new guy needs some help bad
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 116
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new guy needs some help bad okay i bought my 95 transam with 42000 miles on it about 3 weeks ago. about a week and a half ago it wouldnt start. that turned out to be the gas gauge is waaaaayyyy off. i tried to start it a bunch of times before i decided to put gas init. after i put gas in it, it started right up... problem is it idles really hard. when i drive it i can tell that it isnt running 100%. it hesitates really bad. from a stop from time to time when i hit the gas to take off it makes a clicking sound and craps on itself. around 45 the whole car starts to shake really bad when im going up a hill or letting off the gas. when im at a red light it feels like its gonna die. rpms jump from like 500rpm to 1300rpm. i have a feeling that its a clogged fuel filter but im not sure. im having it ran on a computer tommorow morning to find out what it could be. anyone want to surprise me early and give me an idea of what it is? if you need more info let me know. thanks
oh yeah.. also im new here and would like to say whats up to everyone.
oh yeah.. also im new here and would like to say whats up to everyone.
Originally Posted by VanbibberLt1
okay i bought my 95 transam with 42000 miles on it about 3 weeks ago. about a week and a half ago it wouldnt start. that turned out to be the gas gauge is waaaaayyyy off. i tried to start it a bunch of times before i decided to put gas init. after i put gas in it, it started right up... problem is it idles really hard. when i drive it i can tell that it isnt running 100%. it hesitates really bad. from a stop from time to time when i hit the gas to take off it makes a clicking sound and craps on itself. around 45 the whole car starts to shake really bad when im going up a hill or letting off the gas. when im at a red light it feels like its gonna die. rpms jump from like 500rpm to 1300rpm. i have a feeling that its a clogged fuel filter but im not sure. im having it ran on a computer tommorow morning to find out what it could be. anyone want to surprise me early and give me an idea of what it is? if you need more info let me know. thanks
oh yeah.. also im new here and would like to say whats up to everyone.
oh yeah.. also im new here and would like to say whats up to everyone.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 267
From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
We don't know the history of the car and if you don't, well, it could be a bad thing. I know of alot of guys who de-mod their cars, leave the modded tune in, throw on some junkyard parts and just trade them in. This could be the case. As far as the vibration, does it feel like driveline or engine shutter? Let us know more info. We're here to help, some of us can take a ball of fuzz, chewing gum, and a Swiss army knife and blow up the world, but we need more info.
Could trying to start it for too long with no gas screw up the fuel pump? Could you have pulled some trash in the system (usually at the bottom of all tanks) causing the fuel filter to become stopped up? I know that fuel pumps are lubricated by the gas that runs through them, correct? Just a few random thoughts... Good luck with finding the culprit.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 177
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The fuel gauges on LT1s are off about 1/4 of a tank almost. Theres no real fix for the problem, its the floater in the tank.
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Teching In
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Tampa,Florida
I ran out of gas the first day i bought my car because the damn needle read 1/4 tank and all of a sudden it started sputtering and ran out of gas lol
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2005
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Yes, running without gas can fry the pump. I'm not sure that the fuel so much 'lubricates' as much as it 'cools' though. Typically, if this were the case, I would expect the pump to just stop working altogether.
If you want to test the fuel system to make certain the engine is getting enough, it might be a good idea to test the fuel pressure via the schrader valve on the rear of the fuel rail. Got a test gauge? Run about $35 from the local auto parts store...
(Should be ~43.5psi with vacuum control hose disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator -- but 41-47psi is technically ok. Should get around 37-40psi with vacuum control line attached to the fuel pressure regulator).
If you want to test the fuel system to make certain the engine is getting enough, it might be a good idea to test the fuel pressure via the schrader valve on the rear of the fuel rail. Got a test gauge? Run about $35 from the local auto parts store...
(Should be ~43.5psi with vacuum control hose disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator -- but 41-47psi is technically ok. Should get around 37-40psi with vacuum control line attached to the fuel pressure regulator).
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2005
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okay i got it scanned today.... the guy said that there is a cylinder not fireing.. he told me it could be a bad spark plug, burnt up fuel injector, or it could be worse. he said to absolutely not drive it at all becuase i could blow a hole in a piston. so im stuck without a car for the next two weeks. i hope its not to bad off because i cant afford to buy a new engine right now. 
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2005
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he was using a diagnostic machine.. thats different from a code flasher isnt it? i dont know really this is the first time ive had to deal with the obd1 crap. my v6 never had any problems.. makes me think i should have just kept it.
i have another question also.. is it possible to swap from obd1 to obd2?
i have another question also.. is it possible to swap from obd1 to obd2?
Originally Posted by VanbibberLt1
he was using a diagnostic machine.. thats different from a code flasher isnt it? i dont know really this is the first time ive had to deal with the obd1 crap. my v6 never had any problems.. makes me think i should have just kept it.
i have another question also.. is it possible to swap from obd1 to obd2?
i have another question also.. is it possible to swap from obd1 to obd2?
. You'll find the problem....Most people (when starting some heavy modding) prefer to have the OBDI, I have seen quite a few people convert from OBDII to OBDI.
I converted to OBDI from OBDII so I could do some tuning and fix a few things in the emmissions arena. I say keep your chin up, you'll get this fixed and end up liking the car. You've got years to learn to hate it, don't start already!
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Las Vegas.. back in san jose..
dont get rid of it for ur V6....when i got my car there were problems broke my tranny mount the first day thought about selling it and getting a truck.......after all was fixed and said and done i love her...shes running great... 
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 95
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From: Birmingham, AL
Definately change the fuel filter. Also check and make sure all your sensors are plugged-in securly. One time my IAC sensor (in the intake bellows) wasn't securely fastened and the car would run horrible, if at all, until I got it plugged back up. If the problem continues look into a plug and wire change and possibly an ignition coil as well. Worst comes to worst it's probably the optispark.
But try the simple things first and don't let some shop rob you blind.
But try the simple things first and don't let some shop rob you blind.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2005
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*Update* new guy needs help bad okay me and my buddies tore down the engine... heres things found so far..
we were listening to the car idle and heard a clicking noise.. we figured it to a colapsed lifter. so we started taking it aprart
1) the entire intake manifold wasnt bolted down properly.. we could take all of the bolts off by hand without trying.
2) the rocker arms werent adjusted properly.( whoever worked on the car before was very careless to say the least.)
3) the push rods were super loose.
thats all i have after day 1... tommorrow should bring new crap to the list.
also i have a question about the lifters.... are the supposed to slip right out of the hole or not? becuase we couldnt get them out.
we were listening to the car idle and heard a clicking noise.. we figured it to a colapsed lifter. so we started taking it aprart
1) the entire intake manifold wasnt bolted down properly.. we could take all of the bolts off by hand without trying.
2) the rocker arms werent adjusted properly.( whoever worked on the car before was very careless to say the least.)
3) the push rods were super loose.
thats all i have after day 1... tommorrow should bring new crap to the list.
also i have a question about the lifters.... are the supposed to slip right out of the hole or not? becuase we couldnt get them out.
If the valves are not adjusted properly and they left the retainer parts out of the lifter valley that could be all of your trouble. But usually if they left the spider and lifter retainers out it the lifter would rotate and spit it out. Chances are new intake gaskets and adjusting the lifters properly will fix her right up. As long as everything is stock thus far lt1 drivetrain is a fairly stout piece as long as you are not racing at high rpm. But when racing comes to play all bets are off. good luck keep us updated