What the skinny on the Tick hatemaker 2 cam?
I know, I've got Lloyd's 226/239 on a 114lsa in my 383 and it can be unpleasant at times with just a hair more overlap than a cc503. That Tick cam has +10.5 degrees of overlap over mine, more than a GM847 or cc306. Depends where you live I guess, my area is fairly congested and the terrain is pretty rugged. Something like stop and go traffic on a hill really sucks unless you have enough dough for a street twin (allegedly).
I have a Spec 3+ which is a full face ceramic disc that's very on/off. I could rev it up and slip the clutch more starting on inclines, but then I risk glazing it. Some of the lower level Spec's I've driven have felt similarly crappy. I'm sure a stock clutch would be way smoother, but that seems pointless in a car with real power.
I too have the 3+. It's far from being "on/off." You want on/off get the stage 4 with a solid hub. That ***** will break drivetrain parts by merely installing it, or a RAM where because of the vodoo juju clutch material they use the flywheel will wear out before the clutch. I dunno, dude. I had a 248/250 .650/.610 solid cam and for a time had 3.73 gears and it could chug right along at 1200/1500 RPM in an OD gear. Video is while car is in 5th gear:
Have a XFI292 in now which actually makes as much power and the torque curve is virtually the same. Could easily install 3.73's and putt around town with no issue. If your cam profile overlap is close to a CC305 I think you have different issues.
Have a XFI292 in now which actually makes as much power and the torque curve is virtually the same. Could easily install 3.73's and putt around town with no issue. If your cam profile overlap is close to a CC305 I think you have different issues.
When I say on/off, my basis for comparison is my Roadmaster with a wimpy cc304 and a stock clutch. Car drives like stock and I have no problem taking it anywhere (except downtown where the roads get narrow, but that's a different problem). The Camaro in comparison takes way more effort to drive and the margin for error is much slimmer, although the clutch did smooth out a good bit after a few years. I can assure you nothing is wrong with it, I have no problems lugging it @ 1.5k on a relatively flat highway when the load is constant. The issues I'm describing have more to do with stop and go traffic and low speed situations.
Like I said, I think what cam you consider DD-able highly depends on where you live, ie what the topography looks like, the quality of infrastructure, and the level of congestion. I'm sure I'd have no problems dailying a solid roller if I lived in Kansas where the land is featureless, all roads are in a grid, and have relatively high speed limits. But I don't, and much of my commute and driving experience locally is crisscrossing through poorly connected and congested areas with a billion lights and stop signs. When my beater breaks down, my Roadmaster becomes my DD and it has never been an issue on my 12 mile/45 minute commute. I've taken the Camaro on the same route a number of times and that **** gets old really fast. This is apples to oranges.
Like I said, I think what cam you consider DD-able highly depends on where you live, ie what the topography looks like, the quality of infrastructure, and the level of congestion. I'm sure I'd have no problems dailying a solid roller if I lived in Kansas where the land is featureless, all roads are in a grid, and have relatively high speed limits. But I don't, and much of my commute and driving experience locally is crisscrossing through poorly connected and congested areas with a billion lights and stop signs. When my beater breaks down, my Roadmaster becomes my DD and it has never been an issue on my 12 mile/45 minute commute. I've taken the Camaro on the same route a number of times and that **** gets old really fast. This is apples to oranges.
Yeah when living in VA and commuting into DC and sometimes even taking the car because of how driver friendly it is, I have no idea what you're talking about. 
If you can, post up your torque curve?
If you can, post up your torque curve?
This was from 4 years ago and before I realized how to zero the PE spark adder, so there's a little more timing the higher the revs build, peak @ 35deg and 12.8AFR. This was at a dyno day so there was no time for adjustments.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...13a0bbf97e.jpg
Granted, my motor is 9.5:1 with a crappy quench, so that could have something to do with low RPM characteristics.
hey just an update im ordering the tick cam tomorrow. For me I feel like its in between the cams I was already looking at and both my tuners like it and my engine builder is happy with it
I'll let everyone know how it turns out
I'll let everyone know how it turns out
To give a more long term update. This cam works very well. Almost no cam surge and everyone told me it would be bad but I cant even tell. My builds rockets and she loves this cam!! With how stable this cam drives I would even try the "hold my beer" cam. Altho I think I dialed everything in just right for this specific build! Wish I could post a video for you guys!
Heres an idle video
Heres an idle video
To give a more long term update. This cam works very well. Almost no cam surge and everyone told me it would be bad but I cant even tell. My builds rockets and she loves this cam!! With how stable this cam drives I would even try the "hold my beer" cam. Altho I think I dialed everything in just right for this specific build! Wish I could post a video for you guys!
Heres an idle video
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnS4_...on_share_sheet
Heres an idle video
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnS4_...on_share_sheet









