Rebuilding an LT1, need some prices
Sorry for so many questions, I tried finding stuff but couldn't find anything.
All that stuff was mail ordered from Jegs or Summit. I don't know if you have any O'Reilly Autoparts stores near you, but they seem to carrying gaskets, rings and bearings where Autozone and Discount Auto Parts had NOTHING. LOL, enjoy your second mortgage.. just joking
EDIT: Also, he needs a good price on a wiring harness. I've heard through a few people that Painless isn't the best and from some that it is.
Last edited by Imfamous Images; Mar 30, 2005 at 09:18 PM.
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I want a good 355 to rev to ~6500 rpm with some good AFR LT4 heads, LT4 intake etc. I want to make 400-450rwhp even

but that's just what *I* want...
why put all that money into the bottom end when you can get by with KB pistons (which are VERY inexpensive), good rods and a stocker crank (which from what i hear will handle up to 600rwhp ... but its probably the revs more than the hp that affects whether the crank will screw up or not)
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oh also a high volume pump on a daily driver is conter productive. it will take more power to drive and give you NO extra protection. and also half the time the extra oil will just go through the bypass valve. it is a waste of money. just rebuild the stock one.
painless is good. dad got one to go in my old '54 ford F100 and it was well made. he still hasnt finished the truck but it isnt the wirings fault. he didnt listen to me and rebuild the engine while out... oh well a story for another time.
also you could just use a stock PCM. or as stated in an earlier post convert to a Carb and distributer.
im sure you can find a good rebuilt LT1 355 shortblock for $1500-1600 with like clevite bearings or something ... even stocker powdered rods!
IMO put more money into your head work so you dont have to rev so high ... its the only way to have a truly reliable engine because revs kill engines (unless youre a 4 banger ... but im not even sure then)
im sure you can find a good rebuilt LT1 355 shortblock for $1500-1600 with like clevite bearings or something ... even stocker powdered rods!
IMO put more money into your head work so you dont have to rev so high ... its the only way to have a truly reliable engine because revs kill engines (unless youre a 4 banger ... but im not even sure then)
i like both see sig.
there is just something about a carbed engine it is like the perverbial blunt instrument.
then FI i love that stuff too. i'm always searching for an old Rochester "fulie". but with the power of a gen II or gen III forget about it, and great fuel economysorry back on topic
i dont think SDPC2000.com has anything

except 383's
I don't have personal experience with it but others have had success and you can't beat the price...especially for their forged rebuild kit.







