crAzy95Z28

iTrader: (3)

ok im looking into buying a stock 350 block (used) for roughly 100-150 bucks!

wondering how much would a .030 bore (to a 355) cost.

also wanting forgred pistons and rods.

will use a stock LT1 crank.

basically a full rotating assembly.

I have 3k to spend and looking for the cheapest rebuild possible..

also going to be spraying 150-175 shot (wet)

Randy

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Most shops will overbore for not much at all. Seems like I was quoted once $120 or something. With the stock crank, be sure to have it checked out, mic-ed out and all that good stuff. Get quality bearings made for high rpm stuff. Pick a good set of rods and pistons (Eagle and Diamond respectively make inexpensive stuff). Make sure your rods have good ARP rod bolts and you spraying should be no prob. Stick with 4340 steel and the forged pistons and you should be fine. Don't be afraid of compression though. 91-93 octane will support a good amount on these motors.

crAzy95Z28

iTrader: (3)

im wanting high comp. i am going to be spraying 150-175 shot...

can you give me any links were i can buy these peices from.

As im thinking it may be cheaper to buy the parts seperate and take them to a shop to be assembled!

Randy

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

I tried that route (buying pieces) and finally decided buying out right preassembled short blocks was going to be a little cheaper. But to each his own. Pick up a Summit catalog or even Jeg's. It's hard to beat their prices because of volume. I don't think either carries Diamond pistons but many many sponsors on the right here have or can get all these components. Diamond was just an example of value components; SRP pistons are great too and you can get those through Summit.

BigKap94z

iTrader: (47)

To bore your block it will probably be around $200-300 for Bore/hone/hot-tank/cam bearings/freeze plugs. When i did mine I had it zero decked, the 2 bolt mains studded and line honed. I wanted a budget build, as well as something that wouldn't shutter at a 7,000RPM shift point. This more than doubled the cost of the boring but it was worth it. For a build like yours I would think some Scat 4340 I beams would be more than enough, they are also reasonably priced. Pistons are your choice. SRP/Mahle/diamond/Probe all offer a good forged piston at a fair price. My last engine had SRP pistons. but this time I went with the Mahles, and they are sweet. I got mine for around $500, and they come with rings, as well as being coated. Just don't get caught up and end up overbuilding the bottom end, many people spray that much on the stock bottom end without issues. A fresh bottom end setup for spray should have no problems with the parts you listed. I am sure many poeple will try to convince you otherwise though.

crAzy95Z28

iTrader: (3)

is 2700$ for a assembled 355 a good deal with forged pistons, rods and a stock crank?

bottom end is what i mean.

you think i can get the parts cheaper and just have them assemble and balance the block?>

Rnady

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

In the case of the 355, perhaps getting yours built up would be cheaper. My experience with my 396 was buy the shortblock, but that was with more machine work and a new crank and everything. Going on what BigKap94z said, you'd have $300 in block work, $580 for pistons, $430 for rods, $60 for all bearings, so that equates to $1370. That's just looking at my Summit catalog for Mahle pistons, Eagle H beams, and Clevite bearings. Add a little for assembly and you still come out ahead of $2700+freight. You can take that extra money and upgrade your parts or add extra stuff like splayed 4 bolts but I don't think it would be necessary.

stealthws6

Im wanting to do the same thing also. Almost exactly. Right now im a stock bottom end with HC running 12.0's at 115 mph. Now i know that i wouldnt gain much by just the overbore but if you were to spray the same 355 combo with my same top end with a 150-200 shot would that be cpable of high 10's low 11's? Just curious because this is my goal E.T. wise but maybe im not being realistic. Not sure.

crAzy95Z28

iTrader: (3)

freight on what?

id go and pick up a block down the street and haul it around in a truck...

it shouldnt be that much to ship pistons and H beams to splay it into a 4 bolt splayed main right?

i can prob get it assembled and blue printed for around 300-400$ then a custom grinde cam 400$

thats 2170 so far... leaves me with around 900$

need to get my heads redone, touched up. and i will also need some new lifters as some of them are bad.
lifters are around 100-200$


gaskets and fluids prob 200-300$

i will be instlling the engine myself!

Randy

BigKap94z

iTrader: (47)

Make sure you budget for MORE than you are actually planning on spending. I wouldn't go all crazy on the bottom end. Put the money where the power is made, in the topend. Don't forget to budget money for polishing/turning the stock crank as well. Also there is no sense in making the mains splayed 4 bolts. Why would you run splayed caps with the stock crank? If I was in your position, which I kinda was B4, heres what i would do.
*block bored/line honed/2 bolt mains studded/ decked:$550-$700
*stock crank polished/turned:$35-100
*Scat or Eagle I beams:$200-280
*Mahle/SRP pistons:$500-600
*Bearings/rings/gaskets:$?
*Canton oil pan w/ pickup:$300
*balance and assembly:$300-$500
*Custom Grind cam: $350
*Double roller timing chain:$75
*Get your LT1 heads ported:$700-2000
*and other various parts:$?

Splaying/boring/forgeing will do nothing for power. There are alot of people running 150 shots with much less. H/C is where the power is, so spend more money there.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

I just figured you were buying this online or something and it would have to be freighted.

crAzy95Z28

iTrader: (3)

ehh, im going to go with ARD and get the 355 fully forged assembled shortblock
with a custom XE cam, to make a bit bit bigger!

stock heads and intake for now still be faster than my 12.5 1/4mile with my old setup on motor....