View Poll Results: Which one in suitable for my performance?
Long tube
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar2-l.gif)
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164
80.39%
Mid
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar3-l.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar3.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar3-r.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/clear.gif)
30
14.71%
Short
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar4-l.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar4.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/polls/bar4-r.gif)
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/clear.gif)
10
4.90%
Voters: 204. You may not vote on this poll
Short or mid or long tube headers?
#61
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm finishing up my LT/ORY install now, and I must say the plug access ALONE is worth the extra money over shorty's. I'll have a performance update when I get it all put together and take it to the track.
#63
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by WhiteSSP
I'm finishing up my LT/ORY install now, and I must say the plug access ALONE is worth the extra money over shorty's. I'll have a performance update when I get it all put together and take it to the track.
#64
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Originally Posted by skatinjay27
or maybe some ppl need to pass emissions and cannot move the location of the cat.
#65
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Food for thought-
I'm on an F-body forum, and one of the moderators runs short tubes on his '97 WS6. With 1 3/4 short tube SLP headers and a few other bolt ons, he ran a 13.031 on street tires.
Unfortunately I'm going to be stuck with short tubes. Not that they're terrible, but I don't think they'll yield me the gains that long tubes would. I have to pass NY emissions tests though, and I don't know anyone to pass me through. I'm sure I'll be fine with short tubes and an aftermarket Y pipe.
I'm on an F-body forum, and one of the moderators runs short tubes on his '97 WS6. With 1 3/4 short tube SLP headers and a few other bolt ons, he ran a 13.031 on street tires.
Unfortunately I'm going to be stuck with short tubes. Not that they're terrible, but I don't think they'll yield me the gains that long tubes would. I have to pass NY emissions tests though, and I don't know anyone to pass me through. I'm sure I'll be fine with short tubes and an aftermarket Y pipe.
#66
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by BRETTINATOR
Awesome, dude you should be knocking on 13.0 or 12.9 with a tune on that puppy with the LTs, keep us posted.
#67
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Do you really think a low battery would slow you down? I have seen guys
run with no battery to save weight. I could see how a bad alternator would,
but I am confused about the battery.
run with no battery to save weight. I could see how a bad alternator would,
but I am confused about the battery.
#68
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Originally Posted by blkchevyz
two people already proved that with his mods going from shortys to long tubes are not going to gain anything.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
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![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
Wow.....two whole people lol! Every once in a while you'll get a couple fluke dyno's, but I'd go by what's historically proven and we'll known. Longtubes will make the most power without a doubt, even on an otherwise STOCK car. Shorties won't come close. Mid-lengths can come within a few peak power, but lose out below this. If performance is what you are after, then there isn't even a question as to what size headers to go with! Longtubes for the undisputed win!
![The Judge](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)
#69
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Originally Posted by blkchevyz
two people already proved that with his mods going from shortys to long tubes are not going to gain anything.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
![Nono](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/nono.gif)
![Nono](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/nono.gif)
![Nono](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/nono.gif)
![Nono](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/nono.gif)
![Thinker](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/thinker.gif)
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#70
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Rare96WS6
Do you really think a low battery would slow you down? I have seen guys
run with no battery to save weight. I could see how a bad alternator would,
but I am confused about the battery.
run with no battery to save weight. I could see how a bad alternator would,
but I am confused about the battery.
And even if my longtubes dont give me any more power (which I do beleive they will), the room in the engine bay to change the plugs was WELL worth it. Plus, most longtubes are 1 3/4" diameter primary's, whereas my shorty's were only 1 5/8" diameter primarys. More people have seen gains with Longtubes than with Shorty's.
#71
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I use to race mustangs. And i ran BBK shorties for about a year before I switched to BBK Long tubes. Was there a difference? The short answer is yes. And keep in mind this was a 5.0 mustang so it was true duals. The sound was the biggest difference by far. Performance wise, at high speed 85-120mph the car did breath a lot better. IMO the motor was giving me everything it had. The only thing holding me back was the motor. Its not that the car couldn't reach this speed before the LT's because it had. This time it just seem to doing it just a tad bit easier. Under normal driving conditions below 85mph no difference what so ever. The only reason I switched to long tubes in the first place was because I was getting ready to ad a blower.
My point here is that long tubes may be the way to go if you have plans on making big power down the road or this car is going to see a lot of track time. Power adders definately long tubes. But this mentality that long tubes are the fix for everything on every car for every situation is totally ridiculous. And I got news for you if your running long tubes and don't have true duals, your still pissing in the wind. What is the point of going to long tubes just to choke it down with a Y pipe. Bottom line a bolt on F body car will do just fine with a set of mids. There are guys running f bodys at my track with shorties and midlengths that are hitting well into the 12's. So this whole argument that you have to have long tubes to be fast is total BS.
