Too high of a stall!!
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I learned a valuable lesson yesterday. My car had a 3400-3800 precision industries vigilante convertor up until yesterday. The car would absolutely kill just about anything in 1st gear, but 2nd gear was not so impressive, and 3rd was better than 2nd, but not much. I have had some lockup issues with this convertor, so I took it to my trans guy yesterday. His response was "You a**, I've been trying to tell you that you have too much stall." He talked me into a 2200-2300 precision industriess convertor, and holy sh**, 2nd and 3rd are amazingly strong. 1st is slightly slower, but then again in all actuality its not, because all I did before was roast my 295's through the whole gear. The car now comes out of the hole with the tires in the air, and when it bangs second, their right back off of the ground, and going into 3rd has never been firmer. The car went from being a rocket in 1st and not as much in 2nd and 3rd, to being a little more controllable in 1st, and having absolutely endless power all the way to fourth gear. So I guess what I'm getting at, is don't make the same mistake that I did and go for the biggest stall you can find, do your research and get the right stall for your setup. I should have some numbers for ya from the strip, and I'll post the improved times on here after I run it.
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Originally Posted by Bizzzatch350
I dont know man, I put a 3200 in my 93, feels great on the street and I got awesome gains from it. I got real use to the converter, infact stock and small stalls feel annoying to me now
Hey man, did you have to get a tune to run this? Ive got a 3200 in my closet (for a 93 Z) but haven't put it in because i heard it might not work right with stock tune, something about a stall wall???
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Originally Posted by resurrectedz28
Hey man, did you have to get a tune to run this? Ive got a 3200 in my closet (for a 93 Z) but haven't put it in because i heard it might not work right with stock tune, something about a stall wall???
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Originally Posted by Vendetta
You'll be fine, 93s have the 4L60 hydraulic transmission, not controlled by a computer. I'm pretty sure it's only the 94s that have this problem.
Sounds good, thanks for the reply, looks like ill save up for a cooler and a shift kit and try and throw it in one of these days.
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Originally Posted by resurrectedz28
Sounds good, thanks for the reply, looks like ill save up for a cooler and a shift kit and try and throw it in one of these days.
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They are definitely the **** on A4 cars.
#13
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Well 1st off we must seperate the LS1 owner comments on stall and the LT1 owners. Look at any dyno sheet from either car and it has been proven time and time again that LS1 cars make power a little further up the rpm curve. They may need that stall (in the 3000 range).
I have a lt1 383, its decently built, all the bolt on mods. I just got my car back from the shop cus my tranny died (pressure selinoid killed the clutches). I previously had a 2000 rpm rated Pro Torque stall in the car and the car ON STOCK SUSPENSION, nothing better, nothing removed. and a pair of drag radials (nitto) does consistant 1.7X 60 foots all the time. I did a off idle launch and she hooked.
On the street it was a pleasure to drive, the car nose would jump if i just goose it.
But as the car progressed, I wanted a little more, not too much but just a little more. I got pro-torque to make me a 2500 rpm stall for the tranny. It also had the anti ballooning plate installed so when I use n20, it will not expand the case.
I just took her out yesterday and I can feel a difference, takes a few more rpms before she starts to move, its noticable, vs the 2000, but if I stab that gas, the car JUMPS. 1st gear is awesome.
I dont think in a lt1, ESPECIALLY a 383 do you need s stupidly high stall. Even if the car is a track car specifically, what you gain in 1st gear (first 60 or so feet) you lose on the topend as far as MPH due the slippage.
If you wondering what stall to get, talk to the guys who run the car and know what they are talking about. What goes for one combonation does not go for another, bigger is not always better.
For everyones information stock stall is 1235 rpms, you can read it off of the stock converter. The car my show another number in the crappy tach we have, but put the same converter i now have in a 350 cid motor and the stall will be different, so just dont go on numbers, match the converter to the combo.
