Pacesetter Install
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 41
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Pacesetter Install I just recieved my Pacesetter long tubes and ORY. The headers have the EGR and AIR provisions. What will I need to install them? This is what I was thinking I will need.
1. 02 extensions - how long?
2. 02 simmulators
3. New gaskets and bolts
Just curious if I was right or wrong, or if I left anything off?
Thanks guys.
1. 02 extensions - how long?
2. 02 simmulators
3. New gaskets and bolts
Just curious if I was right or wrong, or if I left anything off?
Thanks guys.
02 extensions prob 24 inch, are you putting cats back on? if you are, you can't use the stock one's so you'll have to buy new ones, if you don't do the cats then you'll have to use the 02 sims
What year LT1 do you have? With my '95 I didnt need O2 sims since theres only O2 sensors before the cats. If you have a '96-'97 then you have 4 total O2 sensors so yea for simulators. Get 2 24inch extensions, they may be a little long but you can ziptie them up if you need to. I suggest fel-pro 1406 gaskets and for bolts I got stainless ARP's but I actually ended up just using the bolts that came with the Pacesetters because I liked them better and they seem better as well. Also on a side note get neverseaze and some penetrating fluid. Good luck on the install, it was a PITA for me and my dad but worth doing since you save like $400-$500.
Get gloves, and get your car high high up to do it. Spray you manifolds and make sure you have a big bar to pry the k member down. Took me and 2 older guys 12 hrs, we ran into a buch of ****.
Originally Posted by 1993CaMaRoZ28ofIdAhO
Get gloves, and get your car high high up to do it. Spray you manifolds and make sure you have a big bar to pry the k member down. Took me and 2 older guys 12 hrs, we ran into a buch of ****.
There is no reason to drop the engine when installing long tubes....
Just take out one of the motor mount studs and have a jack underneath the motor to jack one side up for extra clearance. There aren't usually any size 02 extensions, just get them and they will fit. If you have a choice, you will probably just need 12" O2 sensors. If you are looking to get better bolts/gaskets...I HIGHLY recommend ARP's header bolts. They are AMAZING. The head is small enough to fit anywhere on those headers. You can not go wrong with ARP's stainless steel header bolts...They are much more durable etc. than the crap that comes with the headers. Get some Fel-Pro gaskets too, even though the ones that come with should be fine.
Just make sure you are putting the bolts in STRAIGHT. You do not want to crossthread the head bolt hole.I don't have 1 bolt in because of that reason.
You won't need extra O2 simms either.
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Originally Posted by akrobi00
Thanks a lot guys. Ya, im not looking forward to putting them in but I do have access to a lift. So hopefully that will help out.
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* Need penetrating oil - DEFINITELY!
*Remove oil filter
*Get car as high as possible
*Remove alternator
*Remove dipstick (sucked putting back in, but worked)
*Make sure when you are puttin the driver side header in you dont bust off the coolant temp sensor! ( I did
)
*Fel Pro Gaskets work great because they allow you to bolt headers in with two bolts and just slide the gasket on with the tabs at the end.
*Change spark plugs if you want (alot easier with headers out)
*Be careful about plug wires touching headers, i kept same wires but am getting header wrap to put around headers to prevent them from burning up
*No o2 sims needed on a car that has only front 02's
*Get 24" extensions
^ not in any particular order
*Remove oil filter
*Get car as high as possible
*Remove alternator
*Remove dipstick (sucked putting back in, but worked)
*Make sure when you are puttin the driver side header in you dont bust off the coolant temp sensor! ( I did
)*Fel Pro Gaskets work great because they allow you to bolt headers in with two bolts and just slide the gasket on with the tabs at the end.
*Change spark plugs if you want (alot easier with headers out)
*Be careful about plug wires touching headers, i kept same wires but am getting header wrap to put around headers to prevent them from burning up
*No o2 sims needed on a car that has only front 02's
*Get 24" extensions
^ not in any particular order
Originally Posted by 94Z396
No need for 02 simulators if you get it tunded. Gettin it tuned turns off all your EGR codes and if u have 96-97 turns off the back to 02's. Alot easier i think. Just block the back ones off.
What year is your car? Did you get the emission's headers or race headers? If you have a 96 or 97 and emission's headers, you're probably going to need to unbolt the passenger side motor mount to slide it forward to get the header up and in. And remove the passenger side floor heat shield to make it easier. No need for OTVC wires, regular MSD wires will work fine just make sure they stay away from the header tubes.
Originally Posted by JL8Jeff
What year is your car? Did you get the emission's headers or race headers? If you have a 96 or 97 and emission's headers, you're probably going to need to unbolt the passenger side motor mount to slide it forward to get the header up and in. And remove the passenger side floor heat shield to make it easier. No need for OTVC wires, regular MSD wires will work fine just make sure they stay away from the header tubes.
Mine only took me and a friend about 6 hours, and that was with motor mounts. Even though it only took 6 hours it took 2 weeks because we did it it on 3 days over two weeks but only worked on it for about 2 - 3 hours a day.
They were a lot more simplier than I thought they would be. So many people told me it was going to nightmare but it wasn't anything close. It was a lot more easy than the headers on my old mustang.
Removing everything only took maybe an hour because I really didn't give a **** and was breaking or cutting off anything I wasn't going to reuse. Here is a list of things I removed:
Old Exhaust (duh)
Steering shaft
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Motor Mounts
Alternator
Starter
Dipstick
I cleaned everything up and then proceeded with the install doing the headers first then the motor mounts, then the starter, then the dipstick, alternator, everything else that needed.
I used copper gaskets, ARP 12pt 1" underhead length bolts, OVC wire kit from Elitesparkplugs (great kit for the price), wire looms from thunder racing, Tune from Madwolf.
I couldn't be more happier with the results. Now I can't wait until I get the Nittos mounted up and my 4.10's installed.
They were a lot more simplier than I thought they would be. So many people told me it was going to nightmare but it wasn't anything close. It was a lot more easy than the headers on my old mustang.
Removing everything only took maybe an hour because I really didn't give a **** and was breaking or cutting off anything I wasn't going to reuse. Here is a list of things I removed:
Old Exhaust (duh)
Steering shaft
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Motor Mounts
Alternator
Starter
Dipstick
I cleaned everything up and then proceeded with the install doing the headers first then the motor mounts, then the starter, then the dipstick, alternator, everything else that needed.
I used copper gaskets, ARP 12pt 1" underhead length bolts, OVC wire kit from Elitesparkplugs (great kit for the price), wire looms from thunder racing, Tune from Madwolf.
I couldn't be more happier with the results. Now I can't wait until I get the Nittos mounted up and my 4.10's installed.
No need to do anything to the k-member. Passenger side went right in from the bottom after taking the dipstick out, and just disconnected the steering shaft via one bolt to get the driver side in. It's pretty easy if you just take your time and don't think you can get it in without disconnecting that stuff first lol. If you're going to get it tuned there's no need to get sims for the rear O2 sensors. It will throw a code but won't effect performance.
I just used jack stands at the highest setting and it was enough clearance. Get a nice floor jack and you can just jack it up from the front and hold it there for a while if you want
I just used jack stands at the highest setting and it was enough clearance. Get a nice floor jack and you can just jack it up from the front and hold it there for a while if you want
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 295
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV
I installed both sides from the top. I just took off the altenator, Valve covers, and dipstick tube, and starter. The passenger side was a bit harder. I just unbolted the motor mount and jacked it up about 2-3inches. After that it just slipped in. Took me about 5hrs between 2 days. I did everything by myself in the rain. I'm glad i got a house now that has a garage.
