Hello I am new and in need of advice.
Originally Posted by Honda Hunter
86 the sfc's, and sway bars then i would agree. dont need those go fast and beat a LS1. If anything I'd say remove the sway bar when at the track.
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From: The beautiful Kingdom of Bahrain
If you do a search on SFC's youll see why he doesnt need them anytime soon. Swaybars, I agree with you but he didnt say he wanted to beat a LS1 at autoXing. Straight line they wont be needed.
Originally Posted by Honda Hunter
If you do a search on SFC's youll see why he doesnt need them anytime soon.
Originally Posted by infinitebird
No, if you do a search you will see there are two camps on this. One says that SFCs help to stiffen the chassis and improve all around handling and feel of the car. The other says that they make no noticeable difference, are a useless mod, and are highly overrated. I happen to be in the first group. No problem though, I'm not going to argue about it.
My SFC's saved my car...literally would have been totalled without them. I love em. I don't know how they are useless, there is enough chasis flex to buckle the rear quarter panels if you have decent power. (doesn't take that much)
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No need to argue, it's been beat to death. I read the comments made by the professianals and I respect thier opinion. Notice I still got them anyway just for piece of of. I figured they couldnt hurt. I just dont reccomend them as a first mod. There are other things that make a greater impact. Thats where the money should go first.
Originally Posted by Honda Hunter
No need to argue, it's been beat to death. I read the comments made by the professianals and I respect thier opinion. Notice I still got them anyway just for piece of of. I figured they couldnt hurt. I just dont reccomend them as a first mod. There are other things that make a greater impact. Thats where the money should go first.
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Originally Posted by Honda Hunter
search the handling section. all the big names say theyre worthless.
Weird all the serious cars I know have them. I will have to read up on that later. No matter what they say I still love mine. I agree they don't need to be a very first mod, but if you are going to put down any power they should be there. I have seen alot of cars without them flex and twist and knock body panels out of alignment or dent them from a hard hook.
I had the same decision... everyone was telling me get the LS1 this and that... I am gonna go with the LT1 for a few reasons. Looks, hands down (at least IMO). Sound, I prefer LT1, power delivery, I like the LT1. Yea yea I know stock for stock, LS1 is a far better motor, less problem areas, etc... I drove my friend's LS1 around for a day and it was fast, no doubt (2k2 WS6 M6), but it just didn't feel as raw (at least to me), as my old LT1. Take that with a grain of salt, but it's just my opinion. Good luck.
-J
-J
Originally Posted by Camaroguy22
My SFC's saved my car...literally would have been totalled without them. I love em. I don't know how they are useless, there is enough chasis flex to buckle the rear quarter panels if you have decent power. (doesn't take that much)
Originally Posted by 97SUPERFORMY
IF you had 7,500 left over after a sell, what would you do IN ORDER to it with 7,500 dollars, and IT BE TOTALLY STREETABLE(wont EVER see a dragstrip unless im doing a run for my ET's) So has to pass emissions(a missing cat i dont care about) so if one of you guys got some time on your hands give me some advice. this is what im thinking about doing so far...(GAS MILEAGE IS NOT A FACTOR)
Originally Posted by Honda Hunter
For example, someone said a 12 bolt? Lets be serious. A auto car can make alot more power before needing one,
Originally Posted by Camaroguy22
Especially since the original poster said he never plans on taking it to the track, hence probably not beating the hell out of it from the hole on a consistent basis.
A larger concern of mine would be the 4L60E vs the ten bolt on his automatic car. After that a nice cold air kit, and possibly an LE2 package. You do not need to spend your money on such things as a torque arm or 500$ towards a 52 mm throttle body as another member said. Get a torque converter.
Edit - the original poster does deserve some props for coming on here with a decent clue as to what he should do and he didn't even mention the LT4 conversion
Originally Posted by 97SUPERFORMY
(wont EVER see a dragstrip >>>>unless<<<< im doing a run for my ET's)
Edit - the original poster does deserve some props for coming on here with a decent clue as to what he should do and he didn't even mention the LT4 conversion
If you want the most reliable car you need to start with the weak points and build from there. But the car would not be much fun with a couple of bolt ons and a TH400 and a 9", that is why I went with a mild cam only setup. Waht I recommended would give an all around performer with a SOLID suspension and is ready for almost anything you can throw at it.
