What is the fastest Bolt-on LT1 full weight daily driven street car?
11-25-2005, 07:12 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by Clean94Z
I don't understand why you are making a big deal of this? I care who has the fastest bolt-on full weight lt1 because I am not builting a race car or a stripper street car. I have not bought parts yet to make a full bolton and am still wondering which route to go. I don't care about what intake Joe O runs on his lt1. It was a simply who has the fastest full weight daily driven bolt on LT1 question. I did not start bashing the race cars or the routes others took to go fast. Not everyone only cares about going fast all the time.
You are coming off like a *** big dog
6.9 109. How about I set you up with my big dog friends. How about a 10.5 tire mustang that cuts 1.19 60ft and runs 5.17 at 139 or my other friend that has a 710inch WITH 3 FOGGERS tube chassised 71 split bumper camaro that runs 4.46 at 159. Don't talk down to me like you are the only one to have very owned a fast car. My last car {street stripper} ways a 2900 pound SN-95 with a 680hp kieth craft 418,225 afr headed, carbed, solid roller with a 225 shot of squeeze.I sold it because street raceing die off due to the new laws and I had no need for something that would sit in the garage all the time. It was to fast for street playing and I couldn't drive it everyday so it just sat all the time. No one wanted to race it and I don't live at the track so I sold it to buy a fun daily driven street car. I am impressed with all cars but my own will be a full weight 1994 Z28 so while I am impressed with the fastest bolt on lt1's. What they have done to get there is not the way I want to go{4.33,gut the car,etc.}. I WANT TO KNOW WHAT TO EXCEPT FROM A FULL WEIGHT LT1 TO COMPARE WHAT PEOPLE HAVE DONE AND WHAT WORKS TO BUY THE RIGHT PARTS.
I WILL SAY THIS ONE MORE TIME! I AM NOT IN ANY WAY TAKING ANYTHING AWAY FROM JOE O.{would like to have his heads/cam package} OR ANY OF THE FASTEST BOLT-ON LT1 GUYS. THIS THREAD IS NOT TO PROVE A POINT JUST ANSWER A QUESTION.
Sorry for the caps but I get tired people getting there feelings hurt becuase they choice to strip there car to go fast. Been there done, that got the t-shirt. You will not here me dog on that, but don't dog on me for going a different route because I drive mine everyday and want to keep everything.
You are coming off like a *** big dog
6.9 109. How about I set you up with my big dog friends. How about a 10.5 tire mustang that cuts 1.19 60ft and runs 5.17 at 139 or my other friend that has a 710inch WITH 3 FOGGERS tube chassised 71 split bumper camaro that runs 4.46 at 159. Don't talk down to me like you are the only one to have very owned a fast car. My last car {street stripper} ways a 2900 pound SN-95 with a 680hp kieth craft 418,225 afr headed, carbed, solid roller with a 225 shot of squeeze.I sold it because street raceing die off due to the new laws and I had no need for something that would sit in the garage all the time. It was to fast for street playing and I couldn't drive it everyday so it just sat all the time. No one wanted to race it and I don't live at the track so I sold it to buy a fun daily driven street car. I am impressed with all cars but my own will be a full weight 1994 Z28 so while I am impressed with the fastest bolt on lt1's. What they have done to get there is not the way I want to go{4.33,gut the car,etc.}. I WANT TO KNOW WHAT TO EXCEPT FROM A FULL WEIGHT LT1 TO COMPARE WHAT PEOPLE HAVE DONE AND WHAT WORKS TO BUY THE RIGHT PARTS.I WILL SAY THIS ONE MORE TIME! I AM NOT IN ANY WAY TAKING ANYTHING AWAY FROM JOE O.{would like to have his heads/cam package} OR ANY OF THE FASTEST BOLT-ON LT1 GUYS. THIS THREAD IS NOT TO PROVE A POINT JUST ANSWER A QUESTION.
