BeCool vs Ebay
- Is the computer programmed correctly for the stat in use?
- Compression ratio of the new engine?
- Is the WP sensor temp reading close to temp reading of the head gauge sensor?
- Are you using the correct head gaskets for the LT1? The wrong ones may screw up coolant flow.
- How does the impeller size of the epump you have compare to the mechanical pump?
- Could the impeller be spinning on the WP shaft? I know it's new...but I've got bad new parts before...
- Does a mechanical pump cool it better?
Check the condenser.
wonder on temps just because it runs constant speed, while the engine load is variable, wonder
if the dash gauge is too slow reacting to catch it?
I use a cheap IR temp gun to check the inlet and outlet of the radiator to see what the temperature
drop across the radiator is at idle.
wonder on temps just because it runs constant speed, while the engine load is variable, wonder
if the dash gauge is too slow reacting to catch it?
I use a cheap IR temp gun to check the inlet and outlet of the radiator to see what the temperature
drop across the radiator is at idle.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
the radiator is cooling the coolant enough to allow it to absorb the heat energy at whatever
power level your concerned about as it cycles back through the block. you should see a significant drop,
if your putting 11000 btu in to the radiator it has to shed 11000 to break even.
Good luck!
I bought a Cold Case radiator. It ended up clearing the ac lines but it's really tight. Like, the condenser wont completely slide into the hangers tight. But it seems to have fixed my issue. I've only got about 46 min run time right now but it was almost all idling the with ac on. Also took it for about a 5 min drive with a wot pull. Temp was rock solid at 180






