Budget valvetrain for CC306?
10-22-2005, 05:06 AM
#1
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Budget valvetrain for CC306? I've decided that I want to do a CC306 over the winter on my 96 Z28, and have been trying to put together a list of the required valvetrain components. Unfortunately, after doing the math, this stuff starts getting expensive! I also don't have too much knowledge about every single part that's required. I'll post a list of what I've come up with so far, but I need advice on what I should add/change/remove in order to get a valvetrain that works for the least amount of cash. This will be a cam-only car, by the way. (Please keep the "CC306 is too big for stock heads" drama to a minimum, thanks.)
CC306 (obviously)
Comp 918 springs
Titanium retainers
Comp Pro Magnum 1.6 roller rockers (self-aligning, 3.8")
Comp hardened pushrods (stock length)
Now, I think I'm missing some little stuff, so I'll need some advice on that. Am I headed in the right direction, or am I way off? Basically I'm just looking for the most cost-effective valvetrain that will WORK. I also need to make sure I have a complete list of everything I need, so I can order the parts ASAP.
CC306 (obviously)
Comp 918 springs
Titanium retainers
Comp Pro Magnum 1.6 roller rockers (self-aligning, 3.8")
Comp hardened pushrods (stock length)
Now, I think I'm missing some little stuff, so I'll need some advice on that. Am I headed in the right direction, or am I way off? Basically I'm just looking for the most cost-effective valvetrain that will WORK. I also need to make sure I have a complete list of everything I need, so I can order the parts ASAP.
10-22-2005, 08:47 AM
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I would skip the titanuim retainers with the already smaller and therfore lighter retainers of beehives titanuim offers far less weigh5t savings than it does with a standard spring and therefore becomes less cost effective. I would recommend you consider 7/16 studs with guideplates(GMPP ones NOT comp or the like) and non-SA rockers for those 7/16 studs.
The only real reason I recommend the 7/16 studs is because I believe to run the guideplates you need to replace the stock studs and it costs basically nothing to go to the larger one when already replacing them anyway. The cost of the studs and plates will be somewhat offset but the fact non-SA rockers are cheaper. Once you have non-sa rockers it allows you to possibly use +.050 locks to get the installed height of the beehives closer to spec., the taller locks can interfere with SA rocker at very high lifts like you are looking to run.
On the pushrods hardened is not necessary till you have guideplates and while you do want a strong one every mechanical system has a weakest link not weak just weakest and most prefer that to be the pushrod in a valvetrain, better for it to bend that for something else to break should something go wrong.
The only real reason I recommend the 7/16 studs is because I believe to run the guideplates you need to replace the stock studs and it costs basically nothing to go to the larger one when already replacing them anyway. The cost of the studs and plates will be somewhat offset but the fact non-SA rockers are cheaper. Once you have non-sa rockers it allows you to possibly use +.050 locks to get the installed height of the beehives closer to spec., the taller locks can interfere with SA rocker at very high lifts like you are looking to run.
On the pushrods hardened is not necessary till you have guideplates and while you do want a strong one every mechanical system has a weakest link not weak just weakest and most prefer that to be the pushrod in a valvetrain, better for it to bend that for something else to break should something go wrong.
10-22-2005, 12:08 PM
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if it was me i'd get some lifters too.
doing it on a budget usually means skimping somewhere, which a lot of times leads to spending a bunch extra later. go ahead and do it right the first time. yes i know we are all on a budget, but if you can't afford to mod your car correctly, can you afford to fix it? maybe get most of the stuff now and the rest when u can and do the install when everything will be right.
doing it on a budget usually means skimping somewhere, which a lot of times leads to spending a bunch extra later. go ahead and do it right the first time. yes i know we are all on a budget, but if you can't afford to mod your car correctly, can you afford to fix it? maybe get most of the stuff now and the rest when u can and do the install when everything will be right.
