even a baby one 
300Rwhp?
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300Rwhp? I know how I can make my car go faster and get into the 12's. (high 12's) For instance a stall, or a gear. But how can I achieve making 300Rwhp? I have a A4 94 Z28 and I'm 284Rwhp right now. Is there any mod I can do that will get me there? Currently, I have LT headers, Matching Y-pipe, Moroso CAI, LT4 KM and a tune. Any ideas that could get me there? I also have a 160' thermostat, but that really doesn't do anything for HP...
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
Dynoed my Caprice the other day and put down 290rwhp on a rich mailorder tune through an unlocked 2800 Edge and my cam is a good bit smaller than 98% of the guys here would ever consider, 208/221 compared to say the ever popular HOT cams 218/228. Also consider I have an 8.5" axle and heavier tirewheel combo, and this was on a superflo which like a Mustang reads lower than a dynojet. Locking the converter or some more tweaking of the tune and I would be at your goal.
I'd suggest a cutout and 1.6/1 RRs. Are you running a mail order tune or did you have it dyno tuned. Dyno tuning could net you a few more ponies. I would not worry about dyno numbers too much. You could dyno 284 RWHP one day then dyno 290 RWHP the next. I guarantee you if you dynoed the car with engine cool on a nice cold day in the winter, you would definately gain a few horses.
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Youngstown, Ohio
I would also do some suspension stuff if you don't already have it.
Lower control arms, poly trans mount [go with the Prothane one through www.spohn.com], and good street tires [all weather ones won't cut it, lol].
Lower control arms, poly trans mount [go with the Prothane one through www.spohn.com], and good street tires [all weather ones won't cut it, lol].
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I have a dyno tune. I also already have a poly mount. That was one of the first things I got. The stock tranny mounts are horrible...I would like to look into a cam, but it's pretty expensive after the labor. I can't do that kind of work myself. I would consider underdrive pulleys, but I kind of think it's a waste. I used to have the march and they wobbled a bit. Because of this, I put the stock one back on. How would 1.6 RR's give me power? Also, how hard is that to do and how much?
Springs and rockers would definetely be worthwhile. Springs start at about $100 for the Combination Motorsports ones, rockers start at about $170 for ProForms to over $300 depending where you buy. Might talk to CM they frequently have package deals on springs and the Comp ProMagnum steel rockers for little more than what Summit sells those rockers alone for.
I am sure someone will pop in and say what crap ProForm is but I have had them on my car since about 118K, swapped in a cam and appropriate springs around 132K and now it sits at over 165K and they are still going strong.
Not that hard a project, need basic handtools(including allen keys) a spring compressor and a breaker bar long enough to rotate the engine numbers 8 and 9 here are what you need to do http://shbox.com/1/how_tos.html
I am sure someone will pop in and say what crap ProForm is but I have had them on my car since about 118K, swapped in a cam and appropriate springs around 132K and now it sits at over 165K and they are still going strong.
Not that hard a project, need basic handtools(including allen keys) a spring compressor and a breaker bar long enough to rotate the engine numbers 8 and 9 here are what you need to do http://shbox.com/1/how_tos.html
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well, this might help u out with how the 1.6 roller rockers can help you. most people tend to think that if their heads can't flow any more at higher lift then there's no point, but that's not the case.
in this picture you can pretend the black line is the actual cam lobe. the purple line can be lift/duration from a 1.5 RR, blue is 1.6, and red is 1.7.
by increasing the rocker arm length you increase lift. more lift isn't neccessary on the stock LT1 heads, but by changing the rocker ratio you are also changing how long the valve is open at your optimum flow number. take any arbitrary number, like .400 or .450 for lift on that graph above. it's easy to see how much longer the valve will be open at that lift or above when comparing 1.5 and 1.6 RRs.
hope this helped a little.
in this picture you can pretend the black line is the actual cam lobe. the purple line can be lift/duration from a 1.5 RR, blue is 1.6, and red is 1.7.
by increasing the rocker arm length you increase lift. more lift isn't neccessary on the stock LT1 heads, but by changing the rocker ratio you are also changing how long the valve is open at your optimum flow number. take any arbitrary number, like .400 or .450 for lift on that graph above. it's easy to see how much longer the valve will be open at that lift or above when comparing 1.5 and 1.6 RRs.
hope this helped a little.
