you need to watch that. If you get it in your eyes your in trouble.

 

just my .02

but if your a/c is off your clutch is disengaged and really doesn't support that much loss, of hp.... also even when on your A/c is on, it will cut off at WOT... Also having your a/c on cools your engine as it passes through the raditor. seriously it makes a huge difference in temps.... Yes there is a gain in HP by removing it and of course MPG, but I just personally don't see how it out weighs sweating your ***** of in the summer.....

As for the heater. your a/c and heat run seperatly you have a heater coil that runs radiator fluid through...... thats why your heater doesn't really work until your tstat opens.... Your a/c has a similar coil that runs 134a through which produces the cool air....

Does anyone have their A/c compressor that they would sell/give my their relay switches in the back.... I'm not sure how many there are or which one I need but my cut of switch is dead.

 

The cooling fans are another thing to consider. Our cars have 2 fans. One for standard cooling and the other one will only come on when the A/C is on. So if you ditch the A/C you have a fan sitting around doing nothing at all. There is a way to jump the relays so that the A/C fan will come on with the cooling fan and vise versa. Which makes it cool for people not running A/C as well as people who are running A/C. This is something I plan on doing my self since I have deleted my A/C, but I can’t find the article I read that in. All it takes is a 3” piece of wire with both ends striped, but I don’t know which terminals need to be jumped on the two relays under the hood. It’s probably easy enough to figure out if the relays have a diagram on them telling you which terminal is switched. Anyone done that yet?

 

^ both of you are incorrect.


first off the air coming off the condensor is HOT. It's being discharged as a hot, highside gas and then cools of to a liquid. The condensor is a heat exhanger. The hot air is being pulled THROUGH the radiator and heat soaking in. The only reason that you see temps drop is because of the fans running.

secondly. The fans have 2 totaly different triggers. They have low and high speeds. At low speed BOTH fans will run on low speed. on high BOTH fans will run on high speed. One fan isn't just for AC. They work in pair. Low speed fans will come on ANY time the AC is on. It will also come on anytime coolant temps are above 227*. High speed fans come on anytime the AC head pressure reaches 248 PSI. High speed fans will also come on anytime the ECT reads 235 or higher.

 

That was more of what I was thinking. Plus ditching your A/C is also more of a weight issue.

 

Yes it is. you can remove more weight by getting rid of it and see more of a gain then just mypassing it. The PS pump sucks up a LOT more HP then the AC hub. It's not much more then a large idler pully when the clutch is not engauged. It really don't hurt "much" at all.

 

so jumping the relays will just make the one fan come on earlier that it already would?

 

depending on how you "jumped" the relay your going to have the fans run when ever the key is on. This is bad for several reasons. Takin too long to heat the car up. Gas milage. Killing the fans. Electrical fires... and a lot more.

people that want the tenps to remain lower have them programed as such or install manual fan switchs. This will turn the fans on in the correct way as if the PCM was doing it's job and doesn't cause any harm where jumping the relays can.

 

No having them on all the times would be bad. I agree. I have the Thermomaster Chip from Hypertech and it turns the fan on @ 120. I am pritty sure the article I read indicated that the perpose of jumping the relays was to have them both come on at the same time and I think it was in GM Hightech Performance. My car stays fairly cool. I drilled 4 holes 1/8" in the thermostat to help a little more. It doesn't get extremely cold in virginia so the whole warming up thing is not an issue for me, I could see were it could cause an issue in colder states. I will have to find that article and do some more checking before I do that. Thanks for the heads up.

 

My compresor was dead, so their wasnt much in there. Heat will work fine, if your a/c works I highl recomend leaving it all in. Even if you want to save weight, let me tell you from experience, its not worth it unless it dooesnt work. Also I left all my harness in, what I dide was I unscrewed the deals the plugs plug in to and just tucked them away. I want to put an a/c back in my car but the main big metal line as well as the evap core were toast. I wish mine still had a/c, so my last warning, if it works its not worth pulling

 

If your fans come on at 120 you have some issues. Generaly with a low temp thermo you tend to program them on around 180*. if they come on lower then that it's just as bad as having them on from start up. Your not even at closed loop at 120 so there is no reason to impeed coolant temp rise before that.

 

DAM! 220 NOT 120. i needed sleep.

 

lol, at least thats the right direction. But really thats too high. Thats onlt 7* lower then stock. unless thats the high speed setting in which case thats' Close". but 200* even would probably be better for you. Unless you just wanted to control it yourself with a manual fan switch which is what I recomend.


Also, drilling holes in the thermo is a BAD idea. You want the coolant to go into bypass mode (not flowing through the radiator) during a cold start up to get the motor heated up faster. With holes in teh thermo your allowing coolant to flow all the time which means again, longer warm up temps.

 

now ya got me all cofused. i called hypertech to make sure and it is lower than 220*. the tech at hypertech said that it turns the fan on @ 176*. i have noticed that the car performs better at colder temps. so if it take a little longer to heat up it won't bother me. i have had it that way for years and never notice any problems from it. may be 220* is what it maxs out at. sound like i need to drive the car more huh?

i would be too nervous that i would forget to turn the fans on if i had it on a manual switch. that would be typical of my luck. if i could get both fans to come on at the same time there still would be the benifit of a more evenly cooled the radiator. provided that article was still using the temp sensor and did not have them run all the time. i should email GMHTP and see if they can tell me which issue the article is 1n.

 

If they come on at 176 thats about right. The car "feels" more powerfull at low temps because your running full timing adavnce. with hotter temps there is an increese in the chance of detonation. To combat this the PCM will pull some timing based on coolant temps voltage. The higher the temps the more timing it pulls.

This is why people like to run the cars as cool as possible at the tracks. But there is something as "too" cold. Like I said, you want to come up to operating temps fast but then keep them controlable after that. If you keep it too cool for too long your killing your gas milage and can actualy cause slight harm to the motor.

you don't need to worry about "remembering" the switch depending on what kind you get. Like the ones that I sell, most will allow for stock operation as well. For instence with mine. It's a 3 ways switch. Center position will allow the stock operation of the fans based on the PCM trigger. Example. Switch off. Temps hit high enough for either the stock program or the hypertech program to call for fan operation. The fans will still kick on just as if you never had the switch. But when you want them on sooner IE at the track or sitting in traffic you can put the switch on low (both low speed fans come on) or high (both high speed fans come on) and they will run for as long as you have the switch on.

Thats exactly what I use along with the stock fan program. I allow it to run between 200-210 during normal driving but at the track I keep temps between 175-180 the whole time.

 

what would the problem be with keeping the car at 175-180? besides the milage you mentioned already. i don't drive the car enough to worry about milage. plus i like the idea of the car always being at it's best performace all the time.

 

nothing is "wrong" with it persay. But, like i said you have lower milage, more wear on the motor and more emissions outputs. Thats why they are designed to run so hot from the factory. Less emissions. A test was done and showed that the LT1 made it's peak HP at 176*. So you want it there for performance. However I recomend over 200* for every day because of wear and tear.

 

I was removing the condensor, evaporator, and a few other things out of an old van the other day because it was leaking. I wasnt told that die was put into the system. Somehow a line came loose and exploded. I was covered in green **** along with the garage. lol it was funny after we got the vette outa the garage

 

ya should have turned on a few black lights and had a party.

 

sounds good to me. i may have to get one of those switches. were do you get them and how much are they. do you have any PT#s? what setting do you use at the track? the high setting?