hows it going. im new to thie site and i just bought a police package caprice with the lt1 in it. i took it to milan dragway yesterday to run it and it only ran a 15.21. i want to get it down in the 14's. i was just wondering what kind of setups people have done to thier caprices and impalas, such as headers, heads, cam, exhaust and what not. i was also wondering if their is any kind of little mods to and cheap mods to make it a little quicker. any kind of help would be great.

thanks alot
Ryan

 

This is a good site for the engine but for your car you want to go to http://www.impalassforum.com/cgi-bin...c&f=6&t=000436 that particular thread will get you a good start and the forum as a whole is THE place to go when modding your b-body. Your times already were decent for the current weather so it sounds like you have a good start. The f-body community as a whole makes a lot of bad assumptions and statments about the b-body motor, there are guys who know what they are talking about but they are the exeption. Many will tell you to swap heads, ignoring the fact that your iron heads outflow most of the aluminums and in the end neither iron or aluminum are worth swaping to stock for stock so I am not saying f-bodies should swap to stock iron heads. They also knock the cam as being too small but it makes more torque at a lower rpm and doesn't give up much HP so in reality it was just a better match to the b-body than the f-body cam would have been. It also makes that slightly lower peak HP on 87 octane as opposed to 91 octane, custom tuning for 91 on a b-body motor will make more power than stock 91 tuning on a f-body motor. The whole bottomend is also identical.

 

thanks alot for the help

 

go with a 6 spd conversion

 

Hey Ryan,

I have a '96 SS. It's a great car...big, sort of fast, hauls lots of stuff/people, good mileage, dependable, and doesn't look too bad.

There are lots of things you can do to the LT1 and the suspension. Along with the "big board" (the SS Forum), check out http://www.regionofdoom.com for a really good email listserve. Also, MISSL (Michigan SS Lovers) has regular meetings.

You will want to change your brake bias, too. Check out my site for that: http://www.ihp.com and find the combi-bolt. The front end will stop diving every time you hit the brakes. The bolt changes front-to-back bias from what it is now (5-95 percent), to more like 40/60...where it should be.

Let me know if you have any questions...

 

stock on most cars is 90/10 unless a panic stop. The Stealth bolt changes it to a 70/30 or somewhat closer to 65/35

Matt

 

once again thanks guys for helping me out and if anyone has anything else to add go for it im all hears when it comes to this. i havnt had a v8 let alone a chevy. so anything you guys explain or tell me about is alot of help.

thanks for all the help
ryan

 

Ryan,

For the summer (maybe winter, too), you could do the throttle-body bypass. That is marginal, if even measurable, HP gain. Changing to 1.6 Comp, self-aligning roller-rockers will give you just a little more top end. You might switch to hardened pushrods, while you are in there. Of course, get a cold-air intake and 2.5"+ exhaust with X-over and some Flowmasters. Maybe some high-flow cats. Some folks run with just the resonators (no mufflers). A 160 degree thermostat is available, too.

With a new intake, exhaust, rockers, TB-bypass, thermo, and programming from Bryan Herter @ PCM For Less, you should pick up 30-40 HP (maybe more).

You'll want to be selective with your head/cam choices. These cars are heavy and need low-end torque to get them moving. The stock specs are 260 HP, but 320 torque. My H/C are stock...but I am thinking about the "Hot Cam" and some AFRs with my ever-closer rebuild (I have 180k miles).

Other little things...there's a drip-hose for the A/C that can be pointed to drip on your engine on some builds. If the hose is gone, or plugged, it will leak onto the firewall or into the floor. You'll want to get a longer piece of hose and attach to the elbo on the firewall.

The rear diff gasket might need to be changed. The oilers for the axles may be covered. Get the Felpro gasket and make sure it fits properly. Use only GM lube and posi conditioner for the diff, unless you know of a better fluid.

If you are going to road-race, or cone-kill with your 9C1, you will want to replace the PS reservoir with a metal can before every going out. The fluid heats up, melts the cap, the fluid pours out and you'll fry your pump in no time flat. Ask me how I know. Get the underdrive crank pulley and overdrive alternator pulley, too.

If not needed by your SMOG people, do the air pump delete. You can get a SMOG sticker for it, if needed to pass visual inspection.

If you have to replace the water pump, protect the opti-spark from getting soaked. It will ruin it. Or, just replace the opti while you are in there. May as well do plug wires and plugs, too. The first sign of the water pump going is, oddly, your power steering will struggle when cold. This is not the P/S pump going out, rather, it's drops of antifreeze getting on the serp-belt and slipping on the P/S pulley.

You can remove the "home base" intake by plugging the hole in the elbo with a hockey puck. Yes, hockey puck...they should be cheap about now. Otherwise, get the F-Body elbo (without the hole). All of the Corvette dress can be made to fit, if you want to clean up the looks.

That's about all I can think of for now. Be sure to hit the boards listed above for more information...

 

The only time he'd need hardened pushrods is if he has a 96. The 94-95s had hardened pushrods. While he's in there, he should change out the factory weak valve springs. 1.6 Rockers are equal in a way to a mini cam swap. You're going to increase lift across the board, but yes after 3k rpm is when you'll notice a diff.

Not to be picky, but I see you own a 96 Impala SS. You gotta get your facts straight. Our B-bodies come factory w 260hp and 330ft lbs of tq.

