View Poll Results: Which is best/why?
Fogger in the intake elbow
31
31.00%
Throttle body Plate
29
29.00%
Direct Port
30
30.00%
NOS noszzle system
5
5.00%
Other
6
6.00%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 100. You may not vote on this poll
How to spray an LT1
07-05-2007, 12:03 AM
#41
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I run the NX MAF kit and I love it. I'm running a 100 shot just to be safe while I build up other stuff and get a tune 
But I did pick up 14mph just from that in the 1/4
But I did pick up 14mph just from that in the 1/4 
07-05-2007, 12:13 AM
#42
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
No way in hell would I run jiuce with aftermarket MAF ends that is flat out asking to burn a piston as screwing with MAF ends without extensive tuning will mess up AFR because the MAF will no longer be accurately interpereted by the pcm.
Personally I think the fogger right in front of the TB is the best place. If your intake setup allows them drill your maf for the mounting point again only if right in front of the TB and straight. Plate would work well too.
I would not use a port system on that small a shot because one tiny piece of debris could easily plug those tiny fuel jets and a cylinder goes BANG, I would probably reserve a port system for say 250+ shots.
On dry systems the stock injectors can lock closed(BANG again) is overpressurized which is how a dry system handles fuel enrichment so please at least upgrade the injectors ones like the SVOs lock open and can handle more pressure anyway.
Dry systems are for simplicity and easy newbie installs the only serious/knowledgable nitrous users I know of using dry are doing so with aftermarket engine management capable of controlling the system and fuel enrichment.
Yes the LT1 intake is "dry" but also consider that the charge it will carry with a wet kit is a very lean mix because more fuel will be added at the injectors, being lean will help it stay in suspension.
On the larger TB with the injection ports just make sure your intake openings are adequately sized a 58mm TB over a 54mm hole is not going to be performance increase.
On the FP safety switch make sure to set it a few pounds LOWER than what you have for pressure because the instant the fuel solenoid opens there will be a momentary drop in pressure sounds like this is what is happening. Think about 36psi is prefered setting to avoid this. If it still cycles then you probably have to address your fuel system. The window switches and SPARK BASED rev limit are important as well you gety a good ignition and it can handle those as well as retard all in one box. The spark based rev limit is important because the pcm limits revs by shutting down the injectors again BANG.
Personally I think the fogger right in front of the TB is the best place. If your intake setup allows them drill your maf for the mounting point again only if right in front of the TB and straight. Plate would work well too.
I would not use a port system on that small a shot because one tiny piece of debris could easily plug those tiny fuel jets and a cylinder goes BANG, I would probably reserve a port system for say 250+ shots.
On dry systems the stock injectors can lock closed(BANG again) is overpressurized which is how a dry system handles fuel enrichment so please at least upgrade the injectors ones like the SVOs lock open and can handle more pressure anyway.
Dry systems are for simplicity and easy newbie installs the only serious/knowledgable nitrous users I know of using dry are doing so with aftermarket engine management capable of controlling the system and fuel enrichment.
Yes the LT1 intake is "dry" but also consider that the charge it will carry with a wet kit is a very lean mix because more fuel will be added at the injectors, being lean will help it stay in suspension.
On the larger TB with the injection ports just make sure your intake openings are adequately sized a 58mm TB over a 54mm hole is not going to be performance increase.
On the FP safety switch make sure to set it a few pounds LOWER than what you have for pressure because the instant the fuel solenoid opens there will be a momentary drop in pressure sounds like this is what is happening. Think about 36psi is prefered setting to avoid this. If it still cycles then you probably have to address your fuel system. The window switches and SPARK BASED rev limit are important as well you gety a good ignition and it can handle those as well as retard all in one box. The spark based rev limit is important because the pcm limits revs by shutting down the injectors again BANG.
I just saw this. ANyone ever tell you MAYBE someone knows some thing you don't?
To answer most of your questions ...DUH! I was doing this **** before you put a cold air kit on your car! I WROTE the MAF tables before you knew WTF tuning was.
and DAMN you are annoying at times! I must admit if you knew more you could be helpful and not just a PITA!
07-06-2007, 05:58 PM
#45
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Has anyone else ever tried spraying a .078 jet through a downfiring NOS big solenoid through say 3in of hard line (that would normally be used for hooking up a direct port) dry through the MAF with only LS2 injectors as a supporting mod? My friend did it and the car went 12.6 at 116 on street tires, it survived about 5 10 pound bottles before he sold it. I'm not sure about its fate after that but it was fast for a good long while.
07-07-2007, 09:52 AM
#46
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Originally Posted by Nutty91RS
Has anyone else ever tried spraying a .078 jet through a downfiring NOS big solenoid through say 3in of hard line (that would normally be used for hooking up a direct port) dry through the MAF with only LS2 injectors as a supporting mod? My friend did it and the car went 12.6 at 116 on street tires, it survived about 5 10 pound bottles before he sold it. I'm not sure about its fate after that but it was fast for a good long while.
He was lucky. But sometimes it better being lucky then good.
