Few Valvetrain Questions before i place order..
1st Question: At what point are non self-aligning Roller Rockers needed. If running these are safer i will spend the extra $30 for guideplates. Ive been told by a few people most people run self-aligning. The whole valvetrain is being redone so if its better to do non self-aligning then thats the way i will go.
2nd Question: Should i go with the Titanium Retainers over the Steel Retainers? I know Titanium is better but is it really worth it?
3rd Question: What Gaskets/bolts will i need when putting everything back together? What Gasket sets do you guys recommend. Also is it just the head bolts that need replaced?
4th Question: The 52mm and 58mm are the same price. With a 22x/23x cam will the 58mm hurt performance? Id like to get the 58mm just to plan for the future but if it may hurt performance then i wouldnt buy it.
Thanks for the help.
2nd Question: Should i go with the Titanium Retainers over the Steel Retainers? I know Titanium is better but is it really worth it?
3rd Question: What Gaskets/bolts will i need when putting everything back together? What Gasket sets do you guys recommend. Also is it just the head bolts that need replaced?
4th Question: The 52mm and 58mm are the same price. With a 22x/23x cam will the 58mm hurt performance? Id like to get the 58mm just to plan for the future but if it may hurt performance then i wouldnt buy it.
Thanks for the help.
1. The cost of guideplates will be offset by cheaper and more plentiful rocker selection, still might end up spending a little more after the new studs but they are more stable and quieter. On the guideplates use the GM ones NOT aftermarket I know Comp specifically will not work and will grind on the pushrods. If you have a 96-7 car your pushrods are not hardened and you would need to get hardened ones. If going through the trouble of buying rockers plates and maybe studs I would upgrade to 7/16th as the price will be the same. If budget is a real concern then SA will work.
2. What springs? If beehives then titanium offers very little advantage. If the springs you are going to run are nearing their limit with whatever cam you run then titanium can make their life easier and ensure they do the trick, if going a little overkill on the springs then lighter retainers would do little for you.
3. Sounds like a whole head swap too? The Mr. Gasket head gaskets are the thinnest available for good compression and are also very reasonably priced, Felpro intake gaskets are hard to beat
4. Have you considered a stocker rebored to 52mm they are much cheaper and are less hassle than aftermarkets.
2. What springs? If beehives then titanium offers very little advantage. If the springs you are going to run are nearing their limit with whatever cam you run then titanium can make their life easier and ensure they do the trick, if going a little overkill on the springs then lighter retainers would do little for you.
3. Sounds like a whole head swap too? The Mr. Gasket head gaskets are the thinnest available for good compression and are also very reasonably priced, Felpro intake gaskets are hard to beat
4. Have you considered a stocker rebored to 52mm they are much cheaper and are less hassle than aftermarkets.
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
1. The cost of guideplates will be offset by cheaper and more plentiful rocker selection, still might end up spending a little more after the new studs but they are more stable and quieter. On the guideplates use the GM ones NOT aftermarket I know Comp specifically will not work and will grind on the pushrods. If you have a 96-7 car your pushrods are not hardened and you would need to get hardened ones. If going through the trouble of buying rockers plates and maybe studs I would upgrade to 7/16th as the price will be the same. If budget is a real concern then SA will work.
2. What springs? If beehives then titanium offers very little advantage. If the springs you are going to run are nearing their limit with whatever cam you run then titanium can make their life easier and ensure they do the trick, if going a little overkill on the springs then lighter retainers would do little for you.
3. Sounds like a whole head swap too? The Mr. Gasket head gaskets are the thinnest available for good compression and are also very reasonably priced, Felpro intake gaskets are hard to beat
4. Have you considered a stocker rebored to 52mm they are much cheaper and are less hassle than aftermarkets.
2. What springs? If beehives then titanium offers very little advantage. If the springs you are going to run are nearing their limit with whatever cam you run then titanium can make their life easier and ensure they do the trick, if going a little overkill on the springs then lighter retainers would do little for you.
3. Sounds like a whole head swap too? The Mr. Gasket head gaskets are the thinnest available for good compression and are also very reasonably priced, Felpro intake gaskets are hard to beat
4. Have you considered a stocker rebored to 52mm they are much cheaper and are less hassle than aftermarkets.
who do you know ports lt1 throttle bodies? I have looked before but failed to find anyone who did them.
Im running Pro-Magnum 1.6 RR's. The 7/16" studs will fit or do they have to be done by a machine shop? The lift off the cam is going to be near .569 and i will be running the beehives. I was thinking about going with the entire GM gasket set for like $230. Does sound kind of expensive to me. This is a head/cam swap gasket kit.
I got a complete engine gasket kit from summit for about 180 I think..I think the brand was sealed power but they are actually felpro gaskets..As for rockers I had sa rockers and the tabs eventually got a lil chewed up even with preload being fine and all. I now have pro mag nsa rockers with gm guideplates. DO NOT RUN ANYTHING BUT GM GUIDEPLATES. Thats the best advice you can take
Originally Posted by RUNanLt1
Im running Pro-Magnum 1.6 RR's. The 7/16" studs will fit or do they have to be done by a machine shop? The lift off the cam is going to be near .569 and i will be running the beehives. I was thinking about going with the entire GM gasket set for like $230. Does sound kind of expensive to me. This is a head/cam swap gasket kit.
I believe the Mr. Gasket head gaskets are only $35 or so and Felpro intake gaskets are maybe $20, timing set gasket kit with all timing cover seals is another $20, valveseals another $20 but choose the right ones to optomize retainer clearance the "blue band" ones are good from GM or CM, TB gaskets and the like are just a few bucks.
The GM kit will have stockish .039 gaskets as will the Felpro the Mr. Gasket head gaskets are .026 and cheaper. I know it sounds mightly thin but the stock b-body gaskets are .029 and the bottomends are exactly the same f-body and b-body so no clearance issues with that thin gasket but it will help quench and compression.
The GM kit will have stockish .039 gaskets as will the Felpro the Mr. Gasket head gaskets are .026 and cheaper. I know it sounds mightly thin but the stock b-body gaskets are .029 and the bottomends are exactly the same f-body and b-body so no clearance issues with that thin gasket but it will help quench and compression.

