View Poll Results: What is the best way to go for the MAF?
Granatelli MAF
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar2-l.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar2.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar2-r.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/clear.gif)
32
11.85%
MAF Ends
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar3-l.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar3.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar3-r.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/clear.gif)
22
8.15%
Descreened Stock MAF
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar4-l.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar4.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar4-r.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/clear.gif)
97
35.93%
Bone Stock MAF
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar5-l.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar5.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar5-r.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/clear.gif)
119
44.07%
Voters: 270. You may not vote on this poll
Granatelli vs MAF Ends vs Descreened Stock vs Bone Stock
#21
TECH Addict
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Garden City, KS
Posts: 2,529
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
well my car did have a stock screened MAF but after my nitrous backfired it is now a descreened MAF. hope it doesnt do anything to my car. I havent noticed anything so i think its all good.
#22
TECH Addict
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Garden City, KS
Posts: 2,529
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
well my car did have a stock screened MAF but after my nitrous backfired it is now a descreened MAF. hope it doesnt do anything to my car. I havent noticed anything so i think its all good.
#23
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Almont, MI
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have hand ported MAF ends, with a stock descreened MAF. I was told by the company that built my motor, that if I put a granatelli, or an SLP, or any other company other than the factory stock sensor, that they would kick my a** the next time they saw me. It makes the car difficult to tune, and unless you are stock, is a waste of money. I ported and descreened mine for better airflow, and if I were you, I would leave the electronics alone. Also, on my car, the car stalls as soon as you either unplug the MAF, or tip it more than a 90 degree angle from where it is supposed to be.
#25
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I descreened my MAF and it has been that way for a while. My car didn't run any different in my opinion. No different on idle either. It idles around 800-850. My screen was pretty nasty though. I'm thinking about putting a new one back on though. Anyone know where I can just get the screen? I would like to put a nice clean one back on. I would rather just keep it stock than screw with it. (Less problems, something could break one of yout sensors. The screen is also there to protect objects too big)
#29
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Genesis_26317
I think you must be nuts to take the screen off. Every damn time I look in it there is another DAMN cricket!!!!!!!
EVERY DAMN TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
EVERY DAMN TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#30
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have no idea how it happens...
I have a K&N filter with the little "seal" thing around it in place. I even checked the area around ever seal and there is nothing I can visibly see cracked or open.
There isn't really anything else around it either just one damn cricket corpse (well just the outer skin but you know what I mean).
Needless to say I just switched airlids and put a new bellows in place, that should fix any cracked seals on the old airlid.
I have a K&N filter with the little "seal" thing around it in place. I even checked the area around ever seal and there is nothing I can visibly see cracked or open.
There isn't really anything else around it either just one damn cricket corpse (well just the outer skin but you know what I mean).
Needless to say I just switched airlids and put a new bellows in place, that should fix any cracked seals on the old airlid.
#31
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Do they make any semi-aftermarket MAF replacements?
I mean as far as appearance with the only difference being the diameter maybe.
Just so the LSX manifold/throttle body, mti airlid and SLP smooth bellows has a pretty MAF to go with it. I don't mean just painting it either.
Not that I really feel like spending on it but if people say they can get 3 hp from a descreened one than shouldn't you get 3 hp from an aftermarket one that doesn't even mess with any calibrations? Or perhaps maybe 4?
I dunno... I have no idea what I am talking about.
I mean as far as appearance with the only difference being the diameter maybe.
Just so the LSX manifold/throttle body, mti airlid and SLP smooth bellows has a pretty MAF to go with it. I don't mean just painting it either.
Not that I really feel like spending on it but if people say they can get 3 hp from a descreened one than shouldn't you get 3 hp from an aftermarket one that doesn't even mess with any calibrations? Or perhaps maybe 4?
I dunno... I have no idea what I am talking about.
#32
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
MAF calibration is HIGHLY dependant on crossection. The little wires inside are resistors that current flows through in an attempt to heat them the MAF can see this heat as resistance it is aiming for a set value the signal it sends to the pcm is what frequncy of voltage it takes to maintain that temp/resistance. Now these wires only contact a tiny pecentage of the air actually passing through the sensor so the pcms ability to accurately interperate that info is dependant on a fixed MAF crossection. Think about it like this those little wires do not know if they are in a 3.5" hole or a 3.5foot hole air flowing though each at say 100feet per minute would register the same frequency but pbviously at the same velocity a 3.5foot hole will flow many times what the 3.5" hole will. You port it you change the ends anything and the pcm no longer has an accurate way or calculating airflow. The stock MAF is not a restriction for most of us, once it is then maybe consider larger ends or something just be aware that the existing calbrations in the pcm will be wrong and recalibrating is not a simple task and on a package wild enough to warrant a MAF upgrade serious dyno time will be in order to get everything corrected, unless you want the pcm making fuel9ing commands based on misinterperated info.
#34
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I went through the detailed explaination because that is what is neede to make people realize that despite what magzines and aftermarket parts suppliers say all a MAF has to do is provide interpretable info to the pcm without restricting airflow, andf changes to it need to be understood by the pcm. Once people understand how they work they are better able to make an educated decision. There are cars out there that genuinely do need a MAF capable of more flow than the stocker, but they are not common and are going to spend enough time tuning them to be able to account for MAF differences.
#37
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by infinitebird
SD vs. MAF might be relevant as a design argument, but it's generally not a real good idea to convert between them on the same car.
The 94+ cars that were designed to use the MAF are usually erratic and not very reliable when you run without the MAF. Many times they won't even start if you disconnect it.
The 94+ cars that were designed to use the MAF are usually erratic and not very reliable when you run without the MAF. Many times they won't even start if you disconnect it.
lol, mine ran better with it disconnected!!!!! ran fine with it connected, but I picked up serious power with it disconnected... any ideas?
#40
TECH Addict
iTrader: (30)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I cleaned and descreened my MAF last night and the car seems to run better, have better throttle response, and have a little more power. I think I would credit it more to the cleaning than descreening though. It was a stock MAF that probably hadn't been cleaned in the 14 years and 122k miles that the car has gone through. I was also kind of wondering about the ported MAF ends since I found them on WS6Store last night.