Installing Long Tubes this weekend, questions
Installing Long Tubes this weekend, questions Hey guys, took off the shorties and getting ready to install pacesetter long tubes and their Y pipe.
Have the spark plugs/wires/headers off the car
besides the steering column what comes off, should i lift up my motor, i just wanna get it ready for the weekend so i can just put em on and put the rest of the car back on.
Have the spark plugs/wires/headers off the car
besides the steering column what comes off, should i lift up my motor, i just wanna get it ready for the weekend so i can just put em on and put the rest of the car back on.
You won't need to take off the steering column if you get Jet Hots. They have a seperate tube that goes around it. You may need to jack up your passenger side of the motor for better clearance, but def. take out that starter.
pacesetter install: from top of motor.
take out engine mount bolt on passanger side.
take off valve covers.
remove stearing shaft.
remove old headers/manifolds
jack up center of motor from oil pan. put 2x4 or piece of wood on the jack to protect oil pan.
the pass side should come up, slide header in from the top of engine. put plugs in and tighted header.
drop jack.
slide in driveside header and tighten it up.
put back on everything removed and enjoy.
jfyi: GET O2 EXTENTION WIRES THE 18" WIRES. THE CUT AND CRIMP METHOD WILL RESULT IN YOU BUYING ALOT OF O2 SENSORS.
take out engine mount bolt on passanger side.
take off valve covers.
remove stearing shaft.
remove old headers/manifolds
jack up center of motor from oil pan. put 2x4 or piece of wood on the jack to protect oil pan.
the pass side should come up, slide header in from the top of engine. put plugs in and tighted header.
drop jack.
slide in driveside header and tighten it up.
put back on everything removed and enjoy.
jfyi: GET O2 EXTENTION WIRES THE 18" WIRES. THE CUT AND CRIMP METHOD WILL RESULT IN YOU BUYING ALOT OF O2 SENSORS.
Are you installing emission's longtubes or race headers? The emission's ones are much more difficult due to the AIR and EGR ports on the passenger side. As for the driver's side, you just need to unbolt the steering shaft where it connects to the R&P and slide it up and off for the extra clearance. You might not even need to do that, but it's only 1 bolt and will make things a lot easier. For the passenger side I removed the starter, unbolted the motor mount and replaced the bushings and still had to jack the engine up with the motor mount rotated out of the way to get the header in. There is no way to get the header in from the top with an emission's header. The EGR hits the firewall and you're stuck. Oh yeah, get ready to curse a lot so have some beer handy when you need to take a break!
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Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, VA
Remove the starter, remove the oil filter, and.....
While the front of the car is suspended in air by jackstands, take your jack and jack up the k-member until the car has just cleared the jackstands... there are three bolts on each side of the car that hold the k-member up.... remove the middle and front bolts (first two on each side looking at the car from the front)... then loosen the third bolt on each side so only about 1/4th of the bolts threads are threaded in.... then... lower the jack so the car sits back down on the jackstands.... DO THIS SLOWLY... this will lower the engine and should provide you with just enough room to slide the headers in.... iv done this every single time when installing headers for friends and iv never had a problem with getting them in...
While the front of the car is suspended in air by jackstands, take your jack and jack up the k-member until the car has just cleared the jackstands... there are three bolts on each side of the car that hold the k-member up.... remove the middle and front bolts (first two on each side looking at the car from the front)... then loosen the third bolt on each side so only about 1/4th of the bolts threads are threaded in.... then... lower the jack so the car sits back down on the jackstands.... DO THIS SLOWLY... this will lower the engine and should provide you with just enough room to slide the headers in.... iv done this every single time when installing headers for friends and iv never had a problem with getting them in...
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles, CA
Drop the EGR, AIR, AC and the slide right in. I had to use a block on my jack to get the car up heigh enough for the passenger side though. No big deal.
I thought the worst part was getting the manifolds off, but if you already have done shorties you should be fine.
I thought the worst part was getting the manifolds off, but if you already have done shorties you should be fine.
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, VA
Originally Posted by daniel6718
one fastz...sounds dangerous
Nah, not dangerous... i should also mention that its always a good idea to keep the jack or a jackstand under the k-member for safty...
Don't use the bolts or the gaskets that come with the headers. Get some Stage 8 bolts and some decent gaskets. The headers will be very close to the floorboard on at least one side. Your motor may rotate under power and cause the header to hit the floorboard which will drive you crazy. I replaced my motor mounts with stiffer Prothane mounts to fix this. You will need extension for your O2s or you can splice them and add length. I would go ahead and replace your spark plugs at the same time and possibly wires.
I only removed the oil filter, short steering shaft, starter and alternator. Loosening Kmember bolts was not necessary for me.
I only removed the oil filter, short steering shaft, starter and alternator. Loosening Kmember bolts was not necessary for me.
check out this page its pretty good and covers almost everything, its not for pacesetters but its for FLPs but check it out it might give you ideas and has lots of pictures.
http://www.projectgangreen.com/flp2win.htm
http://www.projectgangreen.com/flp2win.htm
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, VA
Originally Posted by Captainofiron
check out this page its pretty good and covers almost everything, its not for pacesetters but its for FLPs but check it out it might give you ideas and has lots of pictures.
http://www.projectgangreen.com/flp2win.htm
http://www.projectgangreen.com/flp2win.htm
But anyway, whatever you do... DO NOT get stage 8 locking header bolts... especially if you have an lt1... otherwise... best of luck getting all those locks on... gotta love how close the lt1 header bolts are to the exhaust pipes...
I've got the Stage 8 bolts on my LT1. It just takes a little grinding down on a couple of the clips, no big deal compared to getting the actual headers installed. I've had to remove the headers to change gaskets too. I don't think the Breslin split lock would be much better because it doesn't look like you would be able to get the allen wrench on a couple because of the header tubes.
I use to have a write up on the FLP install but don't know where it went. lol. Anyway, I didn't have to jack up the motor or anything. A little wiggling and they slipped right in.
As far as the bang on the floorboard, that is very common and it is a complete PITA. The fix, I took some very high temp tubing, cut it so that it could lie flat, then put two pieces on top of each other in between the floorboard and the pipe. Problem solved. You might need to use a little hairspray just to keep it a little sticky and it doesn't rattle out but mine worked fine just by wedging down the pipe and sliding the tubing in there.
As far as the bang on the floorboard, that is very common and it is a complete PITA. The fix, I took some very high temp tubing, cut it so that it could lie flat, then put two pieces on top of each other in between the floorboard and the pipe. Problem solved. You might need to use a little hairspray just to keep it a little sticky and it doesn't rattle out but mine worked fine just by wedging down the pipe and sliding the tubing in there.
yea I didnt have to jack up the motor either, I just had to slide them in side ways and twist and they went right in.
And Stage 8 bolts are awesome and work like magic. They are a pain to get in though and I wouldnt recommend it to any one who is easily frustrated or doesnt have higher automotive skills
And Stage 8 bolts are awesome and work like magic. They are a pain to get in though and I wouldnt recommend it to any one who is easily frustrated or doesnt have higher automotive skills