4l60e, I usually race 1/8 mile but am military so I will have to run 1/4 too, I think I will get a set of 28" tires for the track. I doubt I will spray on the street, I haven't had any problems with the occasional stop light showdown.

 

#36 jet on the fuel side.

 

thats in the little T part correct? What fuel pressure does that give you?

 

a problem ive seen is once the 4l60's start running mid 7's is slippage. not real noticeable but hits the rev. limiter between the shifts. my friends car went 7.17. but mine only went 7.5s. just wouldnt take as much spray. and more trans slippage. i had it rebuilt but still didnt help. i've seen several that did that. i would stick with the 3.23 gears or 3.42s. i didnt pick up any e.t. gains from a gear change. the steaper gears have a smaller diameter pinion gear and are weaker.my stock rear didnt break till it went 6.61@103. 60ft. time was 1.51 best. the car went a yr.and a half running 6's with the stock rear. i tried the stock 3.23's to 3.73's and then to 3.42's. i liked the 3.42's best. i'm running a 3.50 gear in my car now, with 28" e.t. streets.

 

yes, the t connector. as for psi. not sure, i think around 90 with the system activated.

 

Cool thanks alot. I think I will try the 3.23's on the hose first and see how it works. I run about 7.80's N/A now and have a couple more power parts to put on as well, so I think it will go 7.6-7.7's N/A and hoping for 10's in the 1/4 on the hose. My short times are usually 1.8's and the occasional 1.7, but I also have some suspension pieces here as well so those will improve. I hope my little a4 will hold up but we will just have to see.

 

Stock injectors can lock closed if they decide the pressure is too much. SVOs can handle more pressure and lock open if pushed too far. A window switch is your friend, protects the motor and tranny, set it up to shut off for the shift.

Also a stock fuel pum p might be fine to a point if it is new but these are 10 year old cars, one guy might get lucky not dropping $100 for the right pump, the next will lose his motor, suggesting someone spray dry on stock injectors and fuel pump is irresponsible at best, and spraying wet even is still a poor idea on a stock pump.

 

^ yeah I totally agree, that is the reason I went with the SVO's. I will be using a FJO controller which I think is a must for hitting a big shot on the stock pieces.

 

locking injectors is possible. although i've never seen that happen. and we've set up atleast five diff. lt1 cars this way. if you feel the car nose over the slightest bit then let off. it should burn a plug first. this has been my expirience. i've heard alot of people put down dry kits before. ive never actually seen anyone ever have problems with inj. locking. in fact ive never seen anyone run the kind of #'s we have either ,with stock cars.

 

Well lots of interaction to say the least. I found mostly what I was looking for. Looks like I'm leaning towards the stand alone. I thought I would at least discuss it before I threw down the cash. Is a fuel pump booster worth anything or is the lines the restriction, rather than the 255 lph being the bottleneck?

 

i also run a nos inline pump, when i spray.

 

from what i've read in mag's, its the fuel rails that are the restriction. not so much the line. i know the 93 fuel rails are alot more restrictive than 94-97s, so i changed mine to 94s.