Issues w/ Solid Roller setup
Issues w/ Solid Roller setup Ive searched the forums trying to find simular issues that Im curently having.
Watching my scanmaster I have between 2-4 degrees of timing being taken out @ Idle. At WOT a max of 7 degrees is taken out which is what my PCM has been programmed to take out max. The catch is I have no Knock counts and I just replaced my KM with a LT4 KM.
Any Ideas??? Please Help
Also watching my BLM's I do have the common as we all know it w/ larger cams,
SPLIT BLM's.
My L BLM's are reading 108 At Idle and my Right side is reading 132. WTH is the deal here. 02 readings are simular, between the 2. Cell16 issue.
Please dont hesitate to voice your opinions.
Thanks
Brentt
Watching my scanmaster I have between 2-4 degrees of timing being taken out @ Idle. At WOT a max of 7 degrees is taken out which is what my PCM has been programmed to take out max. The catch is I have no Knock counts and I just replaced my KM with a LT4 KM.
Any Ideas??? Please Help
Also watching my BLM's I do have the common as we all know it w/ larger cams,
SPLIT BLM's.
My L BLM's are reading 108 At Idle and my Right side is reading 132. WTH is the deal here. 02 readings are simular, between the 2. Cell16 issue.
Please dont hesitate to voice your opinions.
Thanks
Brentt
I had a similar question before and I think the ultimate response was that the PCM has some "ghost retard." Are you using stock PCM? I could always see a 3-4 degree difference over my parameters and my logs. As far as BLM's go, I always had a pretty easy time with them. When I changed induction (homemade ram air), my right side BLM's were really high and the left bank was pretty much a consistent 128. I richened up my injector constant and it fixed it. If your offsets match your injectors, just try tweaking the MAF table or simply moving the injector constant around. That's pretty much the only two things you can mess with. Don't rule out header leaks and whatnot. Mechanical problems can easily throw off your BLM's.
ITs stock LT1 PCM but the car has been dyno tuned. When the car was tuned it wasnt pulling timing. I have over 55 pulls on the dyno w/ this setup. A&S had devoted quite abit of time in the tuning. I have wondered other than the Knock sensor, what other calculations does the PCM take in consideration to take out timing?? If it is this "Ghost Retard", Can it be resolved by replacing the PCM?
Thanks for your input.
Brentt
Thanks for your input.
Brentt
Hmmm. If it has been dyno tuned, then why are the BLM's split? Looks like they would have tuned that out. As far as the "ghost retard," maybe I shouldn't have called it that. It's not really retard, but let's just say the ignition isn't gonna produce as much advance as the parameter in your table. I've talked to a few people about this and that was the conclusion. You could unplug your knock sensor and set everything to zero (so it doesn't retard anything based on the sensor flopping around) and then see if timing is affected the same. I don't run a KS anyway. If it didn't do it before, and the KM is the only variable, then it has to be doing something. If you decide it's gonna run 7* less than you want all the time, then just go back into your table and bump up your advance until you get it to where you want it. If the parameter says 51* but you're only showing 36*, then 36* is all that you have.
At the time of the Dyno tuning it didnt have these Issues. It was tuned back in early May of this year. The adjustment on the main spark table doesnt seem like a bad idea. I constantly watch my Knock counts w/ Scan master and @ idle , WOT I never see knock counts dont move. I really dont think its knock related. I even replaced the knock sensor. Now, just to prove the knock sensor works, I can set at Idle and rev to 6000 and get a small bit of knock counts, but under a load I recieve no knock.
Probably wouldn't hurt to double check all of your intake and exhaust connections. Perhaps a gasket blew out because I don't see any reason why BLM's would be jumping around and timing being retarded if you've not made any PCM changes. Check your MAP and TPS sensors cuz I don't see why you would be having these problems.
Originally Posted by dhdenney
Probably wouldn't hurt to double check all of your intake and exhaust connections. Perhaps a gasket blew out because I don't see any reason why BLM's would be jumping around and timing being retarded if you've not made any PCM changes. Check your MAP and TPS sensors cuz I don't see why you would be having these problems.
MAP seems alittle high. At Idle its 60-65kpa, but I would think that to be expected the size cam im running. Im pulling 10in of vacume at idle.
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What about WOT? TPS should be about 4.6-4.7 at WOT but I imagine that would be OK. I'm just trying to hit all the bases. MAP at idle is fine cuz mine idles in that range. Larger cams just idle at higher manifold pressures. Should be seeing 97-99 kPa MAP values at WOT too. Have you checked for intake and exhaust leaks yet?
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Originally Posted by dhdenney
What about WOT? TPS should be about 4.6-4.7 at WOT but I imagine that would be OK. I'm just trying to hit all the bases. MAP at idle is fine cuz mine idles in that range. Larger cams just idle at higher manifold pressures. Should be seeing 97-99 kPa MAP values at WOT too. Have you checked for intake and exhaust leaks yet?
