Stock headed & stock cam + boost
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 301
Likes: 5
From: Miami Beach, Florida
Stock headed & stock cam + boost May sound like a pointless build but with aftermarket forged rods & pistons, stock heads, stock cam, stock computer; how much power you think is possible?
buddy has 2 76s & an pt 88/91.
buddy has 2 76s & an pt 88/91.
It's not pointless to use stock heads or cam if your goal is a nice driving car. It will make as much power as you want with boost. The boost level will determine the power.
I was going to use the stock heads until I came across a good set of trick flows for a great deal. If your going to go all the way to getting forged rods and pistons into it, I'd at least spec a cam and toss it in while your at it. Your build though.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 301
Likes: 5
From: Miami Beach, Florida
So you'd still retain stock CR? If so, not much boost. Those with completely stock engines were usually blowing out ring lands after 7psi. Because you're going the forged route you may be able to up it a little bit. That's one thing about a power adder, you want reliability your best course of action is on a dyno with a wideband. Also, a good clutch to handle the torque is a must. I'd go with a Star Spec Stage 3+. Pricey, but will handle what you throw at it without going the $1000+ McCleod twin disc option.
Those on 7psi on the stock engine were right around the 400rwhp range.
If you haven't already I'd do away with the rods unless bigger plans are in the future. LT1 rods are plenty durable for what you want to do.
Those on 7psi on the stock engine were right around the 400rwhp range.
If you haven't already I'd do away with the rods unless bigger plans are in the future. LT1 rods are plenty durable for what you want to do.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 301
Likes: 5
From: Miami Beach, Florida
So you'd still retain stock CR? If so, not much boost. Those with completely stock engines were usually blowing out ring lands after 7psi. Because you're going the forged route you may be able to up it a little bit. That's one thing about a power adder, you want reliability your best course of action is on a dyno with a wideband. Also, a good clutch to handle the torque is a must. I'd go with a Star Spec Stage 3+. Pricey, but will handle what you throw at it without going the $1000+ McCleod twin disc option.
Those on 7psi on the stock engine were right around the 400rwhp range.
If you haven't already I'd do away with the rods unless bigger plans are in the future. LT1 rods are plenty durable for what you want to do.
Those on 7psi on the stock engine were right around the 400rwhp range.
If you haven't already I'd do away with the rods unless bigger plans are in the future. LT1 rods are plenty durable for what you want to do.
I didn't hear anything about crank- hell of a balancing act (literally) with forged rods and pistons and stock iron crank. Assuming "aftermarket forged rods and pistons" you'd opt for something like a 12-18cc dish? If you're serious and the power adder is free or cheap from a buddy with turbos laying around, why not get a forged rotating assembly and a blower cam? Stock heads will limit you to a frustratingly low amount of boost when you hit the flow limit, but you'd be positioned to move past that when the right heads are in the budget. Check your deck height, you might be able find a forged kit with pin height .010" - .015" higher than stock 1.56" and fix the loose quench you have now. That may be irrelevant anyway, I don't see that Scat makes a forged crank 4.00 bore kit, and for less than $2300 at that. Engine would have to come out unless you wanted to chance a cast crank/ Eagle or Scat 9000 series cast crank/ forged rods & pistons kit. Scat starts at 4.030" bore...
Secure the turbo while your buddy is feeling generous, gather everything else to do it right with proper prep and machine work.
Secure the turbo while your buddy is feeling generous, gather everything else to do it right with proper prep and machine work.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 301
Likes: 5
From: Miami Beach, Florida
I didn't hear anything about crank- hell of a balancing act (literally) with forged rods and pistons and stock iron crank. Assuming "aftermarket forged rods and pistons" you'd opt for something like a 12-18cc dish? If you're serious and the power adder is free or cheap from a buddy with turbos laying around, why not get a forged rotating assembly and a blower cam? Stock heads will limit you to a frustratingly low amount of boost when you hit the flow limit, but you'd be positioned to move past that when the right heads are in the budget. Check your deck height, you might be able find a forged kit with pin height .010" - .015" higher than stock 1.56" and fix the loose quench you have now. That may be irrelevant anyway, I don't see that Scat makes a forged crank 4.00 bore kit, and for less than $2300 at that. Engine would have to come out unless you wanted to chance a cast crank/ Eagle or Scat 9000 series cast crank/ forged rods & pistons kit. Scat starts at 4.030" bore...
Secure the turbo while your buddy is feeling generous, gather everything else to do it right with proper prep and machine work.
Secure the turbo while your buddy is feeling generous, gather everything else to do it right with proper prep and machine work.