xxxtreme36

iTrader: (4)

so then what would it be, VATS???? any ways to make this go away without replacing it

LTSpeed

Do you have a Security Light on?

benz-ta

my lights come on. but my fuel prime stoped working.. so i by passed that since i have a a1000 pump... the car starts runs for few mins and shuts off...sometimes it starts drive it for a few mins and shuts off out of nowhere... then i cant restart it again... car turns over but wont fire up... i turn the key to on and off doors unlock and lock.. hatch opens... its crazy ****... im thinking its the vats.. will check it out tomorrow...

94strokedz

iTrader: (1)

Just had the exact problem you described on the first thread. I replaced the ignition switching unit on the top of the steering column way under the dash. This is one hell of a fun job. Took me about 6 to 8 hours including changing the key cylinder. You have to undo all of the wiring into the steering column(including the airbag, be careful with this), pull the 3 bolts holding the column to the firewall, pull the 2 bolts holding the column up, and basically lay the steering wheel on the seat, now you can see the unit. To tell if you are looking at it, follow the two rods on the left of the steering column(one is attached to the key, the other to the high beam switch) down directly into the unit. If you are not very patient and good with your hands, I wouldn't even think of trying to change this unit. Good luck.

94strokedz

iTrader: (1)

By the way, my ignition switch failure would still occasionally start the car, only for a few seconds, if that. It would also usually power the fuel pump, but quickly die when power is sent to the starter. UYsually, with the turn of the key, the dash would go out totally, only visible power in the car was the interior lights. I would bet any amount of money that it is your ignition switch. Pull the black plastic piece under your dash near the drivers feet and smell as far back on the steering column as you can, I bet you will smell burnt electrical. My switching unit was TOTALLY fried on the inside, the traces were worn completely through from the switching unit moving back and forth for 113,000 miles. $32.78 from Napa, they had it next day.

94strokedz

iTrader: (1)

I completely disagree, just fixed mine about 23 hours ago, with his identical problem. This is just like any other electrical problem, when the internal traces are blown out or shorted together, and you start sending power to the wrong places, just about anything can happen, especially on a car when it is generally relatively high current, especiallt in the ignition circuit where the traces are an eighth of an inch around.

Dunn

iTrader: (20)

Holy old post, I know, but I got a major problem.

My buddy has a car that will be prone to cutting off intermittently while driving, or when trying to crank.

He will try to turn it over multiple times, and it wont crank...turn key again, and the locks and trunk pop open.

try a third time, and the battery will show no voltage, and the mileage wont show, anyone got a clue whats going on, does he need another Key cylinder and wires?