new stuff going on this weekend!!!!!
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Getting ARD to do the stage 2 4L60E rebuild with 3k stall converter, ls1 brake upgrade with crossdrilled/slotted/zinc rotors. calipers painted red.
i'll have pics asap! really excited, what kinda difference do you guys think I will get? quicker times ect.?
i'll have pics asap! really excited, what kinda difference do you guys think I will get? quicker times ect.?
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Should have done more research on the brakes drilled is NOT a good thing in an application like this. The outgassing used as the "reason" for doing this is not an issue with modern pads so you are reducing thermal capacity which is the second largest job of a rotor the biggest thing it does is provide a friction surface which you are also reducing. Drilled leads to cracks, those who say otherwise believe marketting over FACT.
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Originally Posted by imnotplutonium
well, we'll see. i dont think the daily driving i do will create enough force to crack the rotors. but if they do i just learned an expensive lesson
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Originally Posted by imnotplutonium
how long does it usually take for the stress cracks to start to form? this is my daily driver, no A-Xing and like once a year at the track.
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Got mine here: (will try them out & post, they are slot/dimpled only & zinc'd)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-94...QQcmdZViewItem
PowerSlot makes a decent option (just pricey):
http://thunderracing.com/catalog/?ac...&vid=4&pcid=21
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When there is HUGE demand for a BAD product companies will sell it, that is why you can buy drilled rotors. I think some Porches come with drilled but also spec a max length for cracks and they also have HUGE rotors for the size car so the rotors have a comparatively easy life even if the car is driven hard. There is a popular MYTH that cast holes are OK but thing is one of the guys from TCE has posted a REWARD for proof of a car rotor with cast in holes and nobody has come forward. If you could chamfer the holes on both sides of each cheek that would go a long ways towards slowing this, but it is next to impossible to chamfer the inside and do it cheaply enough for mass production.
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yea i see what you are saying, well i can only hope they will last a while, so basically how bad is too bad for a crack? any sign at all or larger ones? i've seen some on here that look like they arent too back but the signs are there