Sorry for the caps but I get tired people getting there feelings hurt becuase they choice to strip there car to go fast. Been there done, that got the t-shirt. You will not here me dog on that, but don't dog on me for going a different route because I drive mine everyday and want to keep everything.
never said i was the big dog, i'm no where near competitive in my class. Oh yeah and the 6.9 comment yeah it sucks dosen it, stock 10bolt+6speed, babying it out of the hole and still ran 10.63
just thought i would clear that up for ya its no tube chassis race car, and last year i havent been able to cut a 60ft to get into 9s because of th rear/trans.
Last edited by LittleRedZ; 11-25-2005 at 07:19 AM.
11-25-2005, 10:20 AM
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I don't understand what the deal is? I have a '94 Z28(in sig). I chose to remove the AC and the power steering , which both are creature comforts. If someone chooses to remove those items, I don't see where that's a downfall. I drive my car all the time, maybe not everyday, but I could. If it will pass inspection, it's a STREET CAR. No trying to be dick either, but I'm competing in the pure street LT1 class in MD in '06 and the winner last year won with a 12.52@11X. Driven to the track with tags and valid inspection. I don't see where weight matters if it is a street legal car. If you want to know how fast a full wieght car is, buy some bolt-ons and see for yourself, because 90% of bolt-on LT1s have some weight removed, even if it is just a spare or jack. Good luck in your search for the fastest full weight LT1.
Last edited by LT14LIFE JT; 11-25-2005 at 11:05 AM.
11-25-2005, 10:44 AM
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My best friend/ racing buddies car has gone 11.53 at 115 in his 30th anniversary vert z28. No weight was removed from the car, other than the spare, because he had to put the NO2 bottles there. That ET was on the 150 shot, 3:73s, 3K stall, d/rs, 52mm tb, flp lt's, 1.6rr's, flp trans, some suspension stuff etc. He went 13.0 N/A I believe with the same pig of a car. We swapped in a cc306 and he said is went 12.50's. Not bad for a car pushing 4000 lbs.
11-25-2005, 11:36 AM
#25
Shon's race weight is 3050, stock is around 3700, so add .6 to his 11.90 and the best you could hope for would be around a 12.50+
My car 3275, add .40 to my 12.29 and = 12.59+
I could only see asking a question like this ,IF you wanted to see if your car was on pace before you started pulling weight off. Mid 12's would be my best guess.
My car 3275, add .40 to my 12.29 and = 12.59+
I could only see asking a question like this ,IF you wanted to see if your car was on pace before you started pulling weight off. Mid 12's would be my best guess.
11-25-2005, 11:57 AM
#26
I think the validity of this question really depends on the reason for asking.
If someone asks this because they want to beat the record and then proclaim, "I have the fastest daily driven full weight LT1" then I think that's kind of asinine.
If on the other hand someone is just asking because they want to get an idea of what they can run while keeping their DD comforts, then I really don't see anything wrong with that.
If someone asks this because they want to beat the record and then proclaim, "I have the fastest daily driven full weight LT1" then I think that's kind of asinine.
If on the other hand someone is just asking because they want to get an idea of what they can run while keeping their DD comforts, then I really don't see anything wrong with that.
11-25-2005, 12:03 PM
#27
I think stock is a little less weight than 3700, but not much. I believe the T/A's with auto's / convertible are the heaviest, tipping the scales at just over 3600. Roadtrip120 is right, probably 12.50/12.40's are the best your gonna see for a car at 3600 lbs. I'm pretty sure mine weighs somewhere in the neighborhood of 3515, maybe a touch less. I'm hoping to go 12.30's @ 110 plus, but it may just be a little too much to ask at my weight. I will see soon.....
I agree, all the bolt-on records are ridiculous !
It's still kinda fun to see what a full weight stock car with bolt-ons will run 
LOL, I'm pretty sure I have the fastest ET for my silver WS6, # 1073 bolt-on record.
METALBEAST, I'm hoping to get one last run at the track this calendar year, but it may already be too late
I agree, all the bolt-on records are ridiculous !
It's still kinda fun to see what a full weight stock car with bolt-ons will run LOL, I'm pretty sure I have the fastest ET for my silver WS6, # 1073 bolt-on record.
