Ok well I think I want to install my headers myself because I'm not wanting to pay what the exhaust shops want for the install. So just wondering what goes into installing headers what tools will i need and do i need a lift or anything. What are some tips from people that have installed them before. BTW they are pacestter LT's

 

Installed my hooker long tubes in my car in about 8 hours, with regular hand tools and on jack stands in my garage. Took our time, and wasn't that bad. I've installed them on a few LS1's, and this was my first Lt1, and you just gotta remove everything you can on the passenger side to get them in: starter, tranny dust cover, etc, then all they needed was a little persuation

 

My hookers LT's required removing the passenger side engine mount bolt and tilting the engine to the other side. Get large jackstands because you'll need to raise it the heighest you can.

 

Does anyone have a good howto like step by step site for the install because this will be my first header install and I will be doing it myself and I'm not 100% sure how to but I gotta start sometime right

 

i did my pacesetter LTs all by myself in my carport with the jackstands all the way up ..
1.take off alternator,starter, and steering linkage.
2.take out old exhaust(both manifolds come out the bottom)
3.driver side header goes in from the bottom pretty easy
4. passenger side you have to take out the motor mount bolt and jack it up a couple inches..

if i can do it ,you can cause im 17 and i did it with MY own two hands with no help.and proud to say that i did

 

so when you say take out old exhaust are you referring to the shortie headers that are already in there or do i need to take everything off

 

Doing a set right now on a 94. they do not fit quite as well as I would like.

If you have an automatic they should go in easy. This one is a 6 speed

I will have more later today as i finish up the install. I can already tell I will be moving the wiring on the passenger side to keep future problems from happening.

 

Thanks for all the help guys, I'm just afraid because I don't know a whole crap load about cars like everyone on this site and this will be the first mod that I'm installing myself. The most I've done prior to this is change oil. But hey I gotta start soon can't keep paying people to do things that i could do myself

 

Ok here are a few tip's. Because I was installing on a six speed it took a bit to get the passenger side header in. I used a jack to gently move it in to place. On an Automatic this would not be a problem. I also extended the O2s sensor harness about 18 inchs with the provided parts. I then extended the PCM ground and Starter wire(Purple) about 6 inches each. after I did this I released the wires from the clip on the K-member and went up top to the aluminum heater core lines. Here I pulled the harness forward so it was in between the two header tubes and Zip tied it to the heater core lines. Back under the car I put the harness back in the retainer(in a different spot on the harness) and hooked the Started and ground back up. I also pulled the number six Spark plug wire out of the stock loom and re-routed it so it would not lay on the header. I then zip tied the number six and eight wires to the Dip stick tube to keep them off the headers in the future. I zip tied tied the O2 harness to the main starter feed and the tranmission just about the O2 sensor.

The Driver side took much less time. I removed the oil filter and coolant temp sensor(and spark plugs, always do them with headers any way) along with the steering shaft(remember to lock the steering and take out keys!). headers lipped right in and every thing hooked up fine.

the OR Y-pipe fit great.

I did NOT use the crappy gaskets OR clamps they sent. Fel-pro gaskets fit better and I know last longer. ANYONE who has ever used those U bolt clamps can tell you what a PITA it is to work on some thing after they have been used. I used four 3 in Stainless band clamps. they seal better and re easy to remove in the future..like when doing a clutch!

Over all I thought they were well made and fit well. a little close on the Passenger side Engine mount but ok. they have better ground clearance then Hookers.

I would recomend them to customers in the future

 

Wrong, the automatic with the emissions headers on the LT1 are harder to install than the 6 speed. And yes, the wiring is real close so I'll be putting some heat shielding over that to protect it. But back to his original question. It looks like he has an LS1 car which should be a lot easier. But if you've never done anything other than an oil change, headers are probably not the best mod to be your first adventure into working on cars. You need to jack the car up at least 3' in the air to get the headers up and into place. You need a good selection of tools, jackstands, floorjack, hacksaw or sawzall to cut old pipes if necessary to even attempt this. I would recommend finding someone who has done it and have them help you at the least. But like you said, you have to start learning somewhere.

 

I have actually installed just about every brand out there. LT1 and LS1 F/Y/B-bodys and many others.

I have probably installed 60+ sets on F-bodys alone

I can say with a great deal of certenty IF the bottom of the bell housing and Starter area were missing(like on and automatic) this install would have been a great deal easier.

Through experiance I have also found extending and moving the wires to be the best answer from future problems

Then again I have been wrong before.....

I would agree. having someone do it who knows what they are doing and having the tools to do it is the best answer

 

Well, I saw no physical way the passenger side header(emission legal header for 96-97) was getting past the automatic transmission "ear" flange so I had to hacksaw part of it off, unbolt the motor mount and lift the engine and even then I still had to hammer the header up into place. This was with the car jacked at least 3' in the air. I love the headers, but it's not easy at all with the emissions legal headers since the AIR tube and the EGR tube stick out. Now I'm running into a problem getting the EGR hooked up because the automatic dipstick tube is in the way. I couldn't get the bolt loose holding the dipstick tube to the engine so I had to hacksaw that bracket to get the tube out of the way. So now I still need to figure out how to either get that bolt out and put in a new dipstick tube with some sort of spacer or make my own bracket for the tube and bolt it to the back of the head. Now if you go with non emissions headers, it will probably be pretty easy with maybe needing to unbolt the motor mount to slide it out of the way.

 

LOL!!!

Some one put the wrong case in your car ALL 95-97 Transmissions had the ears cut off from the factory The Dip stick tube must have been in the wrong spot from when they did the trans. The tube should not have to move at all. the dip stick should make no differance as the manifolds are the same for both A4 and M6.

Sounds like you had all kind of problems

 

Well, that explains a lot. I can tell my trans has been out of the car(I just bought it in Oct) because the crossmember bolts and torque arm bolts show signs of being removed. I probably have a truck transmission or something. Yeah, the passenger side header was living hell to get in. But regardless, wouldn't the dipstick tube still be in the same location being bolted to the back of the engine? And the EGR tube runs right there to the manifold and the header EGR port is about 1" further back which is why the tube gets in the way.