Rotating Assembly
Originally Posted by 96 LT-1
How much does it typically cost to get your bottom end changed out? Just for labor not looking for parts costs. Thanks.
Any ideas what your looking to build?
At a minimum, you should have the following done:
-hot tank the block (nice n clean)
-bore & hone the cylinders (gets rid of any wear and sets them up for ring break in)
-deck the block (makes the deck flat)
-line hone the main bearings (gets rid of egg shaped mains)
-replace freeze plugs (these come out when tanking)
-replace cam bearings
-have pistons pressed on rods
-have rotating assembly balanced, including front dampener and flexplate/clutch
-check and set all bearing clearances for rods and mains
You *could*, in theory, just put a bunch of parts in a used block and go. But if you don't pay attention to clearances and balancing, the motor will very likely self destruct in short order - either through a bearing issue or by shaking itself apart.
This holds true for building a 355, 383, 396, 302, etc. Same principles apply. Extra clearancing is needed when building a stroker (it will hit the block in places, and parts of the rod could hit the cam).
It's not terribly difficult to assemble one, but it does take attention to detail and not half assing any steps.
IMO you'd be looking at about $1000 in machine work, including balancing. Add on a few hundred more for assembly, then more if you want them to install it in the car.
-hot tank the block (nice n clean)
-bore & hone the cylinders (gets rid of any wear and sets them up for ring break in)
-deck the block (makes the deck flat)
-line hone the main bearings (gets rid of egg shaped mains)
-replace freeze plugs (these come out when tanking)
-replace cam bearings
-have pistons pressed on rods
-have rotating assembly balanced, including front dampener and flexplate/clutch
-check and set all bearing clearances for rods and mains
You *could*, in theory, just put a bunch of parts in a used block and go. But if you don't pay attention to clearances and balancing, the motor will very likely self destruct in short order - either through a bearing issue or by shaking itself apart.
This holds true for building a 355, 383, 396, 302, etc. Same principles apply. Extra clearancing is needed when building a stroker (it will hit the block in places, and parts of the rod could hit the cam).
It's not terribly difficult to assemble one, but it does take attention to detail and not half assing any steps.
IMO you'd be looking at about $1000 in machine work, including balancing. Add on a few hundred more for assembly, then more if you want them to install it in the car.
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Originally Posted by Camaroholic
At a minimum, you should have the following done:
-hot tank the block (nice n clean)
-bore & hone the cylinders (gets rid of any wear and sets them up for ring break in)
-deck the block (makes the deck flat)
-line hone the main bearings (gets rid of egg shaped mains)
-replace freeze plugs (these come out when tanking)
-replace cam bearings
-have pistons pressed on rods
-have rotating assembly balanced, including front dampener and flexplate/clutch
-check and set all bearing clearances for rods and mains
You *could*, in theory, just put a bunch of parts in a used block and go. But if you don't pay attention to clearances and balancing, the motor will very likely self destruct in short order - either through a bearing issue or by shaking itself apart.
This holds true for building a 355, 383, 396, 302, etc. Same principles apply. Extra clearancing is needed when building a stroker (it will hit the block in places, and parts of the rod could hit the cam).
It's not terribly difficult to assemble one, but it does take attention to detail and not half assing any steps.
IMO you'd be looking at about $1000 in machine work, including balancing. Add on a few hundred more for assembly, then more if you want them to install it in the car.
-hot tank the block (nice n clean)
-bore & hone the cylinders (gets rid of any wear and sets them up for ring break in)
-deck the block (makes the deck flat)
-line hone the main bearings (gets rid of egg shaped mains)
-replace freeze plugs (these come out when tanking)
-replace cam bearings
-have pistons pressed on rods
-have rotating assembly balanced, including front dampener and flexplate/clutch
-check and set all bearing clearances for rods and mains
You *could*, in theory, just put a bunch of parts in a used block and go. But if you don't pay attention to clearances and balancing, the motor will very likely self destruct in short order - either through a bearing issue or by shaking itself apart.
This holds true for building a 355, 383, 396, 302, etc. Same principles apply. Extra clearancing is needed when building a stroker (it will hit the block in places, and parts of the rod could hit the cam).
It's not terribly difficult to assemble one, but it does take attention to detail and not half assing any steps.
IMO you'd be looking at about $1000 in machine work, including balancing. Add on a few hundred more for assembly, then more if you want them to install it in the car.
replacing all the bearings is a good idea, along with the freeze plugs, and a good balancing job is key in my opinion. typically you are going to look at 300-400 to assemble the motor plus parts. the balancing price depends on how much mallory (sp?) is used but i would guess in the neighborhood of 200 bucks. to get the rods and pistons pressed together should be right under 100 bucks. also make sure you get your crank and block checked which will probably run another 100 bucks or so. If you do everything on list post above (not a bad idea but not necissary either) then you will probably have more than a 1000 dollar bill. Go the cheaper route and you will save a few hundred.
Last edited by firetird; Feb 23, 2006 at 12:46 PM.
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