Crank recommendations?
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 497
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From: Shlumpt, TX
@****** It is not. You can choose between the two.
Looking at these two rods now:
SKU: 2-350-6000-2100-QLSA https://www.scatcrankshafts.com/prod...nnecting-rods/ Scat Rod
P/N: CSA6000DS2A2AX https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...s2a2ah#reviews Callies Rod
Can't open the Callies rod for some reason. Just on Summit, probably how it works. I like the Scat rod as it mentions cam clearance AND it seems to be 50 grams lighter. That would be cool.
Edit: I realize that the P/N for the Callies rod I was originally looking at is not available on summit. I am unsure of the difference between the listed parts above, the last character in the P/N being X vs H. I may have to email Callies again and ask.
Also the crank I was looking at from Scat is not available at Summit BUT they do have a 4-350-3750-5700-L which is their standard weight crank for $300 cheaper. (Main reason I am Summit shopping is because I get a 10-15% discount.) I am trying to get a lighter rotating assy for maximum throttle response but this may be the option I end up with.
Crank link: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-435050l
Looking at these two rods now:
SKU: 2-350-6000-2100-QLSA https://www.scatcrankshafts.com/prod...nnecting-rods/ Scat Rod
P/N: CSA6000DS2A2AX https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...s2a2ah#reviews Callies Rod
Can't open the Callies rod for some reason. Just on Summit, probably how it works. I like the Scat rod as it mentions cam clearance AND it seems to be 50 grams lighter. That would be cool.
Edit: I realize that the P/N for the Callies rod I was originally looking at is not available on summit. I am unsure of the difference between the listed parts above, the last character in the P/N being X vs H. I may have to email Callies again and ask.
Also the crank I was looking at from Scat is not available at Summit BUT they do have a 4-350-3750-5700-L which is their standard weight crank for $300 cheaper. (Main reason I am Summit shopping is because I get a 10-15% discount.) I am trying to get a lighter rotating assy for maximum throttle response but this may be the option I end up with.
Crank link: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-435050l
Last edited by shakenfake; Mar 3, 2023 at 11:05 AM.
Unless your piston is for sure below the 410gram piston called for id skip the scat rod. Me? I’d skip it anyway because I don’t like parts right at the limit. I prefer a decent safety margin.
They are similar to what’s known as 2bbl rods. They get the weight down for every last bit of performance in restricted classes. But they are aged out after a season or two.
They are similar to what’s known as 2bbl rods. They get the weight down for every last bit of performance in restricted classes. But they are aged out after a season or two.
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 497
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From: Shlumpt, TX
@bthomas The other rods I was looking at were these but I was turned off by them because of the L19 fasteners.
P/N: 2-350-6000-2100-HPS-L19 https://www.scatcrankshafts.com/prod...nnecting-rods/
P/N: 2-350-6000-2100-HPS-L19 https://www.scatcrankshafts.com/prod...nnecting-rods/
Crank weight doesn’t matter much on rpm change. Flywheel weight and moi has a much larger effect.
my callies 3.875 crank weighs right at 50lbs. Most of the budget lightweight cranks available aren’t much less than this (3lbs or so). The extra weight is all near the center, not much moi change. Also that last 3bs makes a big diff on flex though. I don’t want a wet noodle for a crank that eats bearings up.
my callies 3.875 crank weighs right at 50lbs. Most of the budget lightweight cranks available aren’t much less than this (3lbs or so). The extra weight is all near the center, not much moi change. Also that last 3bs makes a big diff on flex though. I don’t want a wet noodle for a crank that eats bearings up.
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My Scat crank is standard weight, but it is internal balance vs the internal/external (rear) t
Shakenflake posts
https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...%2Fsca-435050l
Shakenflake posts
https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...%2Fsca-435050l
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So after looking at my paperwork it says, “need profiled rods- Compstar ect with shorter bolts….” What I do remember is I bought Eagle rods at first and they did not like them because the big end was more girthy and more material would have to be removed from the pan rails and stated Compstar would be the better way to go. Sorry. No part number specified.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2021
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From: Shlumpt, TX
Opinions on internal/external vs internal balance? I think for simplicity reasons I like the internal balance but I guess internal/external would work fine too, the LT1 crank was internal/external from the factory.
Scat, Callies, Lunati and Eagle all make 4340 forged 1pc RMS forged cranks or at least they used to, I currently have four 3.75" stroke forged cranks, Howards Tracksmart 4340 forged 1pc rms, Cola 4340 forged 1 pc rms, Callies 4340 1pc rms and an Eagle 4340 forged 1pc rms cranks.
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 497
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From: Shlumpt, TX
I'm back after a slight hiatus. Question of the day: Rod journal, 2" vs 2.1" and why?
Currently looking at this Scat crank https://www.scatcrankshafts.com/prod...ed-crankshaft/
3.875" stroke, 1 piece RMS, 6" rod length, internally balanced, under $2k. Seems to be everything I want. BUT they only have it in a 2.1" rod journal. Should that sway me away? Why or why not?
I'll do some research on this as well but since I have you gents here...
Currently looking at this Scat crank https://www.scatcrankshafts.com/prod...ed-crankshaft/
3.875" stroke, 1 piece RMS, 6" rod length, internally balanced, under $2k. Seems to be everything I want. BUT they only have it in a 2.1" rod journal. Should that sway me away? Why or why not?
I'll do some research on this as well but since I have you gents here...
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 497
Likes: 148
From: Shlumpt, TX
Leaning much more heavily towards a 396 now. Have the crank picked out (posted above) and am looking between two rods. One is their "Lite" version, most likely will just stick with the normal version as it comes out cheaper anyway. P/N: 2-350-6000-2100-S Should be a good setup.
Now I must go back to main caps and studs because I am slightly confused. Going to 4 bolt straight or splayed mains is only in the center three correct? Secondly, what part number are the studs for this application? I saw that some state "Stock windage tray" I do know I will need to clearance it but I am not sure by how much. If I am clearancing then I would assume that there is a longer stud to hold the windage tray on? Not sure...
The part I am looking at currently is ARP 234-5610. These should clear in the oil pan though, don't think I am worried about that.
Now I must go back to main caps and studs because I am slightly confused. Going to 4 bolt straight or splayed mains is only in the center three correct? Secondly, what part number are the studs for this application? I saw that some state "Stock windage tray" I do know I will need to clearance it but I am not sure by how much. If I am clearancing then I would assume that there is a longer stud to hold the windage tray on? Not sure...
The part I am looking at currently is ARP 234-5610. These should clear in the oil pan though, don't think I am worried about that.
