Can you change the rod bearings and crankshaft on an LT1 by dropping the oil pan. . .or do you have to pull the engine?

 

Forget it.

1. Taking the oil pan off while the engine is still mounted= a bitch
2. Unbolting the flywheel from the clutch/torque converter= a bigger bitch
3. Unbolting the balancer, water pump, opti, timing chain cover=mega bitch
4. Maneuvering the rods/pistons around to clear the crossmember= might
take a miracle.

Just out of curiosity, why do you want to change just the crank? Did it snap?

 

Oh yeah, forgot add in there that the "forget it" part was in reference to pulling the crank out of the bottom of the block. You'd cut your headaches in half by just jacking the car up and unbolting the crossmember, dropping the whole assembly down in one piece and have it out in the open where you could operate more freely.

Just my 2 cents.

 

I was told that I needed to change the rod bearings and the crankshaft. I have to order a "crankshaft kit". I priced on for $144.

 

If it's JUST the rod bearings you're needing replaced, then that simplifies things alot because you won't have to remove the crank. If you can get the oil pan off, just work your way from back to front rotating the crank to whatever position you need to get a wrench up in there to remove the rod caps. Just remove and replace the bearings and rod caps one by one. Also, you might want to see about gaining access to a lift. Hope that helps.

 

Better get a second opinion on that. No matter how you slice it, it's a big undertaking. If your oil pressure is good and you don't have that many miles on the motor, I wouldn't think you would need bearings.

 

My oil pressure seems to be ok, and I have 118,000 miles on the motor. I'll take it to a professional shop Monday, and see what they have to say. Maybe this will give me a reason to forge parts of my bottom end.

What are the most important parts of a bottom end to forge. . .say if I was to go forced induction in the future?