METALBEAST, I'm hoping to get one last run at the track this calendar year, but it may already be too late
11-25-2005, 07:32 PM
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I think some people miss understood the meaning of the question. It is not from me to set a new record for the fastest bolt-on full weight LT1. That stupid, everyone builds there car for different things. I asked the question so see what to except from full bolt-ons in my car keeping it full weight with out spending money in the wrong places. I am not trying to impress anyone or top anyone on this board. My car is a mostly raced on the street going to and from work. And sees light track duty.
Look red, I only dogged on your because you where talking down to me. I have been builting cars since 1995. Personality owned 3 camaros and 4 mustangs. I have builted a pump gas [10.5.1 comp}347 that you would shift before the stock rev limiter{6250} that on 26's,5-speed{tz5} and the hose ran 9.65[on race gas} at 143mph.I have work on and tuned cars that run 1/8 mile in the mid 5's with stock suspesnsion and a 10.5 tire. And builted street cars that 700/800HP supras from a roll struggled with. But that is the past and now it just owning a fun fully loaded daily driver thats not making so much power I have to worry about breaking parts all the time. BEEN THERE, DONE THAT ,GOT THE T-SHIRT. Just something to play on street with. Know matter what you builld there is always something faster.
PEACE
Originally Posted by LittleRedZ
lol ok dog never said i was the big dog, i'm no where near competitive in my class.
Oh yeah and the 6.9 comment yeah it sucks dosen it, stock 10bolt+6speed, babying it out of the hole and still ran 10.63
just thought i would clear that up for ya its no tube chassis race car, and last year i havent been able to cut a 60ft to get into 9s because of th rear/trans.
never said i was the big dog, i'm no where near competitive in my class. Oh yeah and the 6.9 comment yeah it sucks dosen it, stock 10bolt+6speed, babying it out of the hole and still ran 10.63
just thought i would clear that up for ya its no tube chassis race car, and last year i havent been able to cut a 60ft to get into 9s because of th rear/trans.
PEACE
11-25-2005, 07:36 PM
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Thanks for the props.
I still think the car would go 11.9s with the carpet and interior panels in the car.
Granted I do not have HVAC stuff but not until recently was that standard on GM cars.
But really, 12.5 to 12.4 is about all I can see a bolt on car with ALL the factory stuff in it.
But just FYI-my car is factory weight....before they put all the heavy **** in it....I have not cut any metal out of the car yet....
I still think the car would go 11.9s with the carpet and interior panels in the car.
Granted I do not have HVAC stuff but not until recently was that standard on GM cars.
But really, 12.5 to 12.4 is about all I can see a bolt on car with ALL the factory stuff in it.
But just FYI-my car is factory weight....before they put all the heavy **** in it....I have not cut any metal out of the car yet....
11-25-2005, 07:38 PM
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Back to the subject. 12.3 to 12.5 at 3600 with full bolt-ons and trapping 108 to 110 mph. So the full bolt-on would be:
Longtubes
1:6:1 rockers
knock module
58mm tb
electric water pump
and 3.73 or 4.10's
am I missing anything?
Longtubes
1:6:1 rockers
knock module
58mm tb
electric water pump
and 3.73 or 4.10's
am I missing anything?
11-25-2005, 07:45 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by Clean94Z
Back to the subject. 12.3 to 12.5 at 3600 with full bolt-ons and trapping 108 to 110 mph. So the full bolt-on would be:
Longtubes
1:6:1 rockers
knock module
58mm tb
electric water pump
and 3.73 or 4.10's
am I missing anything?
Longtubes
1:6:1 rockers
knock module
58mm tb
electric water pump
and 3.73 or 4.10's
am I missing anything?
11-25-2005, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Clean94Z
Back to the subject. 12.3 to 12.5 at 3600 with full bolt-ons and trapping 108 to 110 mph. So the full bolt-on would be:
Longtubes
1:6:1 rockers
knock module
58mm tb
electric water pump
and 3.73 or 4.10's
am I missing anything?
Longtubes
1:6:1 rockers
knock module
58mm tb
electric water pump
and 3.73 or 4.10's
am I missing anything?
You could get some Scorpion 1.7RRs for a little more gain
Computer tune(a must!)
