JimboManJones

All I'm saying is I searched your threads(that you have been posting for weeks now) and you've been having lots of problems and it seems like you haven't covered the basics, you seem to be jumping to wild conclusions, like earlier you thought your pcm was corrupt and it wasn't telling the injectors to add fuel after a certain rpm(not exactly what you said but something to that effect) before thinking about a fuel filter. And in one of your threads there were 3 broken metal pieces you found in the oil pan, you absolutely need to find out what those where, chunks of metal in the oil pan are not good. You need to start pulling the intake and heads if you don't want to take it to a shop(which I really think you need to do, this seems like you need a pros help). At the very least do a compression check.

It doesn't sound like an o2 problem to me though, but get the code scanned(it could be throwing a code for the o2 sensors, after thats what all these electronics are for!), or you are obd1 right? I know on my old car(1987 formula) that was obd1 I was albe to manually pull codes with a hair pin on the connector and flashing the SES light. Find out what the code is. To me though, I'd say vaccum leak, and if you'd rather not get the code scanned get a can of carb cleaner and go to town, spray some vaccum lines and if the idle changes, you've found the source. Also, could be clogged injectors, if your fuel filter was clogged, then some of the stuff possibly could've gotten past the filter.

And check all your wires and pull a plug or two(well you should be pulling all 8 and doing a compression check ), clean the air filter, check the coil wire, get it in the dark and see if wires are arcing.

JimboManJones

double post

djkyle25

HAHA stop analyzing me and help me with my car please i dont know where yall get this idea that im going at this wildly, i have the WHOLE thick repair book and i have come home from school EVERY night for 2-3 weeks and worked till midnight checked a bunch of stuff each night, i am very thourough, i take my time making sure to check eerything and install everything right, i throw ideas around in here only to hope it intices some feedback on wut my problem could be, i have fixed the opti problem i believe and let me makes ANOTHER list of all i have checked and replaced to show you how i am USING A DAMN FINE TOOTH COMB!!!

i have checked:
EVERY fuel injector and electricals to them,
egr valve
tps
iat
ignition module
coil
spark plugs
plug wires
maf
fuel pressure
replaced fuel filter
checked all vaccumm hoses, replaced a few
IAC
replaced timing set gaskets, oil pan gasket, and water pump along with all hoses and gaskets

one other thing, i replaced both of the strong gaskets on the timing cover that are circles and hard to get in on top as well, but for some reason i have a few oil drips on the bottom of my opti, all dry on top but on bottom of opti theres a few spots??? anyone know wut could be leaking to cause this?? front main right behind opti or not? cause i didnt replace that????
i am going to check 02's tonight as well as get codes ran

i also replaced all timing

MrBill97396

iTrader: (10)

It is hard to help someone over the internet when it seems you need to have this thing looked at by a pro. With that out of the way, just tear the whole motor down from intake to oil pan and check or replace everything you can afford. Your main concern should be finding out where the hell those pieces of metal came from, you should give a damn about nothing else but to find out where block failure may be accuring. Good Luck man your sinking more time into this than any normal person would, I have to say your a determined man. And LT1's are known for the leaking issue.

djkyle25

ha! finally someone that sees im not just throwin ideas and being careless! THANK U mr bill! and its my daily driver that is why tearing down the whole thing is out of the question UNTIL i have totally checked EVERYTHING on the outside, thats why im workin on gettin this WINALDL program workin to hook my car and READ every sensor and knock and spark and such, i think i may get it to work tonight

JimboManJones

I am trying to help you, we all are, but you have internal motor damage(metal chunks don't appear in the oil pan for no reason, something broke off in there, somethings probably out of balance, could explain the problems) so you need to get a 200$ beater take your car off the road and pull the motor and tear it down and see whats broken, or better yet, have it looked at by a pro.

LS1tech is a rough crowd man, you can't be all about us giving you crap, good luck, let me know when you figure out the problem, I'm out of ideas.

djkyle25

ok so i finally got my car (95 z28) hooked up to the labtop tonight, ive been battling this car running ruff, fluttering problem for a while new, i got rid of the SES light when i found the problem it threw for my egr. I watch the TESTMASTER program from TTS( AMAZING) as my dad drove it and heres a few things i noticed, please reply if you notice nething! please!

EGR DC had 0 except for when it flutters really bad(2500 rpms or less from a dead stop) (vaccumm leak???? or faulty EGR????)

CCP DC always showed up with yellow behind it and seemed to change with rpms'

NO knock except in the highest rpms i would get like 1500 per second

TPS % never went above 54% the whole time even when we gunned it

O2 sensors seemed to jump all over, mainly between 800-30 though, but always both left and right at same time

Spark Advace was 20 at idle and 40 under acceleration, only time we got retard was same as when we got knock

kept gettin a yellow fuel trim cell number that switched between a few different numbers, i remember seein 17 and 3

ANY input would be GREAT for it is my daily driver and i need to run right and reliable!

also if any one knows bout TTS Testmaster and would want to help a fellow F-Body man out i can send you the .UNI file of our test run thanks alot yall

djkyle25

o and thats DATAMASTER NOT testmaster

djkyle25

ne one know bout readings???

MrBill97396

iTrader: (10)

Try getting info under the diagnostics forum, there is some wise people in there.

djkyle25

Alirght guys, everything from PCM is pretty much good!!!, so my problems is something else, like injectors, opti, fuel pump or something??? it gets worse as it heats up, it idle surges, in bogs/hesitates in lower rpms, in higher rpms it is better, but not great?

TurboZ28

What about those chunks of metal in your oil pan? Usually thats bad...

LTSpeed

Since it's likely you've busted the thrust key on your cam, it's really not all that important what else is wrong with your motor. It won't be but another couple hundred miles before you spin weld your cam to your block and blow the whole thing up.

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

Dude, just ignore these pesky naysayers! They're just looking for trouble. Big chunks of metal aren't bad - the whole motor's made of metal and what's a chunk, maybe 1% of the total? No worries. That means it's 99% perfect!

Drive it like you stole it!



Then fix it like you seized it!

I wish there was a smiley for someone acting like an ostrich and sticking their head in the sand...

Jim

Future posts about this car:

"I have lots of oil in my driveway and I can see a connecting rod. Is that bad? Can I use JB Weld to fix it?"

"I was driving, trying to blow out the carbon that has obviously been causing my problems, and I heard a thump, and then there was a big cloud of smoke. Now I can't find my oil pan at all. Please help?"

"I knew that damn Opti was causing me trouble - now it blew up through the hood. Maybe I need some Slick 50???"