I have a lt1 383, its decently built, all the bolt on mods. I just got my car back from the shop cus my tranny died (pressure selinoid killed the clutches). I previously had a 2000 rpm rated Pro Torque stall in the car and the car ON STOCK SUSPENSION, nothing better, nothing removed. and a pair of drag radials (nitto) does consistant 1.7X 60 foots all the time. I did a off idle launch and she hooked.
On the street it was a pleasure to drive, the car nose would jump if i just goose it.
But as the car progressed, I wanted a little more, not too much but just a little more. I got pro-torque to make me a 2500 rpm stall for the tranny. It also had the anti ballooning plate installed so when I use n20, it will not expand the case.
I just took her out yesterday and I can feel a difference, takes a few more rpms before she starts to move, its noticable, vs the 2000, but if I stab that gas, the car JUMPS. 1st gear is awesome.
I dont think in a lt1, ESPECIALLY a 383 do you need s stupidly high stall. Even if the car is a track car specifically, what you gain in 1st gear (first 60 or so feet) you lose on the topend as far as MPH due the slippage.
If you wondering what stall to get, talk to the guys who run the car and know what they are talking about. What goes for one combonation does not go for another, bigger is not always better.
For everyones information stock stall is 1235 rpms, you can read it off of the stock converter. The car my show another number in the crappy tach we have, but put the same converter i now have in a 350 cid motor and the stall will be different, so just dont go on numbers, match the converter to the combo.
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Thank you very much BlackScreaminMachine. You hit the nail on the head. I lost just a hair of speed in first gear, but second and third gains were phenominal. We have a line marked on a road near me which is roughly a quarter mile. On my 3400-3800 stall, I would cross it at roughly 116 or so, now I cross it at right on 120. The only change I made to go from 116 to 120 was the stall. My car makes an unbelievable amount of power out of the hole, and the 3400 was 100% overkill for my motor setup. On my buddies LS1 cars, they come out of the hole like absolute dogs compared to mine, however they are very strong on top end, which would be why they need the stall speed.
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what abotu a stock ci motor...i cant put my 383 in til i pay my brother back for buying it for me. so for now im running on a stock ci. i will have le2 package full bolt ons and 373's hwo do i fugre out what stall to run.?
#16
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well talk to a torque converter company IF you desire a custom stall. I mean ball parking it with your car, no more than a 2,800 rpm rated stall. But again talk to a manufacture and say these are your mods, this is the rear gear and this is the intended purpous of the car. I mean a track car wouldnt require a lock up converter where as a street car will greatly benefit from it.
custom stall can cost upwards of 500-800$
custom stall can cost upwards of 500-800$
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pigpen, how much did that 4k compared to a 3,200 help your 60'?
when I get back from kuwait, I have ordered a dynamic 4500 stall for my turbo 400 thats waiting for me, I swapped to a bigger cam and my 60' fell off, so I dont think 3,200 was enough, so I went with what dynamic suggested, a 4500
when I get back from kuwait, I have ordered a dynamic 4500 stall for my turbo 400 thats waiting for me, I swapped to a bigger cam and my 60' fell off, so I dont think 3,200 was enough, so I went with what dynamic suggested, a 4500
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Sorry, no track times since the switch, but there's a definite improvement in 1st and I havent noticed any 2nd and 3rd gear SOTP losses, like 94strokedz mentioned. IMO, it's been much more fun to drive since the swap - easier to keep the rpms up, so overall the car is more responsive.
And since the blower install, it has worked even better - I'm seeing approx 75% of peak boost right off the convertor
The cam I had been using is very similar to yours - CC XE 236/248 114LSA - right now the motors out - forging everything up so I can spray and boost
And since the blower install, it has worked even better - I'm seeing approx 75% of peak boost right off the convertor
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The cam I had been using is very similar to yours - CC XE 236/248 114LSA - right now the motors out - forging everything up so I can spray and boost
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