If auto... then stall, shift kit, and trans cooler
Remove spare tire/jack, and rear seats because they aren't detrimental to daily drivability
Lightweight wheels and sticky tires
Remove the flappy thing under your hood, it's not necessary
Aftermarket Kmember to reduce lots of weight from the front(isn't it like 40lb savings?)
Remount your battery to the rear
SUSPENSION!
11-25-2005, 10:36 PM
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Remove the flappy thing under your hood, it's not necessary
? what flappy thing?
I was going to go with emissions legal LE2 H/C package alittle later. Thats what the 58mm tb was for.
But I could run a 52mm and upgrade later.
? what flappy thing?
I was going to go with emissions legal LE2 H/C package alittle later. Thats what the 58mm tb was for.
But I could run a 52mm and upgrade later.
11-26-2005, 09:37 AM
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The flappy thing is the fabric stuff on stock hoods.
K-member, A-arms are weight reduction items that work.
Relocating the battery to the rear is not saving weight but adding it, I would rather use a LW battery up front. You save a whole lot more weight and if you need that weight over the rear, use gasoline or the spare tire. but do not think that would be needed.
Another key is to get all the power you are making to the rear tires and getting them to stick, that is where suspension comes into play. All the power in the world is useless unless you can use it.
K-member, A-arms are weight reduction items that work.
Relocating the battery to the rear is not saving weight but adding it, I would rather use a LW battery up front. You save a whole lot more weight and if you need that weight over the rear, use gasoline or the spare tire. but do not think that would be needed.
Another key is to get all the power you are making to the rear tires and getting them to stick, that is where suspension comes into play. All the power in the world is useless unless you can use it.
11-26-2005, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Shon Herron
The flappy thing is the fabric stuff on stock hoods.
K-member, A-arms are weight reduction items that work.
Relocating the battery to the rear is not saving weight but adding it, I would rather use a LW battery up front. You save a whole lot more weight and if you need that weight over the rear, use gasoline or the spare tire. but do not think that would be needed.
Another key is to get all the power you are making to the rear tires and getting them to stick, that is where suspension comes into play. All the power in the world is useless unless you can use it.
K-member, A-arms are weight reduction items that work.
Relocating the battery to the rear is not saving weight but adding it, I would rather use a LW battery up front. You save a whole lot more weight and if you need that weight over the rear, use gasoline or the spare tire. but do not think that would be needed.
Another key is to get all the power you are making to the rear tires and getting them to stick, that is where suspension comes into play. All the power in the world is useless unless you can use it.
11-27-2005, 12:15 AM
#37
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Ok I have a question are you guys saying a 355ci would not qualify for this thread. Any way just to shed some light on your questions. I am just curious as well as far as a daily driven LT car.
355ci w/ Forged Bottom End
(Eagle Crank & H Beam Rods J&E Pistons w/ Total Seal Rings That Have Been File Fit)
LE2 HCI Combo (Heads and Intake By Lloyd Elliott Heads and Bret Cam)
LS1 Lid Conversion w/ Fast Toys Induction
58mm BBK Throttle Body
30lbs Injectors
Hooker Long Tubes, OR-Y Pipe, SLP Loudmouth
