking about jacking the engine up to pull the pan and have a look at the mains. I have heard a rod knock before and this sounds like a main bearing. Much deeper knock than a rod knock. Of course there isn't much I can do if I find a bad main bearing and journal.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
From: Capital region, NY
Another update. Ended up finding another LT1 short block and swapping all the parts from the last engine onto this engine. She run runs and so far drives great.
One weird issue, when I first started it the idle was very high, like 1,800 rpms. It slowly came down to 1,600 then stayed there. I then tried the shbox sites reset of the IAC which brought the idle down to 1,400. Then I unplugged a vacuum hose to see if I could get the pcm to firce the IAC closed more and I got the idle to come down to 1k which then ended up at 800-900. I capped the vacuum port and the car idles ok now. I have a code for the IAC and the engine revs being too high per the IAC position. This IAC worked fine with the last engine I used. I sprayed the engine all over looking for vacuum leaks and got nothing. IAC randomly died? All I did was pull the intake off the bad block and put it on this motor. I didn't unhook the TB or anything. Just seems weird that the IAC could be fine then only a few days later be dead or dying.
One weird issue, when I first started it the idle was very high, like 1,800 rpms. It slowly came down to 1,600 then stayed there. I then tried the shbox sites reset of the IAC which brought the idle down to 1,400. Then I unplugged a vacuum hose to see if I could get the pcm to firce the IAC closed more and I got the idle to come down to 1k which then ended up at 800-900. I capped the vacuum port and the car idles ok now. I have a code for the IAC and the engine revs being too high per the IAC position. This IAC worked fine with the last engine I used. I sprayed the engine all over looking for vacuum leaks and got nothing. IAC randomly died? All I did was pull the intake off the bad block and put it on this motor. I didn't unhook the TB or anything. Just seems weird that the IAC could be fine then only a few days later be dead or dying.