The real secret is true duals. Take two 94 Z28s completely stock same tranny (auto). Put mids on one with true duals and take the other and put long tubes on it with a y pipe. The mid car will win every time. I'm not telling you what I've heard, im telling you what I've seen.
My point here is that long tubes may be the way to go if you have plans on making big power down the road or this car is going to see a lot of track time. Power adders definately long tubes. But this mentality that long tubes are the fix for everything on every car for every situation is totally ridiculous. And I got news for you if your running long tubes and don't have true duals, your still pissing in the wind. What is the point of going to long tubes just to choke it down with a Y pipe. Bottom line a bolt on F body car will do just fine with a set of mids. There are guys running f bodys at my track with shorties and midlengths that are hitting well into the 12's. So this whole argument that you have to have long tubes to be fast is total BS.
The real secret is true duals. Take two 94 Z28s completely stock same tranny (auto). Put mids on one with true duals and take the other and put long tubes on it with a y pipe. The mid car will win every time. I'm not telling you what I've heard, im telling you what I've seen.
#72
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I ran true duels on my TA for a while and then went back to a Y pipe. My car made less power with Hooker long tubes and true duels than it did with AS&M midlengths, Random Tech Y-Pipe and Borla catback. Apparently, for my current mods, the true duels and long tubes did not give me enough back pressure.
For big power cars, truel duels and long tubes are the answer, but for my car at 400rwhp, my current setup works best.
For big power cars, truel duels and long tubes are the answer, but for my car at 400rwhp, my current setup works best.
#73
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Not trying to hijack this thread or anything, but with an Eibach Pro Kit on a car would the LT's be too close to the ground?
And how hard is it of an install because I know you have to drop the K-member on the Ford 4.6 cars?
And how hard is it of an install because I know you have to drop the K-member on the Ford 4.6 cars?
#75
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Unless your packin over 400 Hp, a nice set of Mids with a Good Y Pipe will get you near the same HP as a nice set of Long Tubes.
There are many people on here with Mids that have seen around and over 20 hp from their headers with only basic bolt ons.
Yes long tubes are the best for a V-8.
Shorties are made for high revving engines and i wouldnt recommend them unless your low on cash, and since the difference is 100-200 bucks, its worth getting a nice set of mids or LT's.
There are many people on here with Mids that have seen around and over 20 hp from their headers with only basic bolt ons.
Yes long tubes are the best for a V-8.
Shorties are made for high revving engines and i wouldnt recommend them unless your low on cash, and since the difference is 100-200 bucks, its worth getting a nice set of mids or LT's.
#76
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Originally Posted by Redneck Z
Wow.....two whole people lol! Every once in a while you'll get a couple fluke dyno's, but I'd go by what's historically proven and we'll known. Longtubes will make the most power without a doubt, even on an otherwise STOCK car. Shorties won't come close. Mid-lengths can come within a few peak power, but lose out below this. If performance is what you are after, then there isn't even a question as to what size headers to go with! Longtubes for the undisputed win! ![The Judge](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)
![The Judge](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)
#77
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![Question](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif)
Originally Posted by shad0ws
Not trying to hijack this thread or anything, but with an Eibach Pro Kit on a car would the LT's be too close to the ground?
And how hard is it of an install because I know you have to drop the K-member on the Ford 4.6 cars?
And how hard is it of an install because I know you have to drop the K-member on the Ford 4.6 cars?
![The Judge](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)
![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
#79
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'd stay away from Long Tubes if your car is lowered. My car was lowered (by the previous owner). I put on some Jet Hot Longtubes + ORY and I can barely drive the car the ground clearance is so bad. ANY bump in the road, any dip, anything not level will scrape. I'm in the process of restoring the car to stock height because i'd rather not damage the headers.
Here are some pics of the clearance (it's less then 2 inches from the ground):
Here are some pics of the clearance (it's less then 2 inches from the ground):
![](http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/2295/camaro001jpgscaled4jg.jpg)
![](http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/9729/camaro036jpgscaled8ou.jpg)
![](http://img226.imageshack.us/img226/9808/camaro039jpgscaled2kv.jpg)
![](http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/8553/camaro015jpgscaled1ko.jpg)
#80
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I see no reason to buy mids. I have Longtubes and sportlines on stock 16". And unless your going 50 down a country road your okay.
To those who hear scraping with longtubes and a lowered car: Make sure its not your front air dam. Before I had headers, I lowered my car and that plastic thing scraped everywhere. Doesn't really do any damage, just sounds kinda bad. I've scraped my headers before and you'll kow when you do, it's loud and it shocks the whole car.
To those who hear scraping with longtubes and a lowered car: Make sure its not your front air dam. Before I had headers, I lowered my car and that plastic thing scraped everywhere. Doesn't really do any damage, just sounds kinda bad. I've scraped my headers before and you'll kow when you do, it's loud and it shocks the whole car.