This plus a 150 shot would run low 11's...the NX setup would only be another $5-1000
Originally Posted by Chopstix
The reason I started with the 12 bolt is it is one of the 2 weakest links in a stock A4 F-body...and it is more expensive to replace after he spends his initial money. I made the mistake of having way to much motor for my drivetrain...and it cost me almost 2 years of not being able to enjoy the car I had built, because I was worried about the 10 bolt.
A stock cube cam only auto is probably not going to break the 10 bolt, especially if it never sees the track (and therefore will probably be run with street tires).
Originally Posted by infinitebird
Well you have a 396 motor though.
A stock cube cam only auto is probably not going to break the 10 bolt, especially if it never sees the track (and therefore will probably be run with street tires).
A stock cube cam only auto is probably not going to break the 10 bolt, especially if it never sees the track (and therefore will probably be run with street tires).
Originally Posted by infinitebird
Well you have a 396 motor though.
A stock cube cam only auto is probably not going to break the 10 bolt, especially if it never sees the track (and therefore will probably be run with street tires).
A stock cube cam only auto is probably not going to break the 10 bolt, especially if it never sees the track (and therefore will probably be run with street tires).
but I used to have a mild H/C stock botom end that broke 3 10 bolts
Originally Posted by Chopstix
but I used to have a mild H/C stock botom end that broke 3 10 bolts
Originally Posted by infinitebird
(will probably be run with street tires).
Originally Posted by 97SUPERFORMY
i am going to put new shoes on her today, hopefully nitto's!
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when i race, were street racing(you can go ahead and flame now) but they closed the 1/4 track down here! we do 20 rolls, we dont go out of the hole! this is my plan you guys can grade it!
1. Cold Air(K&N)
2. A Cutout(Screw emissions, the guy who did my cutout said he would pass me(he has a license to do so) if i referred my buds to him)
3. SFC's, LCA's, TQ ARM
4. New Bilstein Shocks / Struts
5. Trans Rebuild With Stage 1 shift kit
6. 3000 Stall
7. LE2 package
Here are some questions,
1. will i need a tack since i can rev to 6,500?
2. is the LE2 kit NITROUS friendly?
3. SHould i buy shorties instead of stock manifold? i dont want LT's
I've already purchased and installed the, CAI, Cutout, SFC's,LCA's,and the TQ arms, ive ordered the shocks/struts, and after i get all that its down to the local tranny shop for the rebuild, shift kit and the 3000! after that im going to send the heads to Lloyd and when i get those on, them BONE STOCK LS1's are going down! should be a month before i have it all done!
My next mods after all this is the new 12 bolt(4.10) and an additional 100 shot!
1. Cold Air(K&N)
2. A Cutout(Screw emissions, the guy who did my cutout said he would pass me(he has a license to do so) if i referred my buds to him)
3. SFC's, LCA's, TQ ARM
4. New Bilstein Shocks / Struts
5. Trans Rebuild With Stage 1 shift kit
6. 3000 Stall
7. LE2 package
Here are some questions,
1. will i need a tack since i can rev to 6,500?
2. is the LE2 kit NITROUS friendly?
3. SHould i buy shorties instead of stock manifold? i dont want LT's
I've already purchased and installed the, CAI, Cutout, SFC's,LCA's,and the TQ arms, ive ordered the shocks/struts, and after i get all that its down to the local tranny shop for the rebuild, shift kit and the 3000! after that im going to send the heads to Lloyd and when i get those on, them BONE STOCK LS1's are going down! should be a month before i have it all done!
My next mods after all this is the new 12 bolt(4.10) and an additional 100 shot!
Last edited by 97SUPERFORMY; Jun 2, 2006 at 01:08 AM.
