Anyone got any suggestions for better fans?

 

Something is screwed up if a 160* stat is not cooling it better. My temps dropped 20* with that one change. Granted....I don't have a 396 though....

• Is the computer programmed correctly for the stat in use?
• Compression ratio of the new engine?
• Is the WP sensor temp reading close to temp reading of the head gauge sensor?
• Are you using the correct head gaskets for the LT1? The wrong ones may screw up coolant flow.
• How does the impeller size of the epump you have compare to the mechanical pump?
• Could the impeller be spinning on the WP shaft? I know it's new...but I've got bad new parts before...
• Does a mechanical pump cool it better?

And as usual....are you absolutely sure you filled up the coolant system correctly? So many people complain about the LT1 system being hard to bleed, but it's BS. They just don't know how to fill it correctly. In over 20 years of owning my LT1 the coolant system has been stupid easy to fill once you realize that you don't touch the bleed screws after the initial fill of the system. The system will self bleed any excess air in the system into the radiator after driving a couple of trips. That is the purpose of checking and topping off the radiator level, when FULLY cold, for 2-3 trips after the fill procedure. Usually, it only takes a couple of top offs then the thing will be full on the 3rd cold top off check.

 

Yes, the fans are almost always on under a certain speed. I'm using cometic head gaskets, 12.2 comp.. I've checked every aspect of the waterpump including proper rotation. Yes its been bled correctly with 75% water and 2 bottles of water wetter

 

Maybe I missed it, but if your condenser is original, it could be clogged with road debris. I had a cooling system nightmare. New water pump, new radiator, multiple caps,160, fan switch...still overheated. Ac compressor was the original and making noise so it and a new condenser were installed. Problem solved.

Check the condenser.

 

Brand new condenser

 

Are you using a temperature managed controller for the water pump? If not your likely getting "some"
wonder on temps just because it runs constant speed, while the engine load is variable, wonder
if the dash gauge is too slow reacting to catch it?

I use a cheap IR temp gun to check the inlet and outlet of the radiator to see what the temperature
drop across the radiator is at idle.

 

I can't imagine why I'd ever want it to run slower

 

Got an ebay radiator in my C3, only complaint was had to chop off the lower hose end and get the angle right for the car, it was suppose to be direct fit. Still sure beat the Corvette TAX!

 

That's why I suggested checking the inlet and outlet temps on the radiator, you need to know if
the radiator is cooling the coolant enough to allow it to absorb the heat energy at whatever
power level your concerned about as it cycles back through the block. you should see a significant drop,
if your putting 11000 btu in to the radiator it has to shed 11000 to break even.

Good luck!

 

Following up in case anyone needs this info in the future.

I bought a Cold Case radiator. It ended up clearing the ac lines but it's really tight. Like, the condenser wont completely slide into the hangers tight. But it seems to have fixed my issue. I've only got about 46 min run time right now but it was almost all idling the with ac on. Also took it for about a 5 min drive with a wot pull. Temp was rock solid at 180