Please help ive got a 93 Z28 been sitting in the weeds for a while it needs tranny work and a possible fuel pump its a big job i know everything seems overwhelming i apologize im new this is my first post

 

Wow you’ve given up on your first post?

 

You could start by being a little more specific about what you need help with

 

Get the car running first. then worry about moving the car under it's own power.

 

If you need motivation on how to get a car running that's been sitting, watch Vice Grip Garage.
If you need a fuel pump, study up on the trap door mod.

 

hey thanks to all u who commented i agree with the gentlemen who said get it running first then make it move i will do that
and i know about the trap door mod i just dont wanna cut holes in my car but it may come to that and also i bought a 94 amd up tranny a while back but i then found out that i guess 93 is specific amd i have a 4l60 not a 4l60e should i sell it or can i adapt it for my 93 once again i apologize if im not posting correctly im new

 

I believe the 93 used the 4l60 not electronically controlled. Could be wrong though

 

Yeah 93 isnt electronically controlled

 

The 4L60 is just a designation change for the 700R4. It has a square 4-pin connector for the TCC lockup on/off and a 2-pin VSS on the driver's side of the tailshaft. Uses a throttle valve cable to control line pressure and all shifts are based on pressure. Uses the same torque converter as the 4L60E in 94, with zero carbon (paper) TCC friction material, just like the 700R4 did before. 95 went to a low carbon content TCC lining for pulse-modulated TCC lockup at higher speeds only. 96 went to a woven carbon lining to stand up to PWM TCC apply at lower speeds as well. So if you later find you need a torque converter after you get it running, get one for 94 and earlier 4L60E/ 4L60/ 700R4. improper adjustment of the throttle valve cable can burn up a 700R4/ 4L60 very quickly (too loose). Too tight will make for firmer/ later shifts and feels good but isn't.

If you do the trap door mod, there are a couple good writeups. draw out the cut accordingly, drill all corners carefully and use heavy tin snips. Less risky than a rotary cutting tool that could damage things underneath. The Delco EP376 pump will support right at 500 flywheel HP and is reasonably priced, and was OE on the LT1 corvettes. Make sure the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm isn't part of your problem as well. When it fails, it won't hold pressure and fuel dumps into its vacuum line to the intake.

 

Depending on how long its been sitting, I would definitely get those injectors cleaned or replaced.

 

I'd also hard pass on the trap door but only because I've done it before and in the end it's not really as big a shortcut as it seems. By the time you cut and trim the hole and build a suitable cover you could just drop the tank. It's not THAT big a job really, even without a lift. I'm assuming you aren't doing the job in a field.

If there's a LOT wrong with the car you could just buy a decent roller for less than $1,000 - probably with a nicer interior and needing far less work.

 

Agreed, dropping the tank in these cars ain't that bad. Get it up on stands (nice and high) , hold rear end with a jack, unbolt lower shock mount then unbolt panhard bar, lower jack. Undo all connections, unbolt straps and wrestle that pig out.. replace pump/ filter and reverse your steps. Check all fluids, put a fresh battery in it and some clean fuel, and fire it up.......