Heres what I have found. My 02s say I am running rich but my plugs say the car is waay lean. I dont get it. This is with two sets of injectors so I know its not just a leaky injector or something. Every plug is lean and my header primaries glow. Since I dont have a wideband what I did was turn the key to acc position to the 02s heat up then once they were hot enough to take readings I started the car(cold start) my 02s were reading right around 900 mv which would mean rich. They werent bouncing around yet because it was still in open loop. ANy idea what could cause this. Its pretty confusing. When in closed loop my short term integrators are below 128 which means its still trying to pull fuel. I dunno what gives. All sensors and motor is new but if anything sticks out in your mind let me know.

 

Are they o2's new?

 

drive the car around. Don't just let it sit. A lot of times when you sit at idle it will just set you back in open loop. Can you make a log for me to look at? What I generaly like is a cold start idle log, Then a idle log after driving, then a part throttle cruise log and finaly a WOT log.


i would also list ALL your mods.

 

well the prob is that I cant drive it because it was hesitating and stumbling real bad so the only log I have is a cold idle to closed loop warm idle I will send it to you anyway. The only thing I noticed is the maf is 20gps at idle and that seems pretty high to me even for a 950rpm idle

 

Oh also HBH what is your email or can you email me at 97m6formula@gmail.com and IL reply the the .csv file(excel)...
Mods are
383 Fully forged shortblock 11:5:1 compression
Jet Hot LT headers, Stock throttle body on car now, Stock maf, new o2s, low mileage injectors30#,1.6 roller rockers,236/245 114lsa .569/.580, Ported heads and intake,its a 6 speed with mcleod street twin..electric waterpump...New MAp sensor, 02 sensors, knock sensor, tps sensor,both coolant temp sensors,plugs, wires are new but I saw them crossfiring(arcing on eachother) so I have ordered new ones already..The pcm has a base tune from speed inc and I also tried a base from www.madz28.com(Ion).. Car was converted to obd1.. Also I checked for vaccuum leaks and couldnt find any. I also have set valves 3 different ways(0 lash cold) (1/8th warm) 1/16thwarm) nothing made a difference..

EDIT: heres a link to download it

My idle log

 

send it to hbhracing@yahoo.com

I don't have excel on this comp but I think that I have a lap top somewhere around that does. I'll see what I can find. But yes 20 grams/second at idle is a little high but we wil see what happens.

 

one thing is that the TPS voltage is a "little" high. I would rather see between 0.70-0.75V.

a few things that I need to know. How are these units expressed? the baro is in units of BAR right? Is teh MAP value expressed in KPA? are the coolant and MAT on the far right expressed in degrees?

 

Yes they are in degrees celsius and the map is in KPA I believe. Sorry I know its kind of confusing, as it is for me too

 

Thats alright. I'm getting by. Lemme convert the C* to F* and run some formulas on the Map and KPA and see what I can come up with.

 

ok.. what ISN'T wrong.

Both temp sensors seem to be working fine. and thats about it


Here is the bigest issue that I see. Your TPS Never registered any change in throttle angle. you were idleing at 950 and at one point slowly got it up to 2200 RPM. the whole time the TPS voltage stayed at 0.82 Volts. I know that the motor found this RPM because of teh change in Map signal but the TPS had no idea that you were opening up the motor. So because of this nor did the computer.

Is it possible that when you installed your new TPS that you didn't get the arm set up into the slot? That might explane the high volts and no movment. This is teh first issue that I would resolve for the reason that so many things are dependent on TPS voltage. If it was an auto it would be even worse.

aside from that I see issues with IAC, fuel trims, MAP readings etc. If I am right on these convertions and they are expressed in the units that I calculated your only running about 9.5Hg of vacuum at idle. Does that sound right??

 

yes sir I am only at about 9.5-10 inches at idle but I ahvent found a vaccuum leak anywhere I use to get 13inches with my old setup(224/230 112lsa)...so i figured maybe 10 was right. Also I didnt even notice the tps problem because when I would have engine off key on and pressed pedal it would register tps voltage and position but after looking at the log it looks messed up. What did it say about fuel trims?

 

well, I don't really want to speculate untill teh TPS issue is resolved. I would "guess" that the vacuum is in part the problem of teh cam, but I would think you would still be around 14 15 Hg or so with it. If you hooked up a vac gauge is the needle steady or would it jump around a lot? either way you might consider a vac reserve canister to help out. At least I know that my vacuum calculations are right


were any changes made to the throttle body? Idle set screw ever messed with? Unhook the throttle cable and make sure that it's not bidning and holding open. Then read TPS voltage to see if it goes down. If not I would consider re setting your base RPM to get idle ad IAC counts in range and then see where teh TPS is and if still off slot the bolt holes and get it to about 0.70 volts..

Once that I am satisfied that the TPS, IAC and idle settings are good we can move into reasons for the vacuum loss and fuel trims.

 

Hey,
My vaccuum is steady there arent fluctuations like if I had a bent valve or misadjusted rocker. I am waiting for my new wires to get here and then I will make another log, I will also be doing a compression test this weekend just to make sure. Ill double check the tps sensor too. Most of this stuff should be done today so Ill let you know. Thanks for your help man I really appreciate it

 

no problem.. It's a little general but at the very end of this article I have the procedure for resetting base idle that you can follow. When there are so many things that I see out of wack on a log it's best to just fix the easy stuff first to get it out of the way and then figure out the rest. If I see your IAC, TPS and RPM dead on we can move on to the harder stuff. here is the article. http://www.mainstreamtopics.com/foru...showtopic=1315