What the skinny on the Tick hatemaker 2 cam?
What's the max RPM you'd spin to? That Tick cam will probably need to be shifted at 6.7k or so.
And are street manners important to you? The cam has a good bit of overlap being in the 23x range with a tighter LSA, you're going to get a healthy dose of surge. Looks like the gear ratios of the C4 ZF6 trans and the T56 are pretty much the same, so I'd highly suggest 4.10's to make driving easier while being livable on the highway. You're going to have to slip the clutch way more with stock gearing.
And are street manners important to you? The cam has a good bit of overlap being in the 23x range with a tighter LSA, you're going to get a healthy dose of surge. Looks like the gear ratios of the C4 ZF6 trans and the T56 are pretty much the same, so I'd highly suggest 4.10's to make driving easier while being livable on the highway. You're going to have to slip the clutch way more with stock gearing.
What's the max RPM you'd spin to? That Tick cam will probably need to be shifted at 6.7k or so.
And are street manners important to you? The cam has a good bit of overlap being in the 23x range with a tighter LSA, you're going to get a healthy dose of surge. Looks like the gear ratios of the C4 ZF6 trans and the T56 are pretty much the same, so I'd highly suggest 4.10's to make driving easier while being livable on the highway. You're going to have to slip the clutch way more with stock gearing.
And are street manners important to you? The cam has a good bit of overlap being in the 23x range with a tighter LSA, you're going to get a healthy dose of surge. Looks like the gear ratios of the C4 ZF6 trans and the T56 are pretty much the same, so I'd highly suggest 4.10's to make driving easier while being livable on the highway. You're going to have to slip the clutch way more with stock gearing.
Oh yea. Just trying to do it once. I have to buy the tuning software for him and total without travel time and cost is gonna cost me 2k. Most expensive tune I've ever paid for. So don't wanna do twice lol
Are you opposed to a mail order? Or better yet, if you're not emissions limited you can do an OBD1 conversion + mail order and tweak the spark/fuel yourself on the dyno with a ALDL cable and some freeware. WOT tuning is pretty straight forward.
$75 for a f/b-body pcm (I think it can be done, but look into bcm/security system details)
$60 for an aldl cable, borrow old laptop
$? knock sensors
$150 for a tune
+ whatever dyno time costs
$75 for a f/b-body pcm (I think it can be done, but look into bcm/security system details)
$60 for an aldl cable, borrow old laptop
$? knock sensors
$150 for a tune
+ whatever dyno time costs
Are you opposed to a mail order? Or better yet, if you're not emissions limited you can do an OBD1 conversion + mail order and tweak the spark/fuel yourself on the dyno with a ALDL cable and some freeware. WOT tuning is pretty straight forward.
$75 for a f/b-body pcm (I think it can be done, but look into bcm/security system details)
$60 for an aldl cable, borrow old laptop
$? knock sensors
$150 for a tune
+ whatever dyno time costs
$75 for a f/b-body pcm (I think it can be done, but look into bcm/security system details)
$60 for an aldl cable, borrow old laptop
$? knock sensors
$150 for a tune
+ whatever dyno time costs
241/245 | .571”/.577” | LSA111+4 (.609"/.615" lift with 1.6 rockers)...too much????
I have run everything from 222/228 up to 264/272 in various LT1 stroker combos....has to be something in your personal goals/wants that is leading them to say that
my last street car grind was a 242/252 .610/.620 110lsa...mild street manners and ran 10s NA
I have run everything from 222/228 up to 264/272 in various LT1 stroker combos....has to be something in your personal goals/wants that is leading them to say that
my last street car grind was a 242/252 .610/.620 110lsa...mild street manners and ran 10s NA
Dyno time is about $100/hr around here, I'm guessing your tuner's fee is included in the rental time.
Was that in a stick car? A cam with a bunch of overlap is going to drive like crap if you have a grippy clutch and live in an area with lots of hills. Gears make it more manageable, but it still sucks.
OP is building a stroker. That cam profile would be just fine with the right gearing.
Dyno time is about $100/hr around here, I'm guessing your tuner's fee is included in the rental time.
Was that in a stick car? A cam with a bunch of overlap is going to drive like crap if you have a grippy clutch and live in an area with lots of hills. Gears make it more manageable, but it still sucks.
Was that in a stick car? A cam with a bunch of overlap is going to drive like crap if you have a grippy clutch and live in an area with lots of hills. Gears make it more manageable, but it still sucks.
I know, I've got Lloyd's 226/239 on a 114lsa in my 383 and it can be unpleasant at times with just a hair more overlap than a cc503. That Tick cam has +10.5 degrees of overlap over mine, more than a GM847 or cc306. Depends where you live I guess, my area is fairly congested and the terrain is pretty rugged. Something like stop and go traffic on a hill really sucks unless you have enough dough for a street twin (allegedly).
Dyno time is about $100/hr around here, I'm guessing your tuner's fee is included in the rental time.
Was that in a stick car? A cam with a bunch of overlap is going to drive like crap if you have a grippy clutch and live in an area with lots of hills. Gears make it more manageable, but it still sucks.
Was that in a stick car? A cam with a bunch of overlap is going to drive like crap if you have a grippy clutch and live in an area with lots of hills. Gears make it more manageable, but it still sucks.