OBD 1 Conversion w/ AKM Cable and Edit Software
Meizer Electric H2O Pump
SPEC Stage III Plus
Pro 50 Shifter
Stock T-56
Moser 12 Bolt (No ABS, No TCS, Limited Slip, 4.30’s)
Hotchkis Adj. Pan Hard Bar
Hotchkis Adj. Lower Control Arms
Hotchkis Springs Front, 6 Cyl. Springs Rear
BMR Full Length Subframes
AGX Adj, Struts Front, Bilstein SLP Shocks Rear
On a full weight car minus the back seats (All A/C, Power Everything, T-Top Car)
On a MT ET Street and the 3.73 w/ the 10 bolt and the old suspension set up the car went 11.71 @ 119
Dyno 3 weeks ago through the 12 bolt the car made 402.76 RWHP & 371.7 LBS
355ci w/ Forged Bottom End
(Eagle Crank & H Beam Rods J&E Pistons w/ Total Seal Rings That Have Been File Fit)
LE2 HCI Combo (Heads and Intake By Lloyd Elliott Heads and Bret Cam)
LS1 Lid Conversion w/ Fast Toys Induction
58mm BBK Throttle Body
30lbs Injectors
Hooker Long Tubes, OR-Y Pipe, SLP Loudmouth
OBD 1 Conversion w/ AKM Cable and Edit Software
Meizer Electric H2O Pump
SPEC Stage III Plus
Pro 50 Shifter
Stock T-56
Moser 12 Bolt (No ABS, No TCS, Limited Slip, 4.30’s)
Hotchkis Adj. Pan Hard Bar
Hotchkis Adj. Lower Control Arms
Hotchkis Springs Front, 6 Cyl. Springs Rear
BMR Full Length Subframes
AGX Adj, Struts Front, Bilstein SLP Shocks Rear
On a full weight car minus the back seats (All A/C, Power Everything, T-Top Car)
On a MT ET Street and the 3.73 w/ the 10 bolt and the old suspension set up the car went 11.71 @ 119
Dyno 3 weeks ago through the 12 bolt the car made 402.76 RWHP & 371.7 LBS
11-27-2005, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Shucky
Ok I have a question are you guys saying a 355ci would not qualify for this thread. Any way just to shed some light on your questions. I am just curious as well as far as a daily driven LT car.
355ci w/ Forged Bottom End
(Eagle Crank & H Beam Rods J&E Pistons w/ Total Seal Rings That Have Been File Fit)
LE2 HCI Combo (Heads and Intake By Lloyd Elliott Heads and Bret Cam)
LS1 Lid Conversion w/ Fast Toys Induction
58mm BBK Throttle Body
30lbs Injectors
Hooker Long Tubes, OR-Y Pipe, SLP Loudmouth
OBD 1 Conversion w/ AKM Cable and Edit Software
Meizer Electric H2O Pump
SPEC Stage III Plus
Pro 50 Shifter
Stock T-56
Moser 12 Bolt (No ABS, No TCS, Limited Slip, 4.30’s)
Hotchkis Adj. Pan Hard Bar
Hotchkis Adj. Lower Control Arms
Hotchkis Springs Front, 6 Cyl. Springs Rear
BMR Full Length Subframes
AGX Adj, Struts Front, Bilstein SLP Shocks Rear
On a full weight car minus the back seats (All A/C, Power Everything, T-Top Car)
On a MT ET Street and the 3.73 w/ the 10 bolt and the old suspension set up the car went 11.71 @ 119
Dyno 3 weeks ago through the 12 bolt the car made 402.76 RWHP & 371.7 LBS
355ci w/ Forged Bottom End
(Eagle Crank & H Beam Rods J&E Pistons w/ Total Seal Rings That Have Been File Fit)
LE2 HCI Combo (Heads and Intake By Lloyd Elliott Heads and Bret Cam)
LS1 Lid Conversion w/ Fast Toys Induction
58mm BBK Throttle Body
30lbs Injectors
Hooker Long Tubes, OR-Y Pipe, SLP Loudmouth
OBD 1 Conversion w/ AKM Cable and Edit Software
Meizer Electric H2O Pump
SPEC Stage III Plus
Pro 50 Shifter
Stock T-56
Moser 12 Bolt (No ABS, No TCS, Limited Slip, 4.30’s)
Hotchkis Adj. Pan Hard Bar
Hotchkis Adj. Lower Control Arms
Hotchkis Springs Front, 6 Cyl. Springs Rear
BMR Full Length Subframes
AGX Adj, Struts Front, Bilstein SLP Shocks Rear
On a full weight car minus the back seats (All A/C, Power Everything, T-Top Car)
On a MT ET Street and the 3.73 w/ the 10 bolt and the old suspension set up the car went 11.71 @ 119
Dyno 3 weeks ago through the 12 bolt the car made 402.76 RWHP & 371.7 LBS
As said before, probably 12.3 at best, unless you have a factory freak or some real good air.
