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My dad is getting a higher mileage LT1 and is wanting to freshen it up before he throws it in anything. He found Rod Bearings, Main Bearings and Gasket sets for $312.69 in Summit. He also needs prices on a timing chain set and a high volume oil pump. Also, is any of these sponsors a Painless Wiring dealer?

Sorry for so many questions, I tried finding stuff but couldn't find anything.

pillagenburn

iTrader: (2)

i'd like to know about this also - looking to put some Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons, I-beam rods and stocker crank or something like that on a bottom end rebuilt - probably use the stocker oil pump etc. (LT1 oiling system is really good anyway)....

Jordan57

well depending on the mileage most likely its okay....I've personally torn the heads of my own 130K LT1 and it looked fresh. As far as what to do you can find rotating assemblies from sdpc.com or many other sponsors to the right. Or you can get a new shortblock for around 1800 plus core charge. Then you could just build that and have zero down time.

pillagenburn

iTrader: (2)

where can you just buy a shortblock from? do they use good parts?

rebersole2

Timing Chain $199, Oil pump about $60, cam $259, aftermarket water pump $199, Valve springs $259, Rocker arms $309, GMPP manifold Carb conversion $259, Demon carb $400, Aftermarket mallory Distributor $200, And on and on and on.................

All that stuff was mail ordered from Jegs or Summit. I don't know if you have any O'Reilly Autoparts stores near you, but they seem to carrying gaskets, rings and bearings where Autozone and Discount Auto Parts had NOTHING. LOL, enjoy your second mortgage.. just joking

Vendetta

If you're going through the trouble of rebuilding, might as well use forged pistons imho.

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So basically these prices are pretty standard? I was looking to see if any of you knew of a place that could beat thes prices.

EDIT: Also, he needs a good price on a wiring harness. I've heard through a few people that Painless isn't the best and from some that it is.

pillagenburn

iTrader: (2)

why not use forged? because i'll never spray or supercharge, so i may as well put the lightest/strongest parts i can in there. If i went forged pistons, i'd need forged H-beam rods or something along those lines ... its like a domino effect, it all ends up being a 383 and/or a supercharger/nitrous

I want a good 355 to rev to ~6500 rpm with some good AFR LT4 heads, LT4 intake etc. I want to make 400-450rwhp even

but that's just what *I* want...

why put all that money into the bottom end when you can get by with KB pistons (which are VERY inexpensive), good rods and a stocker crank (which from what i hear will handle up to 600rwhp ... but its probably the revs more than the hp that affects whether the crank will screw up or not)

AAron

hell id just work on the stock rods. yeah forged pistons in a daily driver is kinda of a big waste of money. like killing a fly with a cruise missile.

oh also a high volume pump on a daily driver is conter productive. it will take more power to drive and give you NO extra protection. and also half the time the extra oil will just go through the bypass valve. it is a waste of money. just rebuild the stock one.

painless is good. dad got one to go in my old '54 ford F100 and it was well made. he still hasnt finished the truck but it isnt the wirings fault. he didnt listen to me and rebuild the engine while out... oh well a story for another time.

also you could just use a stock PCM. or as stated in an earlier post convert to a Carb and distributer.

pillagenburn

iTrader: (2)

why even convert to carb? much worse gas mileage and questionable power gain... if youre going to do anything performance, get the stock LT1 or LT4 intake/heads (or afr heads even) and get them all hogged out by Lloyd Elliott....

im sure you can find a good rebuilt LT1 355 shortblock for $1500-1600 with like clevite bearings or something ... even stocker powdered rods!

IMO put more money into your head work so you dont have to rev so high ... its the only way to have a truly reliable engine because revs kill engines (unless youre a 4 banger ... but im not even sure then)

AAron

i was just saying. somepeople arent comfortable with FI they like carbs.
i like both see sig. there is just something about a carbed engine it is like the perverbial blunt instrument. then FI i love that stuff too. i'm always searching for an old Rochester "fulie". but with the power of a gen II or gen III forget about it, and great fuel economy

sorry back on topic

pillagenburn

iTrader: (2)

see, i wanna know where i can just BUY a 2 or 4-bolt LT1 shortblock - maybe with a stocker oil pump who knows..... mostly assembled so i can just bolt heads, intake etc. on there and GO... very little down time

i dont think SDPC2000.com has anything

except 383's

AAron

yeah Scroggin Dickey has LT1 short blocks. i live in lubbock. anyways you just have to call.

wc00ac

iTrader: (1)

I priced one there a few weeks ago and they wanted 1500.

AAron

sounds about right

GhostZ

You might want to look into the Summit rebuild kit which comes with a HV oil pump.

I don't have personal experience with it but others have had success and you can't beat the price...especially for their forged rebuild kit.

pillagenburn

iTrader: (2)

was the $1500 scoggin dickey shortblock 2 or 4 bolt mains?

add $300 to ship the thing

how much does a LT1 shortblock weigh anyway? lol

AAron

LT1 short block will weigh about the same as a SBC. which i dont know off the top of my head. and as too 2 or 4 call them. if it is just a mild engine the 2 bolt wont hurt.