I'm currently running an Ebay 3 core radiator. seems well constructed but the temp creeps up while in traffic. Does the same thing with a new stock radiator. I'm tempted to buy a BeCool but I don't want to spend $600 on a radiator and it not fix my problem. Can anyone tell me if a BeCool will outperform and ebay one?

Car has a fresh motor, electric water pump, and a 1/4 filled block.

 

Can you post some pictures of your set up? Pretty hard to give input without seeing what you have, often not the radiator or fan(s).

 

I don't have any right now but its got new LS fan and had all the factory plastic baffles in place. Meziere HD pump. This is the radiator I have.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/27315258158...4bdc%7Ciid%3A1

 

What does it raise up to? It is weird because you have an e-w/p the water is flowing in stop/go as it would at speed. My temps are usually rock steady at 185 to 190* during traffic and wide open road in the summer. Using the A/C is a different animal in stop/go though. Usually it will stay 190* open road and 220* in traffic. This is with a stock radiator. IMO if your temps are getting uncomfortably high you have flow issues of some sort whether it be from low coolant or some sort of restriction w/in the system. How old is your pump? Possible it's not moving water like it should.

 

^^^this is more likely the cause

BeCrap radiators are expensive junk

You want a radiator with fewer, but larger, cores like 1 1/4" 2 row. If you do get any new radiator, check out Cold Case

 

^^^
Could very well be. Missed that little detail.

 

Its getting up to about 210 in traffic but its also fairly cool here right now. I'm sure its going to get worse in the summer. Pump is brand new. I even ran redundant wiring to it to make sure it had enough voltage.

 

Do you have any kind of fan switch to manually turn on your fans? I found out many years later, after coming up with a nightmare of a wiring schematic to turn on fans to my car before fan switches were made available for 96+ cars, the fans were not getting full voltage and were running slower than they should. I got rid of it, did shoebox's recommendation just a few years ago and found out that way. Also, are you sure with this wiring to the w/p it is getting 12v?

 

I'll have to look into the fan wiring. It better, the relay is wired directly to the junction box by the battery, which is new.

 

How old is your rad cap? I'd check that out too.

 

How is the radiator cap going to make it run hotter in traffic?

 

If its not holding the pressure, coolant boils over quicker.

 

I guess I missed where he said it was boiling over.

 

Its not boiling over but the cap is new

I looked into Cold Case and found a bunch of reviews saying the passenger end tank doesn't have clearance for the ac lines. This sin't gonna work since I still have ac.

 

you know factory temps are around 226

 

Yea, but its probably gonna get worse in the summer

 

I had some issues with my car getting hot last summer and two things made the difference for me. One was sealing up the gaps between the radiator and heat exchanger with some shrouds. Second was I upgraded to a more powerful fan. My new fan flows about twice as much as the old one and now it stays right where I command it with my ECU.

 

What is the temp of the thermostat you are running?

 

180. its actually worse with a 160

 

Without changing the frontal area of the radiator, you are just adding time to how long it takes to climb. Won't change the end result.

I would look into moving more air thru the stack and more coolant thru your block, along with a oil cooler.