LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Im so screwed.... need help asap

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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 02:45 AM
  #21  
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From: garland tx
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if that dont work...lol...try a cigarette lighter on the pulley to expand slightly and it might come off easier...has sorked on many bolts parts for me before...but i vote for welding it back on if you can...
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 10:49 AM
  #22  
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good plan.... just need to find someone with a welder
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 11:02 AM
  #23  
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I don't know if I would want to weld anything that close to my optispark.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 11:39 AM
  #24  
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From: St. Peters, MO
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put a smaller od bolt inside the crank snout that has an allen head on it and let the puller push against that. that's what ive done all the times i've had to pull the hub off. i saw you got a hub, if for some reason that doesnt work, try slp, they actually have a keyed hub, not a press fit like the stocker and it goes for 80 bucks or something.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 11:58 AM
  #25  
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I don't know why everyone is making this so difficult, and sorry to offend everyone but here is the situation (you can tell form the pics):

You didn't have a bolt inside the hub to use as a push point when you tried removing it and thus you snapped an ear off because you were putting pressure directly against the inside of the hub...

So, here is the fix:

1) put a grade 8 bolt in the crank snout in place of the stock bolt, making sure it is long enough to bottom out in the crank and at the same time sit about an inch+ out from the top of the hub itself... DO NOT TRY TO USE THE STOCK HUB BOLT!!! It is far to short and you will jsut bottom out and cause the same situation...

2) to pull the hub off just put the damper back on using the 2 of the remaining ears and making sure the bolts are torqued in place...

3) use a 3 jaw puller on the INSIDE of the damper pushing off the bolt you threaded into the crank as the point you push against with the puller...

Now you HAVE to use the inside of the damper, not the outside, as if you use the outside you will run the risk of ruining the damper itself...

Using the remaining 2 ears with the damper will give you plenty of stability to pull the hub off, and the damper itself should give plenty of places to grab solidly with the puller...

Just make sure when pulling it off you don't bottom out the hub against the bolt inside the crank or you are just creating the same situation you just had... Just buy a couple different lengths of bolts and stop and swap them out if one isn't long enough...

I have never personally broken a hub like this, but I have had it where the damper would not come off the hub and instead of hammering it like a bunch of morons would, I pulled both as an assembly and then pressed the hub off...

I can't believe people would ever hammer on hubs or even dampers, to install or remove, talk about taking the brute-force and unnecessary route...
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 01:13 PM
  #26  
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I GOT IT! Even though i did break it it ended up only costing me $42.00 instead of 257.08 PLUS having someone install and all the ****. so thank you all your your advice.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 01:25 PM
  #27  
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From: dallas
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well welding require removing that new opti you just installed.I used some of that P.B cat cleaner and lube and mine came rite off
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 01:35 PM
  #28  
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From: Gaffney SC
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It was not rusted on im just a no0b and i was pushing aginst myself the whole time... and I was a little too upset last night to reolize it.
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