10-22-2005, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by RoAdRaGe912
if it was me i'd get some lifters too.
doing it on a budget usually means skimping somewhere, which a lot of times leads to spending a bunch extra later. go ahead and do it right the first time. yes i know we are all on a budget, but if you can't afford to mod your car correctly, can you afford to fix it? maybe get most of the stuff now and the rest when u can and do the install when everything will be right.
doing it on a budget usually means skimping somewhere, which a lot of times leads to spending a bunch extra later. go ahead and do it right the first time. yes i know we are all on a budget, but if you can't afford to mod your car correctly, can you afford to fix it? maybe get most of the stuff now and the rest when u can and do the install when everything will be right.
Reusing stock lifters is perfectly acceptable on roller cams they can eventually wear out though so you could consider lifters just don't think going and buying a basic set of Cranes or Comps is going to anything but a new stock lifter.
10-23-2005, 03:12 AM
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Ok, I've revised my list of parts. Does this look right? Anything that I need to change? Oh, and I have no clue whether to get 10* or 7* locks and retainers, so I just put 10* as a guess. Someone let me know if that's correct. Here's my list of parts, complete with part number, price, and vendor information. All these prices are the lowest I could find. Any input would be very helpful, considering I really don't know jack about valvetrain components.
Code:
Comp CC306 cam $245.95 CCA-07-306-8 Summit Racing Comp 26918 beehive springs $159.99 63-26918-16 Thunder Racing Comp spring locators $32.00 63-4705-16 Thunder Racing Comp 11/32 10* lock set $19.76 CC-613-16 Combination Motorsports Comp 10* steel retainers $49.95 63-795-16 Thunder Racing Comp 1.6 non-SA rockers 7/16" $270.26 CC-1305-16 Combination Motorsports Comp 7/16" rocker arm studs $29.95 63-4501-16 Thunder Racing GM guideplates (8 needed) $26.32 20-14011051 Thunder Racing Comp hardened pushrods $36.95 63-7808-16 Thunder Racing LT4 extreme duty timing set $279.97 GM-12370835 Combination Motorsports Oversize crank sprocket $40.00 68-S645 Thunder Racing
10-26-2005, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Do you realize most of the "aftermarket" lifters are exactly the same as stock lifters? To get something genuinely different you have to step up beyond their base level offerings to something lik the Comp "R"s which either due to design or operator error have apretty poor track record, beyond that you are talking real high dollar.
Reusing stock lifters is perfectly acceptable on roller cams they can eventually wear out though so you could consider lifters just don't think going and buying a basic set of Cranes or Comps is going to anything but a new stock lifter.
Reusing stock lifters is perfectly acceptable on roller cams they can eventually wear out though so you could consider lifters just don't think going and buying a basic set of Cranes or Comps is going to anything but a new stock lifter.
so u just read my post and automatically assume i'm an idiot or what?? did i say "OEM" replacemnts?? no, and there are quite a few other lifters available besides the OEM replacements and comp Rs that are so widely used. no you are not talking high dollar as pretty much any set of hydraulic lifters for the LT1 is going to be almost the exact same price.
i'm not some old school junkie who runs flat tappet and doesn't know about rollers. all i've ever worked with are roller setups and i've done a few. i reused my stock 117k mile lifters when i did the hotcam kit (basically free). i also know that with the pressure that the stock lifters are rated at and the pressure that you're going to see from a spring that is needed to run the cc306 that i for sure wouldn't run the old stock lifters and i still wouldn't run brand new replacement OEM lifters. clear enough??
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11-05-2005, 01:34 PM
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good god no.
a power programmer is total ****. you'll need a custom tune, but i wouldn't reccomend a full out dyno tune. there are mail order places like pcmforless.com and madz28.com where you can get a very nice tune for much cheaper.
a power programmer is total ****. you'll need a custom tune, but i wouldn't reccomend a full out dyno tune. there are mail order places like pcmforless.com and madz28.com where you can get a very nice tune for much cheaper.
