LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Pic of my new project (LT4 w/ "E" victor intake etc)

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Old 10-20-2005, 11:20 AM
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That set up is FKN sick!!!!!!!
Old 10-26-2005, 03:24 PM
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looks good
Old 10-26-2005, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Tony Shepherd
Ok...........after a few delays on my car........I finally have the ball rolling again. Should be dynoing it within 2-weeks.
Had a chance to get it on the dyno & tune it yet, Tony?
Old 10-26-2005, 10:26 PM
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Ed I have a question, how much of a difference would it be tunning a LTX intake versuses a Single plain with a 90mmTB setup on the LT1.

Also, did you have runner length added to your intake Ed, I remember you going into detail about it in this same thread, but just trying to get some comparisons with it and a Single plain (I know they have to be similiar)
Thanks
Old 10-26-2005, 11:16 PM
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Ed.........throwing it on the dyno this weekend!! Numbers will be posted soon.
Old 10-30-2005, 10:33 PM
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Ok.....................................I have dyno results!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Let me just say first that this motor needs to see 8000+ rpms to make its power band!! Ed Wright is correct..............the stock PCM shuts the injectors down at 7250 rpms. THIS SUCKKS! The power curve was on a steep uphill climb and then just starts banging out like a rev limiter!!
I could see 75+ more horsepower if I could rev past 7250.

Anywaz............it put down 490 rwhp up to 7250 rpms. I noticed the power band really starts to pull about 6000 rpms and never starts to taper off.........even at the 7250 mark it is an upward curve. Its definetly time for a F.A.S.T. system. I really think we will see 550-600 rwhp with this motor up to 8000 rpms....N/A.

I am pulling this stock PCM off asap!!

Btw: I would post the torque numbers but with a 4600 stall on a non-loaded dyno...........it made the numbers low. Converter could not flash properly with no load. (I need to put a stock converter back in to tune)!!

Also tried to spray a few passes but have some stumbling issues.

I will keep everyone posted when I get the FAST management system and get the nitrous bugs worked out.
Old 10-30-2005, 10:37 PM
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Atleast you tried and that car ran its *** off for having a stock PCM, maybe now your going with a FAST you can also look in to getting rid of the Opti. Good luck man!
Old 10-30-2005, 10:54 PM
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Good numbers man, that SR of yours needs to see that High RPM for sure. What was the Air fuel ratio, have you guys tuned it. I would still think the numbers would be higher though in my opinion. I think if you get some bugs worked out it the numbers will be even more impressive. Awsome job. What type of Rearend you running, and did you say your stall converter was locked??
Mustang or Dynojet
Old 10-30-2005, 10:58 PM
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Is this intake manifold bolton? For the lLt1 style heads. Im geussing its made to fit?
Old 10-31-2005, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by T/A KID
Good numbers man, that SR of yours needs to see that High RPM for sure. What was the Air fuel ratio, have you guys tuned it. I would still think the numbers would be higher though in my opinion. I think if you get some bugs worked out it the numbers will be even more impressive. Awsome job. What type of Rearend you running, and did you say your stall converter was locked??
Mustang or Dynojet
T/A KID
The air/fuel was around 12.0:1. We tuned it to the best we could in the short amount of time we had. Moe Bailey does a hell of a job tuning. Yes the numbers should be higher but keep in mind this intake is for 4500-8500 rpms. And the cam is a 264/270 duration so it also needs high rpms. So we will see much more power if I get rid of that stock PCM and be able to rev to 8000 or so. The rear is a mosier 9". The stall was not locked and is a 4600 stall which again on a Dynojet can not flash properly to multiply torque.




Neil...........Thanks man...we are getting there!!

Cant wait till we spray the big shot!! We should see maybe 900 rwhp??

Last edited by Tony Shepherd; 10-31-2005 at 07:57 AM.
Old 10-31-2005, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Tony Shepherd
Ok.....................................I have dyno results!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Let me just say first that this motor needs to see 8000+ rpms to make its power band!! Ed Wright is correct..............the stock PCM shuts the injectors down at 7250 rpms. THIS SUCKKS! The power curve was on a steep uphill climb and then just starts banging out like a rev limiter!!
I could see 75+ more horsepower if I could rev past 7250.

Anywaz............it put down 490 rwhp up to 7250 rpms. I noticed the power band really starts to pull about 6000 rpms and never starts to taper off.........even at the 7250 mark it is an upward curve. Its definetly time for a F.A.S.T. system. I really think we will see 550-600 rwhp with this motor up to 8000 rpms....N/A.

I am pulling this stock PCM off asap!!

Btw: I would post the torque numbers but with a 4600 stall on a non-loaded dyno...........it made the numbers low. Converter could not flash properly with no load. (I need to put a stock converter back in to tune)!!

Also tried to spray a few passes but have some stumbling issues.

I will keep everyone posted when I get the FAST management system and get the nitrous bugs worked out.

Tony, that is way more cam than I use, and mine is still on a pretty steep upward climb when the PCM gives up. Even with the LT4 heads and intake.
I have a 4400 rpm non-lockup converter and a 4.30 Moser 12 bolt. I have about given up on the stock PCM's rpm limit. An engineer friend of mine feels like it isn't software related. He said something about timers? I'll go with F.A.S.T. next year also. Best I've seen from mine is 508 hp and looks like it flattens some around 485 tq before it falls off. It flashes to over 550 ft lbs, but it is obviously converter flash, and not the engine. I have a Dynojet. Not the best thing for tuning a high stall automatic car.

Since it cooled off I have just been tearing crap up. Got to build some travel limiters before I try to run it again. I had, so far, been able to control the wheelstands fairly well with the shocks. With the fronts now up to 14 clicks
it's still almost undrivable. Damn car's lost it's mind. Think they are calling me "Old man one pass" around here now. Make pass and take it home to fix it.

Good luck with your new set up, Ed
Old 10-31-2005, 12:20 PM
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Damn that sux........I guess I will be needing a FAST set-up now, or soon.
those things are like 2 grand eh?
Old 10-31-2005, 12:22 PM
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Never mind, my qeustion. I just re read the post. Nice setup.
Old 10-31-2005, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by T/A KID
Ed I have a question, how much of a difference would it be tunning a LTX intake versuses a Single plain with a 90mmTB setup on the LT1.

Also, did you have runner length added to your intake Ed, I remember you going into detail about it in this same thread, but just trying to get some comparisons with it and a Single plain (I know they have to be similiar)
Thanks
Sorry I missed this one. I have not tuned one with a single plane. I can't tell you the difference. I'll probably know more about that this winter if I get time to change mine over. My LT4 runners are stock length. The reason I cut the top off is to get to the runner entry from the plenum side. That (as far as I can tell) is the single most important area of a runner, as far as flow gains are concerned. A cylinder head expert will now probably come on here and tell me I'm wrong.<G> Nothing new. It is hard to shape a nice runner entry radius from the bottom end of the runner, for me anyway. I can't grind around corners real well from that far away.

I have a stock throttle that a guy a friend of mine found on some message board bored to 52mm. He sells them on an exchange basis. It has worked very well. I tested a 58mm on mine, but saw no gain at all. Just idle problems due to the screwed up IAC passages and loss of isolated TB entry / cylinder-to-cylinder idle air passage. Don't know of a decent aftermarket LT1/LT4 TB. All I have seen are inferior to the factory part due to the reasons I just mentioned. Don't know why that area on the back side is always milled out, killing the single best method of making a big-cammed engine idle well. If I was forced to use one, I would have to address that deal. Fill it with Bondo, or somethin'.<G>

Good luck, Ed



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