 

TB bypass is fine in the winter mine has been through several Wisconsin winters already. The stock cats are not a restriction so don't waste money replacing them unless they fail.
Flowmaster is falling out of favor because people actually began testing flow, about the only reason to consider them is if you like the sound as that is about the only thing they offer.
Harderned pushrods are only required if going to non-SA rockers and well that requires head removal and machining, whatever is in there will serve you fine. On the rockers everyone is far too quick to say 1.6, my suggestion is to think about future plans, if no cam in the future then absolutely 1.6, if going with a cam later many will not accept 1.6 on the exhaust side without causing clearance issues at the head. Not that 1.5s are best either just something to think about before jumping on one part.

 

Excuuuuuse me! I took the time to write that post and that's all you could say? Certainly, you have a more beneficial offering than, "...get your facts straight". We can't all be as perfect as you, buffman. BTW, congratulations. That's one of the shortest, most popular and most redundant statements I have seen on this board.

Seriously, I don't mind being corrected. However, I am certain I provided a whole bunch of "straight" facts for the guy. WoooHooo! I had 10 more lbs. torque than I thought, when it was stock!

That's true about the pushrods...and useful info. He may, or may not, want to swap springs. Clearly yes, if doing a cam...not absolutely, if just changing rockers. Good timing to do them simultaneously, though...especially if replacing spark plugs. LittleLT1, drop me a line if you want to know where I got them and what I paid for my rockers, springs and pushrods. Obviously, don't bother with valve stuff at all, if getting heads soon.

I am sure there are some other B-Body owners out there that will post more constructive advise than the factless crap I wrote above. Sorry for the rant, LittleLT1. But, maybe you should send all of your question directly to buttman. Otherwise, he'll just have to lurk and police all of the strings on this board.

 

I am near Lake Tahoe and no ill effects from the TB-bypass. Hmmm...didn't know that about Flowmasters. So Flowmasters don't Flowmaster better than stock? I have had my dual-chambers (40 Series?) for about 4 years. It felt a little faster when I put them on. Maybe it was just the audio. They may not be necessary, but I prefer the concept of hardened pushrods...unless there's some evidence that non-hardened are better in the '96 LT1. Agreed on the rockers/cam/heads. In fact, some folks have installed two ratios; 1.6 for intake and 1.5 for exhaust. Last I checked (a year ago?), 1.52 was available also. Though, I have no experience with them. I imagine there are marginal gains in dependability and HP just through the rollers (over the stamped rocker).

There's a minor clearance mod to the valve covers required, if you go to 1.52 or 1.6 Comp Pro-Mags. Don't know if so, using others. After checking my notes, you should also get valve stem seals, if you do the springs - about $30 and only adds a few minutes to the job.

 

well sorry to get your panties in a knot. I betcha you'd get on here to correct me If I was telling people you can put honda civic Motors in an Ultima GTR.

like 96capricemgr said, Hardened Pushrods are only necessary if running Non S/a rockers. Prolly the only reason Gm went to non hardened pushrods in 96 was to save money. Then again 96 b-bodies had slightly better flowing iron heads but a somewhat smaller cam.

Really if he wants to be in the 14s he prolly just needs a good day w/ cool dry air. Now if he wants to run 14s all day long then all bolt on's welcome.

I'd save the PCM programming for last so you're not updating constantly.

-Do the TB bypass. small gains, but worth it in the long run (makes swapping TBs easier)

-Get a Cold air INtake like Scott mentioned. Skip the K&N garbage, See Dan @ clear Image Automotive for his Cold AIr intake or his SSRI setup.

-2.5" Exhaust is way more than enough for even a modded B-body. like Scott I recommend an xpipe, and instead of flowjunks look into some Magnaflows or perhaps Spintechs.

- Do the 160 thermo if you want.

-Also if you're adding exhaust and decide to do ROller rockers THe lt4 Knock Module is a good idea.

-do gears. A lot of guys like 3.42s for highway mileage, but i've seen people who love 3.73s more. Some guys who don't do highway driving even go to 4.10s. Only area of concern w/ 3.73s and numerically higher gears that there is a chance the stock DS will vibrate. Buying an aftermarket DS a majority of the time cures that problem.

- do rockers and springs at the same time. Our stock valve springs are weak from teh factory and over time can develop valve float over 4800rpm. THere's no need to change plugs while changing valve springs, because you can use the TDC method which makes life a whole lot easier. Rockers I recommend Comp Cams Pro Mags and for valve springs on a stock cam Combination Motorsports sells the perfect valve spring. CM 614 Springs, or if you don't mind spending a little $$$$ Beehives will work on iron heads using the correct application. Might as well do the valve stem seals. COmbination has ones that work great.

-There's nothing like a set of headers. My advice is to skip the shorty headers that Summit or Edelbrock sells and get some mid lenth or long tube headers. Clear Image Automotive makes some of the best headers around for the b-body, and they just even came out w/ a budget priced set of headers to compete w/ the afterburner headers people swap in. The problem w/ afterburners are they are not made for our car and will require clearaning, such as bending AC lines to get them to fit.

-might as well buy yourself a sticky pair of tires.

-aftermarket lower control arms help handling and help put power down to the pavement better. BMR, GLobal West, are a couple companies who make products.

- You can always upgrade your TC to a high Stall small diameter one. Edge, West Coast Converters, yank, vigilante, are a few companies who make high stall TCs for the 4l60-es. I personally would rather go w/ a shop who customizes your TC for your application rather than buying something from B&M. If you're on a budget SLP makes a slightly higher than stock stall TC that will provide decent gains.

-you can always go to a larger TB such as a 52mm unit and even swap in the F-body MAF as it's larger than the stock b-body unit.


That's a start. All that's more than enough to slaughter 14s and be in the 13s.

Matt

 

No worreis, mate.Now, there's some good content.